Please recommend a drywall cutout tool

[David Hostetler]

I just use a regular drywall saw. Quick, easy, and the dust produced doesn't jam up and expensive power tool...

[Albert T. Tappman]

I do have a FMM but would prefer a rotary. I get dizzy looking at all the Dremel and Rotozip options...not sure which would be right. Thanks!

I recently bought the $150 Rotozip kit that includes the attachment for mounting a small circular saw blade. I have a Dremel, but they just aren't powerful enough to cut drywall, in my opinion. I also bought the overpriced dust collection attachment for the Rotozip. With that, I didn't have any trouble with dust. I used it to cut around the perimeter of a tub surround, and cut some holes for electrical boxes. I found it easy enough to use, and I'm satisfied with it. I didn't give a second thought to buying a gimmicky Binford-like power tool when a $6 drywall saw works just as well, because at the time I had no idea there was such a thing as a jab saw snob. Maybe from now on when I think of my Rotozip I'll have to suck my thumb until the feelings of inferiority pass.

The saw blade attachment, on the other hand, is completely worthless. I tried to cut a piece of 1/4" plywood with it, because I was at somebody else's house and didn't have any other tool to use. It's almost impossible to cut a straight line with the thing, and it burned the plywood pretty badly. If I had it to do over again, I'd just get the Rotozip without the dumb saw blade attachment. There's an entry-level model for $69 that gets bad reviews, so I'd go with the more powerful model that sells for $99 I think. And get the crummy little dust collection kit, even though you have to pay $30 for 50 cents worth of plastic.

[Larry Edgerton]

The saw blade attachment, on the other hand, is completely worthless. .

I agree that the saw blade is useless, but throw a cutoff wheel in there and it is a great cutoff tool and small hand grinder in a pinch. Just thought inquiring minds should know......

Larry

[David Larsen]

I am kinda old-school with some of this stuff. Kinda like shingling many roofs by hand before getting an air nailer. yes, I wouldn't do a roof without air if I can help it.

Sheetrock. Yes, many sheets cut with a jab saw. If a small project, then get the jab saw and get r done. I have a couple of the rotozip drywall tools and after using them I would recommend them for future projects. Quick and fast. A little dust never hurt anyone. Less dust than sanding anyways.

But for what you are considering, just use a utility knife and a jab saw and a good t-square and you will do just fine.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Get a drywall T-square if you're going to work with full sheets (about $12 to $15).

Drywall T's are good for laying out the cuts.
I vastly prefer to use one of those clamp and cut guides to use for scoring.
It locks solidly and doesn't move plus, it sits up higher which keeps my off hand and thumb out of the way of the utility knife if (more like when) the blade rides up on the guide.

I was just scoring and cutting some vinyl floor tile the other day and cursing myself for leaving the clamp and cut @ home. All I could think aanout while scoring the tile was how bad it was going to hurt when the blade rode up on the straight edge and then sliced across my thumb.

[Tony Zaffuto]

You'll find if you follow a steel square with a utility knife, you'll lessen the chance of the blade riding up on the edge. Happens easily when you're scoring against aluminum, if you're not careful. Helps to have a very sharp knife (in two ways: follows the blade better and if it does cut you, it leaves a cleaner cut!!!).

[Jeff Connelly]

Old thread, I realize, but I was Googling for cutout tools and happened upon this. Thought I would add a little of my opinion for future searchers.

First tools, then applications:

Utility knife: the obvious choice for most of your straight cuts, no dust, no kerf
Jab saw: good handheld control, dusty, wide kerf
Rotary: good depth control, requires power, loud, dusty, wide kerf
Multitool: decent depth control, requires power, loud, medium dust, medium kerf

So, take the advantages of each and apply.

- cutting drywall before installing, single straight cuts. Obviously the knife.

- cutting drywall after installing, straight cuts at door edges. The knife, then snap off along frame

- cutting drywall after installing, straight cuts but angled at door and window corners. Jab saw using the frame as a guide for first cut, then the knife for the second cut and snapping off.

- cutting around round boxes after installing. This is where the rotary shines. The spinning tool pulls the blade left. Therefore, when cutting along the outside of a box or frame, move counterclockwise. When cutting along the inside of a box or frame, move clockwise.

- cutting square electrical boxes before or after installing. Before - jab saw or multitool. After - rotary saw or jab saw. Rotary follows metal boxes well, but will sometimes cut into plastic boxes.

- removing drywall to patch - rotary is not good at making straight lines freehand, because it pulls. Rotaries like a frame to hold against. A jab saw if you have to follow along the outside edge of a stud, a jab saw or multitool if you just have a line to follow. Multitools make very clean lines with less dust than jab saws. Also, multitools are required when you don't know what's behind the drywall, or if there is no room behind the drywall. You don't want to cut plumbing or electrical, or you want to cut directly along a stud line (multitool much better than knife here.)

[Mark Bolton]

- After - rotary saw or jab saw. Rotary follows metal boxes well, but will sometimes cut into plastic boxes.

How can you cut any box after the board is hung with a jab saw? You may be able to cut three sides on a rectanglar/square box (or 70% of a round) with the jab but there is no way to cut the side/portion thats against the stud/rafter/joist? Your stroke is so short its a nightmare.

The only time a rotary is a problem with a plastic box is if the operator stalls, or gets lost in the cut. Or possibly sticks 2" of bit through the board. Most commonly they melt through the side of the box.

The dust with a router is generally minimal with regards to boxes because the bit (down spiral) puts all the dust behind the board. Of course if you use one on a door your putting it in the room. Windows too.

Drywall is dusty.. there is no way to avoid it. Its just a sucky job.

[Chris Padilla]

I use a Rotozip. Yeah, it's messy but I think it is kind of fun zipping out outlets following the mud ring.