How to level slightly uneven concrete floor

[Todd Brewer]

Too many tools wobble so it has to be the floor. I do not look forward to putting down a coating.

[phil harold]

convert your mobile tools to three point contact
problem solved

[Lee Schierer]

Instead of feathering, why not add 1/4" or so more tot he leveling material and not have to worry about feather thin spots spalling off.

My understanding is that if you use the correct clean up and bonding agent that the leveling compounds with work very well.

[Todd Brewer]

Three point tools occured to me but not always a good solution. I don;t want to add too much overall thickness if I can help it.

I need to find a local supplier of coatings. Not a Home Depot or Lowes. Otherwise I will live with what I have. It's not that bad, but if I could improve it without too much hassle I would.

[Don Jarvie]

How out is out? You haven't stated how unlevel it is, 1/8", 1/4" or larger. Is it high in the middle and lower to the sides, wavy, etc.

If its only off by 1/8" or so try some floor leveler and see what happens. If it cracks then you need to consider a wood floor. The wood floor will work fine with the floor leveler since it will spread the force across the floor and not just on 1 area where the machine is.

I have a 20x20 shop and my wood floor cost 700.00 or so and that was 3/4 OSB, pressure treated sleepers, insultation, plastic, screws and paint. I mainly did it for insulation but my back has felt better also.

[Todd Brewer]

How out is out? You haven't stated how unlevel it is, 1/8", 1/4" or larger. Is it high in the middle and lower to the sides, wavy, etc.

If its only off by 1/8" or so try some floor leveler and see what happens. If it cracks then you need to consider a wood floor. The wood floor will work fine with the floor leveler since it will spread the force across the floor and not just on 1 area where the machine is.

I have a 20x20 shop and my wood floor cost 700.00 or so and that was 3/4 OSB, pressure treated sleepers, insultation, plastic, screws and paint. I mainly did it for insulation but my back has felt better also.

It's not that bad, just enough that four legged stands/tables wobble. Not sure I want to put down a wood floor. However, I should give it some thought. I haven't built any cabinets yet so now is the time to do it. I'd have to have a slope or slight step down at doorways though.

I need an auto-leveling product that can tolerate 1/8" thickness or so. I would think epoxy based would hold up the best if it can tolerate the variation in thickness (paint-thin to 1/8" or so, maybe a hair thicker).

[Todd Brewer]

Instead of feathering, why not add 1/4" or so more tot he leveling material and not have to worry about feather thin spots spalling off.

My understanding is that if you use the correct clean up and bonding agent that the leveling compounds with work very well.

Lee, good point. I can tolerate 1/4" or so. I just need to find the time to find the correct product.

[ian maybury]

One reason not to go extra depth is that the stuff costs a fortune. That said it is the best way to get a nice flat and seamless looking floor. Don't forget as I said before though that while it'd be hidden in this case it's very improtant to do the work needed to get a good bond. i.e. proper cleaning, dust removal and priming.

[Todd Burch]

So, this thread begs the question... how do you contract for a "flat, level" concrete floor in the first place? Can this be written into a contract? Should a commercial contractor be used instead? What's reasonable for non-flat or wavy? My dad's house is terrible - he used a budget crew. Had to buy a demolition hammer to knock off high spots before we laid tile.

[Jamie Buxton]

So, this thread begs the question... how do you contract for a "flat, level" concrete floor in the first place? Can this be written into a contract? Should a commercial contractor be used instead? What's reasonable for non-flat or wavy? My dad's house is terrible - he used a budget crew. Had to buy a demolition hammer to knock off high spots before we laid tile.

I've wondered about that too. Clearly it is possible to lay a flat concrete floor. Nearly every commercial or industrial building built in this area in the last forty years has a concrete floor. They're flat. Some of them have multiple stories, all with flat concrete floors. Not only are the floors flat, but they generally have no expansion joints and no cracks, yet can be hundreds of feet in extent. I don't know how they do that either.

[Don Jarvie]

So, this thread begs the question... how do you contract for a "flat, level" concrete floor in the first place? Can this be written into a contract? Should a commercial contractor be used instead? What's reasonable for non-flat or wavy? My dad's house is terrible - he used a budget crew. Had to buy a demolition hammer to knock off high spots before we laid tile.

You hire real cement guys who do this all day.

If you are looking for a leveler to basically cover the whole floor and make it level then you have to buy a good brand that won't crack at the paper thin areas.

[phil harold]

So, this thread begs the question... how do you contract for a "flat, level" concrete floor in the first place? Can this be written into a contract? Should a commercial contractor be used instead? What's reasonable for non-flat or wavy? My dad's house is terrible - he used a budget crew. Had to buy a demolition hammer to knock off high spots before we laid tile.

Flatness and levelness can be specified in the contract
an example would be 1/8" in 10'

many contracts for flatwork in residential are not specific on flatness as where commercial jobs get very specific, and measurements are made withing 48 hours of placement

[Todd Brewer]

So, this thread begs the question... how do you contract for a "flat, level" concrete floor in the first place? Can this be written into a contract? Should a commercial contractor be used instead? What's reasonable for non-flat or wavy? My dad's house is terrible - he used a budget crew. Had to buy a demolition hammer to knock off high spots before we laid tile.

I've wondered about that too. Clearly it is possible to lay a flat concrete floor. Nearly every commercial or industrial building built in this area in the last forty years has a concrete floor. They're flat. Some of them have multiple stories, all with flat concrete floors. Not only are the floors flat, but they generally have no expansion joints and no cracks, yet can be hundreds of feet in extent. I don't know how they do that either.

In hind sight, I wish I had know to insist top quality concrete installers. I had no idea I would get "average" results. I say average because it isn't horrible, but I wish it were better. Every time I go into Home Depot or Lowe's I wonder why their floors don't crack, and I admire how flat they are, or at least how flat they appear to be (I haven't moved any four legged equipment around at either store, LOL).

[Tim Howell]

I have the same problem. So I used 1/2' threaded rod, put a foot on one end and 2 nuts on the other locked together. I use my drill set on low clutch to set them and it all hold fine. I ran the threaded rod through long threaded couplings or unuon what the correct name is and mount them to the frame. Keep them as close to the floor as you can and still get moving clearance. They are simuliar to these. pic- You could try floor locks too. I have one on my rollaway from the old aircraft mechanic days. photos from here - http://cplauman.thomasnet.com/category/caster-accessories

[Fred Belknap]

I admire how flat they are, or at least how flat they appear to be (I haven't moved any four legged equipment around at either store, LOL).

You might be surprised how out of level they are. When the finishers use the motor driven trowel machines the floor usually end up much leveler and smoother but they don't work miracles.