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Thread: Bar and Wainscoting made from QSWO

  1. #1

    Bar and Wainscoting made from QSWO

    Finally finished up the bar and wainscot. Eventually he will want an entertainment center for the TV and audio equip.

    Some pics of the Bar. Really tough shooting because of the Semi Gloss, shiny. Nearly full fill QSWO. Bartop and back counter top is full fill and gloss, everything else is semi gloss.




















  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Chattanooga, TN
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    Lovely wood and craftsmanship. I like it.

    Paul

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Seattle area , Duvall
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    Nice work!I can see a lot went into planning that all out and it was a lot of work. Looks clean!

  4. #4
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    please tell me that you're a professional

  5. #5
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    Jun 2007
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    Newburyport MA
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    Excellent work, inspiring.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    walnut creek, california
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    nvm just googled LRG woodcrafting... now i can go on with my day lol

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by frank shic View Post
    please tell me that you're a professional
    Did all this in my 10x8 shed out back using only a tablesaw, beltsander and a router

    Yes, yes. This is what I do for my living. I have a 2600 sq ft shop and a spray area.

  8. #8
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    May 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    Did all this in my 10x8 shed out back using only a tablesaw, beltsander and a router

    Yes, yes. This is what I do for my living. I have a 2600 sq ft shop and a spray area.
    i would've gone home and thrown all my tools in the trash - except that festool domino!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Leo....gorgeous work! What was your finishing regimen on those?
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Leo....gorgeous work! What was your finishing regimen on those?
    Just what I was going to ask.
    I'll be finishing some QSWO in the next week or two. I like the color you achieved.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  11. #11
    I came up with a pretty neat way to fasten the wainscoting to the pilasters and each other and the wall without using much more than 6 screws. Each of the pilasters has a 3/4" plywood strip on the back the correct width. It has 6 biscuit slots, 3 on each side which mate with 3 slots on the panels. These are at the correct depth so that the pilasters slip over the panels snugly. Then I put biscuit slots on the bottom of the panel and in the floor referencing off the wall. Then everything slips together and you put a couple of screws in the very top of the panel into the wall studs. Those screws then get covered with the undercap molding.

    That way there are no fasteners showing on the paneling and the only one in there are some 23ga pins holding the cap down to the paneling which are really just clamps for the silicone that was used to hold the cap secure.

    Here is a sketch of what I am talking about with the pilasters and paneling.


  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Leo....gorgeous work! What was your finishing regimen on those?
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    Just what I was going to ask.
    I'll be finishing some QSWO in the next week or two. I like the color you achieved.

    Are you really sure you want to put yourself through what I did?

    OK. QSWO gets sanded to 120 grit. The I used Elmer's Carpenters Putty to fill in the grain. Then I sanded it off using 180 grit to remove the majority of the filler and then 150 to get the correct scratch pattern for the staining. You can do this several times to help with the fill. Then I applied the custom color stain. Brown with an orange background.

    Then I used a ML Campbell product called Level Sealer. This is a clear that can be put on at 8-12 mils thick. You do it in 3 lifts. So you apply the 12 mil, wait and hour, apply 12 more mil, wait an hour and then apply another 12 mil. Then you let it dry at least overnight, the longer the better to let it shrink back (cure).

    After that I used 400 grit paper on my Mirka Ceros sander and flattened out the coating. Looking for shiny spots and sanding everything down until I got as flat as a surface as I dared. If you burn into the color coat it is a pain to repair. I figured out how to do a pretty invisible repair. I had to, I burned through on several occasions. For the bevels and profiles you need to sand by hand. Started off with a 220 just to break open the surface and then used 320 to sand it down. After that everything gets a once over with a Maroon Mirka Complete sanding pad which is the equiv of 320 grit.

    After that it was just normal finishing. In this case I used a Semi Gloss ML product called MagnaKlear.

    Lots of sanding

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Northern California
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    197
    Leo, I really like your fastening scheme (nice illustration, too). Clever way to get a secure mount to the wall with no fasteners showing.

    Beautiful! Work and wood.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    Are you really sure you want to put yourself through what I did?

    OK. QSWO gets sanded to 120 grit. The I used Elmer's Carpenters Putty to fill in the grain. Then I sanded it off using 180 grit to remove the majority of the filler and then 150 to get the correct scratch pattern for the staining. You can do this several times to help with the fill. Then I applied the custom color stain. Brown with an orange background.

    Then I used a ML Campbell product called Level Sealer. This is a clear that can be put on at 8-12 mils thick. You do it in 3 lifts. So you apply the 12 mil, wait and hour, apply 12 more mil, wait an hour and then apply another 12 mil. Then you let it dry at least overnight, the longer the better to let it shrink back (cure).

    After that I used 400 grit paper on my Mirka Ceros sander and flattened out the coating. Looking for shiny spots and sanding everything down until I got as flat as a surface as I dared. If you burn into the color coat it is a pain to repair. I figured out how to do a pretty invisible repair. I had to, I burned through on several occasions. For the bevels and profiles you need to sand by hand. Started off with a 220 just to break open the surface and then used 320 to sand it down. After that everything gets a once over with a Maroon Mirka Complete sanding pad which is the equiv of 320 grit.

    After that it was just normal finishing. In this case I used a Semi Gloss ML product called MagnaKlear.

    Lots of sanding
    Wow! That's a lot of work! I will look into Elmer's Carpenters Putty. I wasn't planning to do any fill, just a shellac sealer and some sort of mission oak stain followed with a few coats of varnish, but I really like the look of your finish.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  15. #15
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    May 2005
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    he lost me after the putty lol

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