Question about glue blocks????????

[Dwight McNutt]

Would it be ok to cut some 1 inch ash and glue together several pieces to make a glue block? Also is there a ratio for the size glue block compared to the material being turned(how big does the glue block need to be)?

Thanks Dwight

[John Keeton]

Dwight, I am not sure of your objective in gluing them up. Most all of my pieces are turned on 2" jaws, so I simply bandsaw 2" circles of 4/4 scrap material and keep several on my bench for use.

[Charlie Myers]

Just a guess, but if Dwight is like me he probably doesn't have 4/4 "scrap" material to use so his objective is to make material to use for glue blocks. Most of the "scrap" that I've seen other turners use for glue blocks....I'd want to use as stock to turn into something.

Charlie

[Carl Civitella]

Hi, 4/4 is just 3/4" lumber in the rough, which is enough for a glue block in most cases. Carl

[Bernie Weishapl]

Like the others I just 4/4 or one by stock for glue blocks. Like John I cut up several pieces that fit my chuck and keep them handy.

[Wally Dickerman]

4/4 thickness is all you need for a glue block. The size of the glue block is determined by how you will fasten the piece to the the lathe. If it's a chuck, cut the glue block large enough so that you can cut your regular size tenon on the block. If you plan to use a faceplate, cut the glue block a bit larger than the faceplate.

You are making a glue joint so be sure that both surfaces are true and flat. Most glue block failures are a result of not using enough glue. You want some squeezeout.

[Brian Kent]

Is the glue block something you glue to the bottom of your piece to hold it in the jaws - to be removed later? Sorry. Newbie question.

[Allan Ferguson]

Yes. Saves loss of wood from the finished piece.

[Scott Hackler]

Yes Brian. If you are a bit short on that really nice wood or just want to use every bit of it, you just glue on a waste block of some other kind of wood, turn a tenon on that (or attach that to a face plate) and turn away!

[Richard Allen]

Bite the bullet and buy a 4/4 poplar board (not S4S from HD but the cheap stuff from a lumber merchant). You should be able to get 4/4 poplar for less than $3/bf.

As for size. It depends. If I am making a glue block for a platter that will be 16" across the glue block will be 9" across. The center 6" will be concave and the 1 1/2""rim" will be dead flat. I will apply glue only to the "rim" area. If it's a bowl blank that is 12" across and 5" deep the glue block will be about 1" larger than the faceplate I use or the same size I intend to make the foot of the bowl (help me visualize the bottom of the bowl while turning.) If the glue block will be used in a chuck I generally make the block 4" with a recess for the chuck jaws. Again the glue block is sized for the foot of the object I am turning.

I true up the glue block before glueing it to the wood so that I can be sure to get a good glue joint. I also make the center of the glue block concave so that I don't have to part off the full width of the glue block when I am done. Also wood tends not to be flat so limiting the contact area to that portion which will do the most good (the "rim" area") helps get a secure glue surface.

Glueing pieces together for a glue block? I make large stave rings, more than 20" on occasion and the glue block is often made up of more than one piece of wood to span that width. For glue blocks less than 6" across I would not consider glueing wood together for a glue block.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Dwight, are you using 1" wide ash and asking if gluing it up to make it wider would be ok, or are you asking if 1" thick would be ok to glue up thicker???? Set me straight here, as I'm a little confused as to your question..... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Thomas Canfield]

I cut 3/4" lumber on bandsaw circle cutting jig to about 2 1/2" up to 4" diameter for glue blocks. I prefer to glue the rough cut glue block to the wood and then between centers round up the glue block and main wood block while turning the tenon. That makes for a better balanced piece when mounting in the chuck. 3/4" material should also be thick enough if a face plate is used and then you might want a larger diameter. I do save the turned off glue blocks to be used again making sure to true up the mounting face before removing from the chuck if the block is parted off with thin parting tool.

[Dwight McNutt]

Thanks everyone for all the answers. Somehow I got the idea that the glue block should be thicker than 1 inch(I thought 2 or 3 inches), but from what i'm reading here 1 inch should be thick enough(right).

Thanks Dwight

[Bob Aumock]

On the topic of glue blocks, what type of glue is recommended for securing the glue block to the blank ? CA, hot glue or ??

[robert baccus]

There are GBs and GBs depening on the load. an 8" shallow bowl-- a 1" GB is fine. on the opposite end we have a 75# longish vase of green sweet gum. Then i want a dogwood 1&1/2" x 4"dia. piece on a single screw trued to the lathe and a true,flat on the vase. a little tridk that works is to turn your GB very slowly on the lathe. run your thick glue in rings as it turns and you have no drips or runs. bring it up whik\le turning using the tailstock and mate the 2. have a rubber hammer to straighten the joint if out of line and get it perfectly strait. this will hold on wet green, soft wood better than screws in my opinion. if scared run some screws into all this after glue set-might sleep better. high stress GB's deserve a good hard nonsplitting wood like: dogwood, beech, elm, hickory, scaly bark ironwood, brazilian cherry ect, a good one will last for many bowls. i recommend only fresh, thick CA glue. It likes wet wood and cures in 10 minutes. no doubt hot glue will work on light pieces--i have no knowledge of this method.--------------old forester