Do I "need" a cabinet saw?

[Dave Anthony]

I've been into this hobby for several years and have completed a few projects: patio furniture, an aquarium stand, two entertainment centers, numerous bookcases, 2 cabinets, a decorative side table, a bathroom vanity, fireplace mantle. window sills, hardwood flooring, numerous small boxes, etc. On my current "to do" list are 4 mirrors and a cradle, and possibly cabinets for a small kitchen. Over the years my tool collection has grown: I currently have a Delta contractor saw w/a Jessum sliding table w/a Bench Dog router table extension in the wing. I've added a link belt, PALs and a Sharkguard splitter and built an enclosure to help w/dust collection. Jet 12" J/P & Jet 21" bandsaw, a small drill press and a 1.5 hp Delta dust collector are the other major power tools, along w/various routers, planes, chisels, clamps, etc. I've got a birthday coming up, and my wife keeps asking what I want. Money isn't an issue, and I keep thinking a cabinet saw would be nice to have. On the other hand, my current saw is set up nicely and for the most part does what I need. Dust collection is more accurately described as containment, and sometimes I have to be careful of the feed rate with 8/4 maple. I had some issues w/some very hard Bubinga, but other than that it's been a very good saw. I realize this is probably the wrong forum for a totally objective response, but what do you think? If your vote is yes, which saw?

[Rick Potter]

Nope, you don't need one. Your Delta contractors saw will do a good job for your projects. However, you can find good Unisaws for 7-900, all the extras you have put on your saw will fit the Unisaw, the dust collection will be better, and the footprint is actually smaller because you have the motor hanging out the back of your current saw.

So, my vote is yes. Get a 3HP Unisaw. Left tilt is usually considered the way to go, but with the slider some advise on the right tilt, which is much easier to find. Your choice. If you have room, also keep the contractor saw with a dado blade on it. If you use it as an outfeed table for the Uni it won't take up too much extra room. I assume you have 220 V.

Rick Potter

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Dave,

I went a similar path. I had a very nicely configured contractors saw (I had upgraded the belt, turned the arbor to run true, replaced the wings, etc etc). For different reasons I ended up selling that saw (an international move), and then a few years later replaced it with a cabinet saw. It was a nice upgrade, but I liked that contractor saw and it did everything I needed (like you say - bogged down some with thick dense stuff - but you have a nice bandsaw that can help with this).

I dont want the thread to digress, but if I were upgrading I might look at a SawStop. An upgrade might not do any more than your current setup, but it would feel 'nice' every time you use it and for me its still a heavily used tool. The Sawstop gives peace of mind (every little bit helps when it comes to safety, is my thinking - and yes, I have a thumb that clicks every time I move it, thanks to a table saw accident and corresponding surgery - but I still have that thumb and Im thankful for it). I think you would find a great deal of satisfaction every time you use the upgraded saw (nothing functionally superior, just a nice feeling to use a really nice piece of equipment).

If you were going to upgrade the dust collection you might see a major difference (expect to put a fair bit of time into this).

OR: If you are the type to migrate towards hand tools - I would get some really nice hand planes, dovetail saw, sharpening system, and jump on that learning curve. (this would be my first suggestion to you... but its a personal preference thing and depends on what you like to build)

The other anomaly I picked up off craiglist was a WoodRat (and then I put a digital readout on it, and an incra index on the cross slide). Ive been very surprised/pleased at how useful it has been for me.

Finally - one thing often overlooked is wood. A batch of really nice wood. Or classes. How about a week long class from a master.....? (have know some that have done rocking chairs, or kayaks as part of a class and had a great time and learned a lot).

[Ron Natalie]

I worked with a Delta Contractor saw for my first twenty years in woodworking. After some monkeys of a movers managed to really mess the thing up after a move (I was never able to get it back into alignment after that, I can't figure out WHAT they did to it), and at the gentle insistence of my wife, I replaced it with a SawStop PCS. It sure is nice having a bit more HP and a nicer fence (and as mentioned, it already came fitted for the DC. However, if the contractor saw is still working well (and especially if you've fixed it up with dust collection and a better fence), I might find better things to spend the $1500-3000 that a cabinet saw would cost on something else in the shop.

[Prashun Patel]

Dave-

My instinct is that you'll appreciate the improvement of a cabinet saw. Need one? no. But you'll really appreciate the improved dust collection and power.

The Sawstop is always worthy of consideration if $$ is no object.

That being said, around me there are a LOT of Grizzly cab's on CL almost every day for between $300 and $1000. They get very good reviews too.

I was able to do fine on a hybrid saw for a couple years. I don't think the quality of my work has improved switching to a cabinet saw, but I do appreciate all the upgrades; they're very nice to have.

[Von Bickley]

I also have a Delta contractor saw. Do I need a cabinet saw, NO. Do I want a cabinet saw, YES. If you want one and can afford it, go for it.
If you have room for 2 tablesaws, I would get the cabinet saw and keep the contractor saw. Set the contractor saw up for dados and leave the dado blades on it.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

I also had a Delta contractor's saw and upgraded to a used Unisaw to which I added a Brett guard and a sliding table. Definitely happy I upgraded.

On the other hand, you could visit the Felder showroom in Sacramento and I'm sure you would find a few Birthday ideas there!

[Van Huskey]

I would first consider other machines or tools that you don't have that will help you build the things you want to build. Basically, look at your entire upgrade path and determine if the saw would make the most difference for your work.

Just as an aside I like gifts given to me to be nice handtools. They are lifetime purchases and can be past down to the next generation.

[Jack Vines]

Since money is not the problem, go for it. These days, good used cabinet saws are so affordable, I can't imagine not owning one. As previously mentioned, it's definitely an upgrade and your used contractors saw will probably bring back a good share of the cost.

jack vines

[Neil Brooks]

No.

You absolutely do not need a cabinet saw.

But I say ... get one, anyway.

You're welcome.

[Dick Brown]

I have two cabinet saws and love Them. Could I do what I do with your saw? Absolutely! To be real honest, most of us "COULD" get by with a benchtop. Should see the old 8 inch Craftsman my Dad used for 50 years as a pro. carpenter/woodworker. My nephew wanted me to keep my eyes open for a used cabinet saw for his son's graduation. (He works after school in a cabinet shop and loves it.) I told him,"As the boy is just 18 and this will be a lifetime saw, go for the safety of a S.S. as it will be a small price per year to pay divided by the years of expected use. I am 77 and slowing. For me to upgrade to a $3000 saw???? Only you can answer "Should I - Shouldn't I.

[G Douglas Fowler]

I had much the same setup but on a craftsman contractor TS for 32 years. The second time the motor died I relaced the 1hp with 2hp and it served me very well until the sag in the top casting finally became too much to cope with. I replaced it with a 3 hp Grizzly and since the TS is primarily used for rough dimension cutting, I'm not sure it really matters as long as you can plough the wood without any strain. Regarding dust collection, it is pretty much a non-issue provided you can pull the dust down and away from the throat plate. Few TS's really completely evacuate the all of the dust from the cavity. I do agree with the comment earlier that a cabinet saw has a smaller foot print.

[Cary Falk]

No you don't need one. I didn't need one either. I had a nice 2005 Delta contractor saw with a T2 fence. My only real complaint was that dust collection sucked and I didn't like it that the blade went out of alignment when I tilted it and returned it back to 90. I eventually got a cabinet saw and loved it but I dont think I totally appreciated it till my friend got a contractor saw like I use to have and I helped him set it up. The saw that I once had and enjoyed now felt like a toy. The handles were tiny and awkard to get to. It was a royal pain to align the blade to the miter slot. I had PALS on mine so I don't remember it being that bad. The trunion was a pain to get to. You barely touch the motor and the .001" blade alignment disappeared and didn't come back till I redid the alignment. Dust collection still sucked. He is using it to build a house so it is not all that critical. One day he will tilt the blade. I'n not sure when I will break the news to him that he will have to realign. The splitter/guard on his saw is a joke. The riving knife on my cabinet saw is the bomb. I will give up woodworking before I give up my cabinet saw.

[Bobby O'Neal]

If money is really not a problem, get whatever you like. And get me one, too.

[Don Jarvie]

Do you need one? Yes. Here's why, weight and size. I have a PM 66 and the table is large and the saw is heavy which means I can through a big sheet of plywood on it and not worry about the saw moving.