SCMS and Miter Returns

[Lucas G Hager]

I've been playing with some molding lately, and I've wanted to ask you guys how you safely cut miter returns on the SCMS. Seems like everything I try still ends up with a flying object. Not the way I like to do things. I'll take any and all ideas.

I've even toyed with the idea of making a cutoff sled for my tablesaw. I would use it just to make the returns. I would still cut the large pieces of molding back at the miter saw.

So what do you guys use to cut miter returns (even if it doesn't involve the miter saw?)

Thanks,
Lucas

[Prashun Patel]

Cut the miter on the return first then cross cut the straight part to length.
the miter saw wants to pull the piece aback into the blade and then kick it out. The way to inhibit this is to make sure the fence fully supports the piece. On small pieces you might even want to screw in an aux fence as a backer.
also make sure that you don't lift the blade before the blade halts completely after the cut.

[frank shic]

use a manual miter box or build an auxiliary fence like prashun recommended. i hate trying to find those pieces when they come flying off!

[Kevin Stricker]

I do hundreds of returns on a typical craftsman style trim package, so I understand your frustration. A single window will have a minimum of 6, an elaborate built up head casing could have 10 by itself. If I am cutting a smaller piece of trim I will build a sub fence like others have mentioned, I usually just use a scrap of MDF at least as tall as the piece I am cutting and about the length of the saw. The important thing is to have the return on the outside of the blade if possible so it can fall away, vs falling into the fence and back into the blade. I always cut the return, switch miter angles(or workpiece) then cut the end of the stock. If you do this right you can get the grain to wrap the return, which looks pretty nice.

If it is a larger piece, or one giving me problems I cut it on the flat. So first cut is a square cut, then move the stock over about an inch and cut a 45 bevel, the return should just sit there as long as you leave the blade down tell the saw stops. Then flip the bevel and cut the end of the stock Usually there will be a small tooth on the back side of the return that will need to be chiseled or sanded off. Make sure the workpiece is clamped as cuts on the flat are more likely to creep leading to an open miter. Hope that makes sense.

[Tom Ewell]

Depending on the installation, say shoe or stool apron, there is no reason to cut completely through the trim if part will be hidden. Cut almost through and break off the piece after clearing the blade, the broken nib will be hidden after install.

If the need is for clean through cuts, then create an effective zero clearance cutting area using sacrificial fence and table as Prashun suggests to keep the little parts from flying (most of the time)