Heavy Duty, Indestructable, Non-Bending, Router Table

[Michael W. Clark]

I'm looking for some advice on building a heavy duty router table. I would appreciate any ideas whether they are real experience or "want-to's".

I have been thinking about the following:

1. Top construction - I've read the articles about using ply and mdf faced with laminate and I may eventually go that route, but has anyone considered a 1/2" or 3/8" thick steel top? This would allow me to use magnetic jigs, fingerboards, and even a magnetic fence if I wanted. I would like to mount a router lift directly to the top, without a router plate. I could get the opening machined, then make some steel or hardwood inserts. I want to minimize the ridges and grooves on the top. On my current router table, these always cause me a problem at the worst time.

2. Fence Construction and clamping - I would like to incorporate DC into the fence and clamp it without using slots in the top or T-tracks in a wood top. Maybe it could be clamped from the sides of the table or maybe the mag jigs would work? If using steel for the top, I would likely put an edging under the top and/or around the sides, but could incorporate the fence clamp as necessary.

3. Dust collection underneath the table - I plan to run a 4" duct into the cabinet, but has anyone got any ideas on a hood around the router or is just a 4" duct in the compartment sufficient?

I've seen the Bench Dog Cast Iron top and I like it, but don't like the price. I can get the steel fairly cheap and use some of that money toward machining the opening and inserts.

Any thoughts, comments, or pictures are very much appreciated.

Mike

[Mike Heidrick]

Do you want to try router bits in a shaper?

[Michael W. Clark]

I've heard mixed things about router bits in a shaper. Isn't the speed lower and does that hinder the use of smaller bits? If not, a shaper may be an option.

By the time I buy a router and lift, probably approaching a shaper. I have a PC 890 I would like to use until I upgrade to a larger router or add a shaper.

[Peter Quinn]

Will the steel be flat enough? I'm not sure that your basic cold rolled steel that is cheap s going to be as flat as a machined cast iron top. And by the time you brace it or weld supports, it seems like quite an investment in time and money for a machine that can only spin a 1/2" cutter? I made a router table a while back out of cheap melamine chip board, put some poplar bracing below, more than flat enough for wood working IMO. I've never been much into the "ultimate router table" quest, and I question the very notion that the table has to be perfectly flat anyway. The wood passing over my router table is rarely perfectly flat, neither is the router table frankly. Luckily with enough down pressure wood bends. Now mind you I'd not be thrilled if my router table were a smily face, but you won't catch me getting out the machinist straight edge and feeler gauges for that one. Just not necessary.

I saw an old photo of Art Espenet Carpenter's shop where he had a router shoved into a piece of plywood over a 50 gallon barrel. The barrel was both router stand and chip collector. The tool looked crude, but his work was fantastic. I have seen some pretty good work come from some pretty basic router tables.

[Michael W. Clark]

Peter, I agree with you that absolute flatness is not necessary. I have problems with the router plate in my table not being flush at each end, then hanging on the work piece. I have leveling screws, but can't keep all corners flush for some reason. I'm wanting something that is more tank-like than ultimate precise. I believe you can get the precision you need through test cuts, then as long as the fence position and router height lock solidly, you are good to go, at least for my standards. I hear what you are saying about the plywood and barrel. To each his own, and he probably makes better projects than I do. However, I do enjoy using solid, and quality machines, just my preference, doesn't mean its right.

I like the thought of a shaper table, but am concerned about not being able to run smaller bits at higher RPMs. I have mostly 1/2" shank bits, and I see there is an adapter for them with the shaper. What if I want to run a 1/4" spiral bit, will 10,000 RPM be too slow, or do I just need to slow the feed rate? I guess I'm not familiar with the trade-offs. I'll do some searching on here to see what I can find. If anyone has a particular thread they would recommend, please let me know.

Mike

[Carl Beckett]

I've had some funky router table setuos over the years. One of the firsts was a piece of pegboard bolted to a router and some aluminum channel as a fence. Jointed boards for panel glue up on it, and made a dang fine desk. Now I have a fancy homebuilt version. It's great also

If you are anywhere close Mike, I have a sears cast iron 'shaper' table top I would part with. It originally ran on a motor with a belt/pulley. Am wondering if you couldn't just change the pulley diameters and end up with router speeds. ( would need to evaluate if the bearings could take the speed increase)

I like the idea of building what you want. I'm not sure about steel sheet material though.....

You know, some tablesaws have a granite top..... That might be an interesting design idea. ( could get the kitchen guys to machine it for you )...

[Michael W. Clark]

Thanks Carl, I have thought about Granite. You can get off-cuts and they can machine it. I just had one done for a bath vanity for about $150 with back splashes and rounded edges. That's an option, just have to figure out a fence clamping mechanism, maybe on the sides of the table?

Thanks for the offer on the shaper top.

Mike

[Mark Ashmeade]

I'm looking for some advice on building a heavy duty router table. I would appreciate any ideas whether they are real experience or "want-to's".

I have been thinking about the following:

1. Top construction - I've read the articles about using ply and mdf faced with laminate and I may eventually go that route, but has anyone considered a 1/2" or 3/8" thick steel top? This would allow me to use magnetic jigs, fingerboards, and even a magnetic fence if I wanted. I would like to mount a router lift directly to the top, without a router plate. I could get the opening machined, then make some steel or hardwood inserts. I want to minimize the ridges and grooves on the top. On my current router table, these always cause me a problem at the worst time.

2. Fence Construction and clamping - I would like to incorporate DC into the fence and clamp it without using slots in the top or T-tracks in a wood top. Maybe it could be clamped from the sides of the table or maybe the mag jigs would work? If using steel for the top, I would likely put an edging under the top and/or around the sides, but could incorporate the fence clamp as necessary.

3. Dust collection underneath the table - I plan to run a 4" duct into the cabinet, but has anyone got any ideas on a hood around the router or is just a 4" duct in the compartment sufficient?

I've seen the Bench Dog Cast Iron top and I like it, but don't like the price. I can get the steel fairly cheap and use some of that money toward machining the opening and inserts.

Any thoughts, comments, or pictures are very much appreciated.

Mike

I got one of these. It very definitely has an indestructible, non-bending top. Cost $350. 7.5 HP motor included. I should be OK for a while with it.

NO7A.jpg

[Mike Heidrick]

Mark are you just using it as a shaper? Or do you have plans for router bits like Mike the OP mentioned?

[Jerome Hanby]

If you liked the cast iron Bench Dog tops, check out Peachtree. When I was looking, their's were less expensive and their shipping was solely based on price, not weight. Not sure if that's still the case, at the time I thought it was insane, but I was told that on the phone (I was calling to figure out how to get to their brick and mortar shop because I just knew the shipping would be astronomical). I ended up going with a standalone table (forgot to mention, the one I was looking at was for a table saw), but still have plane to get one for my Unisaw/Incra TS III setup when I get around to refurbishing the Unisaw.

I'm looking for some advice on building a heavy duty router table. I would appreciate any ideas whether they are real experience or "want-to's".

I have been thinking about the following:

1. Top construction - I've read the articles about using ply and mdf faced with laminate and I may eventually go that route, but has anyone considered a 1/2" or 3/8" thick steel top? This would allow me to use magnetic jigs, fingerboards, and even a magnetic fence if I wanted. I would like to mount a router lift directly to the top, without a router plate. I could get the opening machined, then make some steel or hardwood inserts. I want to minimize the ridges and grooves on the top. On my current router table, these always cause me a problem at the worst time.

2. Fence Construction and clamping - I would like to incorporate DC into the fence and clamp it without using slots in the top or T-tracks in a wood top. Maybe it could be clamped from the sides of the table or maybe the mag jigs would work? If using steel for the top, I would likely put an edging under the top and/or around the sides, but could incorporate the fence clamp as necessary.

3. Dust collection underneath the table - I plan to run a 4" duct into the cabinet, but has anyone got any ideas on a hood around the router or is just a 4" duct in the compartment sufficient?

I've seen the Bench Dog Cast Iron top and I like it, but don't like the price. I can get the steel fairly cheap and use some of that money toward machining the opening and inserts.

Any thoughts, comments, or pictures are very much appreciated.

Mike

[Ernie Miller]

Take a look at Episode 5 of this series. The fence clamping system may work for you.

[Brian Kincaid]

Folks who don't need a flat router table: Do you use tongue in groove joinery? Do you make panel doors? Joinery?

-Brian

[Michael W. Clark]

Folks who don't need a flat router table: Do you use tongue in groove joinery? Do you make panel doors? Joinery?

-Brian

Brian, I use my table for joinery and panel doors. I do try for a flat table, but I don't obsess about the flatness from end to end. I suppose the router plate takes care of this in the vicinity of the bit since it is flat. If I have a few small gaps where I can see light under a straightedge, that is not a deal breaker for me. However, if I spend $500 on a table advertised as flat within a certain range, then I would expect the product to be as advertised.

I think if you put two 3/4" plywood panels together, there is going to be some "unflatness" to them as compared to a metal top that has been surface ground flat, maybe I'm wrong. I think the key is that the relationship between the wood and the bit be repeatable from pass to pass, both in plan view and elevation. This is one reason why I don't like the plastic insert on my router plate. I think it bends when you put significant downward pressure on the wood, especially at the beginning and end of the cuts. I also want a fence that clamps solidly. (Ernie, I don't have a password, any way you can describe the article or print and send it to me?)

I wish Bench Dog still made the steel inserts. I guess the plastic ones are in there to increase profit margin, and make up for increased costs while keeping the price the same. This is fine, just wish the steel ones were an option.

[Brian Kincaid]

Brian, I use my table for joinery and panel doors. I do try for a flat table, but I don't obsess about the flatness from end to end.

Michael, that makes sense. If you use hold-downs around the plate you should get pretty good repeatability. I opted to install my lift on a machined table (made by Quality Grinding a few years back).
-Brian

[Andrew Pitonyak]

1. Top construction - I've read the articles about using ply and mdf faced with laminate and I may eventually go that route, but has anyone considered a 1/2" or 3/8" thick steel top? This would allow me to use magnetic jigs, fingerboards, and even a magnetic fence if I wanted. I would like to mount a router lift directly to the top, without a router plate. I could get the opening machined, then make some steel or hardwood inserts. I want to minimize the ridges and grooves on the top. On my current router table, these always cause me a problem at the worst time.

I used 1" MDF and I laminated the top and bottom. I then built a support structure underneath out of oak to keep it flat. I see the apeal of steel, because then I could use say my magnetic featherboard. Of course, I would also need to worry about rust...

2. Fence Construction and clamping - I would like to incorporate DC into the fence and clamp it without using slots in the top or T-tracks in a wood top. Maybe it could be clamped from the sides of the table or maybe the mag jigs would work? If using steel for the top, I would likely put an edging under the top and/or around the sides, but could incorporate the fence clamp as necessary.

I just sold an Oak park router table that had no tracks and you simply clamped the fence to the table. My router table is attached to my table saw (well, I sold my table saw, and I have not yet brought my new SawStop into the basement) and I use the saw fence as a backstop for my fence sometimes.


For the Oak Park router table, the expectation was that the fence would clamp directly to the table. I had a box joint jig that used screws, but it set down over the bit, and there was no place for clamps.


In general, there is not much need to keep the fence parallel to anything else when routing.... Unless you have a jig that runs in a T-Track, then you really need to stay parallel to that.


I built my router fence out of plywood and I attach dust collection to the end, so there is a channel to pull the dust along the fence and then out the side. It is easier for me to route a hose off the side of the table, than off the back of the table. I can then use the other half of the fence to store a few wrenches or such if I like.


My plan is to add a track to the table, I have simply not done it yet because I have not had the need.

3. Dust collection underneath the table - I plan to run a 4" duct into the cabinet, but has anyone got any ideas on a hood around the router or is just a 4" duct in the compartment sufficient?

I built a plywood cabinet around the router lift and added a simple door to the front. Just be careful about where you will place the "dust hole". I placed this in the bottom so that the dust would mostly fall into it, but I do still have dust that builds up in the corners. This does pull a lot of dust down into the case with no problems, but, I still use the dust collection off the fence...

I've seen the Bench Dog Cast Iron top and I like it, but don't like the price. I can get the steel fairly cheap and use some of that money toward machining the opening and inserts.

If you do not plan on using a plate, I am interested (curiousity) as to how you will engineer your plates. Seems like a difficult problem. If you plan on using a router lift, would you build that yourself, or can you purchase one that will attach to an existing table bottom without a plate? This is one reason that I would consider forgoing a direct attachement.


I assume that even out of steel (depending on the steel) that you may still want some sort of support structure underneath to keep it flat.