Request for advice on production job

[Bruce Pratt]

I have the opportunity to bid on a production job of 32 porch balusters (4 1/2 x 14).

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Having not done a production run of this size before, I would appreciate any advice on pricing.
Thanks,

Bruce Pratt

[Curt Fuller]

Cost +15%

With so many variables, not knowing what type of wood or cost of wood, not ever doing it before and not knowing the time it will take, cost plus is about the only way you can come out ahead. It might not get you the job though. The only negotiable cost would be your per hour rate.

[Reed Gray]

It might be worth getting a duplicator for this job, or at least borrowing one. For time considerations, figure the first one will take you at least twice as long as the last one.

robo hippy

[Greg Just]

Do you have a duplicator? I would at least make up a Story Stick with dimensions noted on it. This is a lot of turning of the same thing. I would have a hard time making 32 of the same thing. Make sure you add all your expenses, a boredom factor and a profit. Good luck.

[David DeCristoforo]

I got a similar job many years ago (one of the few times I used a lathe) when, one night, a guy drove through a fence in front of the house of the Storey County DA. He took out half the fence which was made of balusters similar to those you show plus some fancy top and bottom rails. The replacement parts were made of redwood which cost a small fortune. I did the job on a T&M basis and I was very glad of that because it all ended up costing much more than I would have imagined. I made a very funky duplicator for the job. It would be worthwhile to rig one up for a project like this but if you have to bid against someone with a "real" duplicating lathe, you will probably not be able to compete.

[Bruce Pratt]

Greg,

No duplicator, don't think there is one for a PM 3520B. Story stick for sure, plus a bunch of preset calipers or go/nogo cutouts.

[Dennis Ford]

Just a guess; material cost for 36 (4 spares) plus $1000 - $1200 for labor.

[Brian Ashton]

Used to do lots of production work in a former life... Things to consider:
Do you need to sand them?

If so how much? Sanding takes up a great deal of time. If they're painted you might be able to drop that part of the process. Depends on your skill level.

Whats the wood. Nice reasonably soft, creamy, close grained, wood is best for speed. I'd hand pick it...

A piece of ply with small pins nails, with the heads ground to points, sticking out makes a fast and accurate story stick for marking out and you don't have to stop the lathe to make it work. In fact it won't work if you do stop the lathe. Just rough the turning then push the story stick into the spinning piece and it's all marked out in seconds... Sometimes I'd mark the tool rest to show where the largest diamter was roughly to be on large sweeping beads or the thinest section on coves

Go, no goes are the quickest for determining diameter. My favorite is to set a reference diameter and then all other diameters are eyeballed off of it - extremely quick when you get the hang of it.

Forget the duplicator unless you are a fairly newish turner and can't employ cutting methods, as opposed to scraping... I've always found them to be slow and do a lousy job.

Use the chuck, if you have one, to grip the wood. It much quicker than fiddling with trying to mark out centers and then banging in the spur center. The chuck doesnt have to grip too tight to be effective so it wont leave marks.

Dont mark out the other end either. Throw it in the chuck and bring the tail stock up and then sink the point, but not the cup of the center. Then you can tap it around with your hand to center it as you spin the piece by hand. Use the tool rest as the reference on the corners of the stock.

Also for a job like that I'd have a tool rest that was long enough that I didnt have to keep moving it. I'd lock it in position and not move it again - too much time is wasted fiddling with such things...

I found that I preferred to have the lathe rpms up high also to quicken the pace so having god stock is a must and a face shield.

Try to use as few tools as possible. The more times you grab for a tool the more time you waste. I used to use a bowl gouge to cut the shoulder then a parting tool to set my one, and sometimes two, reference diamters and then grab the bowl gouge to do everything else. Beads, coves and flats, except long flat sections, we're cut with the bowl gouge.

These are a few of the techniques I used to employ. I used to turn 16" colonial style pine Legs in about 5 - 6 mins from the time I mounted the piece to when I placed it in the box. Table legs took about 8 mins. Absolutely destroyed my neck doing production turning

[Jim Underwood]

Having turned several sets of legs in the past few years, I'd say Brian has some excellent advice. Those tips will help save you quite a bit of time. Can't add much but a +1...

[Bruce Pratt]

Thanks everyone for their excellent input. Lots to consider before I make a bid.

[Thomas Canfield]

Bruce, YOu definitely have a learning experience in front of you in any case, even if you loose the bid. I had to make 12 half section balusters for a play stage a couple of years ago that were 3 1/2" x 32"L, but has a somewhat similar profile. You might be surprised how much speed you will pick up as you get into the process, and a good story stick and gentle curves will go fast down to your set diameters. The 4 1/2" will cause you some problems for stock selection and preparation that need to be factored in also (sounds like a new bandsaw blade and miter saw blade as a minimum). I was using 4x4 fir and it got painted, and was only seen form 20'+ so no close inspection, and I would not expect too close inspection. Small variation between pieces can be worked around in the placement when assembled, as a blemish can possibly also be positioned for best side viewing.

[Kenneth Hertzog]

Brian
General does make a duplicator for the powermatic 3520.
I have one for just such items.
Ken