During his hand tool class, I remember Jim Tolpin telling us "He can cope with a fret saw, but frets when using a coping saw". Given that I have much less experience with both, I still understand his view. However, I only have a coping saw, and must deal with it. Generally, I've found a coping saw to not be all that friendly - rough sawn surfaces and it does not want to follow a nice smooth curve.

Well, I've helped myself by making a coping saw table and getting a better coping saw (the one LV sells). These helped, but still ...

I also remember Mike Wenzloff describing how to reduce the set of a saw by using a machinist vise and some paper. Of course he was talking about real saws - rip saws, panel saws, back saws. I've used his technique on several saws that didn't want to follow a straight line and greatly improved them. So I thought, why not apply this to the coping saw blade.

I did. I used newsprint, which should give approximately 0.003" set to each side. Then stoned the back edge to round it off a bit, hoping it would help went making curved cuts.

I'm happy with the results. The cut surfaces are smoother and the saw seems to track better. Of course with a narrower kerf, the cut radius can't be as tight. Still I was able to cut 2" radius curves quite nicely and transition into a smooth ogee shape.

Reducing the coping saw blade's set has been a worthwhile exercise. Of course, if you want to cut tight curves, you still need a fair amount of set in the blade.