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Thread: Finish needed for bar top

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Silver City, New Mexico
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    Finish needed for bar top

    I am building a small bar in white oak for a winery tasting room and need a top coat that will not react to alcohol or water and doesn't look like a plastic/epoxy coating. Some finishers recommend Waterlox Original. I welcome suggestions.

    Doug

  2. #2
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    Apr 2006
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    Escondido, CA
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    Or Waterlox Original.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  3. #3
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    Waterlox...,
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
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    Has anyone mentioned Waterlox yet?
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  5. #5
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    +4 Waterlox
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all. I ordered a gallon today.

  7. #7
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    Doug,

    Make sure you displace the air in the container after you open it. A gallon is a lot more than you will need for a bar unless it's a very very long bar. A gallon will do 400 to 500 square feet of wood. I use Argon gas (from mig welder) or Bloxygen toget as much oxygen as I can out of the container. others have used CO2 but I don't have a cylinder of that in my shop, no real need for it. Once it gels in the can it's time to pitch it.

    Hmm... I wonder if that would be gel Waterlox? (joke)
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    mid-coast Maine and deep space
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    Doug,

    Make sure you displace the air in the container after you open it. A gallon is a lot more than you will need for a bar unless it's a very very long bar. A gallon will do 400 to 500 square feet of wood. I use Argon gas (from mig welder) or Bloxygen toget as much oxygen as I can out of the container. others have used CO2 but I don't have a cylinder of that in my shop, no real need for it. Once it gels in the can it's time to pitch it.

    Hmm... I wonder if that would be gel Waterlox? (joke)
    This is important info, so please don't mind if I piggyback on Scott's advice. At the very least pour off what you have left into a container that will be full with your left overs. DON'T POUR UNUSED WATERLOX INTO THE ORIGINAL SOURCE. Set it aside and use it tomorrow but don't mix with unused stock.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Hmmmm. Back when I was into black and white photography with film, the local camera shop had developing chemicals and containers. Developer would oxidize and become useless in short order if exposed to air. There was an ingenious plastic gallon container that was shaped like a bellows. Pour out some developer, press down on the bottle and put on the cap when the remaining developer would reach the top of the bottle. In other words, the bottle was always full. Something like this might be useful for finishes.

    B&H photo has one liter accordian bottles in black ( some photo chemicals are degraded by light ) for about $15. There used to be others in larger sizes.

  10. #10
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    I tried something like that... The Waterlox gelled in the full container... not sure if it was because the finish "got air" when poured into the container or what but it gelled in the sealed container. NOTE: it also sucked the the container inward deforming the shape.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
    Waterlox must be pretty GOOD stuff!

    Can it be used Exterior too?

    I have had very good luck using that Bloxygen... it really works!

  12. #12
    The problem with the collapsing container might be that it was plastic. I have had bad luck storing waterlox in polyethylene bottles. They gelled up. However, in glass that does not happen. There's no getting around the fact that this stuff is expensive - either in lost product or effort and containers to keep it for a long time.

    I am probably the biggest Waterlox fan there is. However, I would caution you that it is extremely popular here on SMC and not necessarily the only game in town.

  13. #13
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    Waterlox does make an excellent marine varnish. Interior and exterior fniishes are formulated differently. Exterior are softer and LESS waterproof... but they will stretch and give with seasonal changes; an interior would crack and that would allow water penetration and complete failure within a short time frame.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Atlanta, GA
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    Well, now.

    If I was to have a wine tasting room with a bar in it, I would get right to the point, and color it with the "aye-uh" finishes:

    Ornellaia
    Sassicaia
    Gaja

    And - to provide some fill-in color, Tignanello.

    They all look great on unvarnished white oak - trust me on that one.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  15. #15
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    Kent,

    Isn't that a waste of good wine?
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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