[OP]
Contributor
I need to build a new router table. I'm use to a 27" wide table in my TS but recently sold that. Some tables are longer than wide and others wider than long. I assume they are this way depending if you are planning on using a joint system like an Incra LS system. Are there any other reasons for wider or longer?
Thanks,
Mike
Member
more support or if you want to install multiple routers like me
I had a 27" bolted to the side of the tablesaw that I took great care in making a cabinet for. I wanted the most room possible in the cabinet so I made it flush at the 27" outer dimension of the RT top. The new top is 32" wide and I use the overhang a lot to clamp jigs and fixtures to for odd operations. This was not possible without the overhang and led me to replace the top. So that's my reason for a certain size; whatever the size, have an overhang ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
In Memoriam
"Are there any other reasons for wider or longer?"
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If space is not a problem and you can make a flat top stay flat, then size it for your demand.
Notwithstanding, if precision is your aim, then bigger = less precision & accuracy, especially for joinery.
Stuff changes shape with time, humidity and temperature. The end of a stick 10 feet long, with modest crook, is a mile out of plane with the other end of the stick.
A router table, unless exquisite allowances are exercised, will change shape.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for the responses so far. Here is what I just sold with my TS:
I liked it for storage on the front of the TS and front of the RT. But, at times I thought the width could have been a little larger. One reason I asked is that Jointech has 27" x 48" x 3/4" phenolic tops on clearance for about $130 shipped. It would duplicate what I have and I think I'm looking for a non-joinery type fence this go around and want a wider table.
Mike
Member
C'mon now Pat ... we're not building a table for a surface grinder here ... as long as the area in general proximity to the bit's actual working area is flat ... the rest is just for support, and it's flatness is of little consequence. I know, in theory, you are correct, but in this case I would argue that it is not significant or relevant.Originally Posted by pat warner
Your 10' stick analogy is not a function of a non flat router table ... it's a function of a crooked piece of stock ... and no router table ... "exquisite" or otherwise is going to cure that. In fact, it proves just the opposite to be true ... as I said, if the working area of the table is flat ... the rest is relatively unimportant, but convenient support. If your table was a full 4' X 8' ... dead flat over it's entire surface (not possible, I know .. at least not for all but the very wealthiest amongst us) ... and that crooked piece out on the end was just dangling out there ... it would still have zero effect on the trueness of the joinery performed on said table.
Last edited by Bob Wingard; 04-14-2012 at 2:48 PM.
In Memoriam
" it's flatness is of little consequence. I know, in theory, you are correct, but in this case I would argue that it is not significant or relevant.?
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If the table is mishapen the work may rotate as it passes the cutter.
Given a modest amount or no error in material prep, and a table with a high spot, twist, crown, cup or bow, expect the work to rotate.
That rotation will be expressed in the cut. And if that cut is a joinery cut, (glue joint, cope, t&g, lap, dovetail), the joint may not fit. For decorative cuts, as implied, who cares?
But for joinery, why tempt the hand of fate, lest a loose or jammed joint is acceptable?
Member
I would venture to guess that the box joint is probably one of the hardest joints to "dial-in" on a router table ... AND ... again, the relative flatness of the table is of little consequence, so long as the area immediately surrounding the bit/jig is flat.
I love watching the ROUTER WORKSHOP guys at work ... they use a simple table, and an even simpler fence ... usually just a piece of UHMW type plastic with a cutout for bit clearance. And, their "fine adjusting tool" is a small hammer !! I've seen some of their projects and talked with them for quite some time at an IWF show a while back ... they do phenomenal work with a minimum of precision equipment. Most of the precision they attain, they attribute to the use of well built and properly used jigs & fixtures. I really can't see your argument relative to rotation of the work piece unless one is sufficiently foolish to not be using any kind of fixture ... and, again, no amount of "exquisite" construction or $500 fences is going to fix that. Lest you think I am critical of your products ... please be assured that is not the case ... from what I've seen, they are works of art in their own right ... and the market place will determine if they are a good value for the money ... I couldn't even begin to afford or justify most of your products ... which is fine because I really don't feel a need for them.
In Memoriam
I think you're missing something, Bob, something the other folks might like to know about.
Very little on-end work is the province of the router table.
Small boxes and such e.g. yes, but large work has its handling issues there.
(Feeding 16-24" wide cabinet stock on-end across a table cutter is simply not practical.)
And indeed, I agree, where only a small diameter of space around the cutter is essential, there is little adversity.
Notwithstanding, the majority of table joinery is done with the work flat and along the fence or at right angles to it. And in that case there is a lot of work or fixturing on the surface.
And long sticks, even as short as 2', will sense the deformities and pivot on their centerlines if the table surface is mishapen.
Sticklers and joiners want good fitting joinery whether edge to edge, rail to stile or even end to end.
And knowledge of the table surface topography is the first place to look for errors if one has already aced out the material prep protocol. I like being in control. And knowledge of just where the errors are or can be, puts me in control.
Member
OK ... let's try this ... can you give me examples of the cuts of which you speak to clarify why flatness beyond say, a 10" radius of the bit would be detrimental ??? I just don't see it being an issue.
Member
Just my .02 cents, but when I built mine, I went for "larger". I guess it pretty much depends on what you'll be using the surface for most. For me, it was for making panel doors and doing pattern work mostly - therefore I chose to have a larger surface. Overall, I built mine to 40" x 28". I also have a shaper that I use primarily for the "raised panel" part of the door since I can remove material in one quick pass, but I've always complained that the table surface was too small overall (JET 1 1/2HP shaper). I don't think you can go wrong by being a bit larger as opposed to being too small.
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Last edited by Randy Dutkiewicz; 04-15-2012 at 12:40 PM. Reason: correction
Yep, that is very close to what I used to have except I place my RT on the left of the TS. Thus, the change to the larger table with the overhang. It will depend, as always, on what you do but, a very simple slot system and the inexpensive Rockler fence have served me quite well. I like the way you rigged your sidewinder; very nice. I sacrificed a little front area/drawer potential to allow a panic paddle style bump-to-stop switch in the upper right front of the cabinet. My previous setup taught me a few things about what I wanted when I rebuilt. I'm sure you will get closer to what you want this time around.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
Mine is 24" X 36". It gives me room to mount fences, jigs, etc. Room for larger stock.
All kinds of reasons.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
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