Continental style spindle gouge - any users with thoughts?

[John Keeton]

Thanks, Terry! Good hearing from you. I ended up purchasing the Hamlet 1.25" from Packard and when I get a chance I will post an informal review of my experience on the next endgrain piece. The Sorby looked nice, as well, and they are available in the states, of course - but, cost just a little more. If I end up liking this one, I may end up with a smaller one, too.

[Reed Gray]

Well after getting upset with a piece of cottenwood (NEVERMORE!!!!), in order to relax a bit, I tool a small Thompson fluteless gouge and ground it to a detail/spindle gouge profile like a tool that Allen Batty had. Wonderful for turning beads and coves.

robo hippy

[Terry Gerros]

Hey John,

OK well the Craft Supply order came in today and I will admit it, I bought 3 new spindle gouges....included were the Rex/Kip 9/16" forged gouge, Henry Taylor Spindle Pro (1/2"), and Henry Taylor 9/16" M2 gouge. Have to say, I like all three. The Rex/Kip gouge is thicker than I expected but cut quite nicely. I bought the Spindle Pro because I thought it would be much like the fluteless gouge, and it is except that it has a flat bottom with rolled sides, this is going to be one nice tool. I got the 9/16" for back hollowing, aka Richard Raffan. Although I've only had them in my hands for a couple hours, I believe the Rex/Kip gouge is going to become a favorite. Don't really have any particulars other than the handle fits nicely and heavier due to thicker cross section, probably more stable tool.

[Jamie Donaldson]

Reed- this post is useless without a photo!

[Vince Welch]

HI John,
Congrads on your new tools coming to you! I know years ago Glaser had a Continental Spindle gouge and somehow I ended up with one before the symposium was over. Nice tool! When our pathes cross again just remind me in advance and I will bring the tool for you to work with if you care to try it.

Vince

[John Keeton]

Thanks, Vince - will do!! Perhaps you can visit with the club again sometime this year. And, Terry, congrats on the haul! Sounds like you got a nice selection. I received the 1.25" Hamlet from Packard and it is a HUNK of metal. I have a piece on the lathe at the moment that I need to not remove until finished as it is in the steady rest. But, as soon as possible, I intend to play with the new gouge and perhaps take some pics to post.

[Rick O'Ryan]

I have been trying to track down Rude's spindle skew for a friend. Thanks for posting the pic. Is this still being made? I like it alot for small spindle work.

[Reed Gray]

Looks like a standard scraper, maybe 1 inch by 5/16 thick, with some thing between a C and a ( nose profile, and almost like a negative rake scraper, as in bevel on top. Might take some time at the grinder.

robo hippy

[robert baccus]

John, I'v always wanted a German type gouge. Years ago I stumbled on a grind that is rare if not unique. I've done this to 2 roughing gouges( 3/4 & 1") and 1 7/8 spindle gouges. I grind them to a 70 deg.+ bevel almost straight across. They are almost unsurpased at removing stock on vase shapes--both in volume of chips and impossible to get a catch. Used almost flat on the tool rest they do loose inside curves and outside curves with no effort. They behave much like a good bottomfeeder but are too wide for thatprobably and leave a decent finish cut to boot. The pic of your German gouge looks like a fairly steep grind also? Good luck

[Bob Bergstrom]

Just finished turning ten 5x7 finials for a railing. Used a 1"Sorby continental with a finger nail grind and a 30 degree grind angle. Cut like a skew on tapers without the possible ripples. Also will catch like a skew if not presented correctly. OUCH!

[Michael Kellough]

John, they are also refered to as 'German' spindle gouges, though 'continental' as opposed to 'english' is probably truer from my searches. Packard also makes and sells some
Attachment 229513

I have the two from the HF set and use them for spindle work where I need large curves. since they are forged (with a tang) I don't think i would want to use them for faceplate work.

What is the difference between this and a SRG with a fingernail grind, except the tang?

[John Keeton]

Michael, the radius of the flute is much tighter on a SRG than on the Continental/German gouge, which has a much more open flute.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I have a couple continental gouges, though I don't use them much, I will give them a try if I have some stubborn grain that doesn't want to cut clean, this will often enough give me a better finish.

The gouge is really a all-around gouge and is was used as such, certainly not a scraper and not a spindle roughing gouge either, with a rounded nose, used as a spindle gouge and hollowing gouge as well, though I rather use a bowl gouge normally, there are times these will get me better results.

Here is an old movie, I've seen it years ago, so went to look for it, it is one where the use of the chisel, hook-tool and continental gouge are shown, note the acute bevel and rounded nose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z_Ph6nZfGE

[Peter Blair]

John I see this is an old thread but you may be interested in this story. Yesterday at auction I purchased this tool along with a 3/8 carving gouge for the grand total of $11.80 Canadian. I bid at this auction based on photos on the net so I wasn't too sure what I was bidding on but when I went to pick it up I knew I had something. It weighs in at about 47 oz has a short handle and lots of steel as well as a solid brass ferrel. It appears to have been sharpened with a stone at least the bevel is flat not hollow ground. I can find no evidence of a maker anywhere on the steel of the handle but it does appear to be well made. I will get some wood on my lathe tomorrow and give it a try.
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[John K Jordan]

Peter, your photos are tiny thumbnails so I can't see the detail or the size, but that looks much like a forged continental spindle gouge I have that I like using, often as a spindle roughing gouge. Since the tang in the handle is small and the bite large, I'm sure you know not to use it on face turning (bowls and such) since it is likely to catch on the end grain and the tang can break - people have been injured this way!

Also, with unknown tools, I always use the file test to see if they are hardened properly and how much is hardened. I collect used tools to grind, give, or loan and some are not hardened at all. Some are hardened just an inch or so at the end.

JKJ

John I see this is an old thread but you may be interested in this story. Yesterday at auction I purchased this tool along with a 3/8 carving gouge for the grand total of $11.80 Canadian. I bid at this auction based on photos on the net so I wasn't too sure what I was bidding on but when I went to pick it up I knew I had something. It weighs in at about 47 oz has a short handle and lots of steel as well as a solid brass ferrel. It appears to have been sharpened with a stone at least the bevel is flat not hollow ground. I can find no evidence of a maker anywhere on the steel of the handle but it does appear to be well made. I will get some wood on my lathe tomorrow and give it a try.
IMG_8655.jpgIMG_8657.jpgIMG_8656.jpg