Porter Cable 4212 dove tail jig setup question

[Joe Scharle]

When I set up a dovetail jig (1/2" fingers), I scribe a mark 1/2" on the left edge of the top (pin/end) board. That's the offset for the side (tail) board. Using this as an alignment mark you don't even need the side stops. You can cut the boards in the middle of the jig. However, most people would rather use the parts they paid for and want the side stops to perform their function. Setting the 2 boards to this mark should help you get the side stops in their proper places.

[Al Bacon]

When I set up a dovetail jig (1/2" fingers), I scribe a mark 1/2" on the left edge of the top (pin/end) board. That's the offset for the side (tail) board. Using this as an alignment mark you don't even need the side stops. You can cut the boards in the middle of the jig. However, most people would rather use the parts they paid for and want the side stops to perform their function. Setting the 2 boards to this mark should help you get the side stops in their proper places.

Thanks Joe

Sometimes the simplest of things sit right in front of you and you never see them. I will give that a try. It certainly makes sense.

Al

[scott vroom]

Hi Scott

Did you ever get the alignment issue with your Porter Cable 4212 dovetail jig straightened out? I ask because I am having the same issue with my new jig. The tail and pin pieces are misaligned by about 1/32. It would seem that the problem is in the side stops. Did they ever send replacements that were correct?

Al Bacon

Al, not only did Porter Cable not send replacement parts, they denied there was a problem with manufacturing tolerances which is likely total BS. I worked in mfg ops for many years and I know only too well that processes get out of spec and need to be recalibrated. I also know from direct experience that a certain amount of slop is not only expected but also accepted as a means to keep costs down. It's not economically feasible to manufacturer every product to 6-sigma. So I use my feeler gauge and enjoy my self-calibrated, affordable PC jig. I just wish the manufacturers were more truthful and not try so hard to cover up the obvious. You didn't mention brand...is yours also a PC 4212?

[Al Bacon]

HI Scott

Yep it's a 4212.

[Earl McLain]

Good tip Joe. Since right after i got my PC jig, i've been scribing the first vertical workpiece to set my bit depth. Nothing wrong with the idea of the depth stop they put on the machine, but it's in an area that doesn't get light--so a depth scribe is quick and easy for me!!
earl

[Randy Hughes SJ]

This is an old thread, but since I am having the same issue I thought I would respond. Drawer sides were not aligning - off by more than 1/16" on side registration. I checked a few parts of the jig and found the "forks" on the template are not drilled correctly (since they are countersunk, there is no adjustment). One side is skewed by 1/32" so the offset is off by almost 1/16" when I turn the template. This results in the sides being out of alignment by 1/16" plus and I have to trim the drawers at the table saw. I will be calling PC to see about a new template, but in the short term I loosened the screw on one side of the fork, aligned the fork, and put a little loc-tight (purple) under the screw head to hold it in place (leaving the screw just loose enough so it won't push the alignment back out). It appears this fixed the registration issue for me.

[Mike Goetzke]

Scott - one other check to make is that the guide bushing is centered on the bit. This will affect the tightness of the joint but not the alignment.

Mike

[Paul Wunder]

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

Above is a link to a podcast done by Bryan Nelson from Woodsmith magazine on how to cut dovetails using a Porter Cable 4212. It is quite detailed (and wordy) and runs about an hour. I think you need to choose podcast #20 and then download it to your PC in various formats

[Dan Joosten]

When I set up a dovetail jig (1/2" fingers), I scribe a mark 1/2" on the left edge of the top (pin/end) board. That's the offset for the side (tail) board. Using this as an alignment mark you don't even need the side stops. You can cut the boards in the middle of the jig. However, most people would rather use the parts they paid for and want the side stops to perform their function. Setting the 2 boards to this mark should help you get the side stops in their proper places.

I've been having the same problem using the edge guide for the mini template since you need to use different edge guides. I like your suggestion to mark the top board instead of using the guide. I guess I would need to mark it a 1/4 instead for the mini template. There definitely has to be something wrong with the guide since I can't get the boards to line up no matter how carefully I align them to the guide. Marking it would be much more accurate I would guess. Thanks for the tip.

[Mike Gresham]

This video may be of some help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTRCSAM-YTk
It was made my one of SMC's members.