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Thread: How many coats of lacque.

  1. #1

    How many coats of lacque.

    I have built and already completed a changing table for our baby room. For the finish on this I used an oil based varnish. It worked well. I just completed the crib and I am ready to put the finish coats on it, but I am thinking of getting cans of spray lacquer. All the slats will be a pain to brush on. For the changing table I did two coats on the piece and three for the top. How many coats of lacquer would I need to spray on?

  2. #2
    They are different animals. Varnish goes on in layers. Lacquer 'burns' into itself, creating a single layer. Also, spray can finishes are WAY THINNER than product out of an openable can.

    I've used both Deft Finish and Minwax spray lacquer out of the can. They both work pretty well, but I'm partial to the Deft. On most items, I find about 6-9 sprayed coats to be plenty. For each coat, I do three quick passes. For better or worse I treat it like shellac, and do not aim to get a THICK film, but rather an EVEN film. once the sheen is even, I stop.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Lacquer will not hold up well protecting the crib from "stuff". Lacquer doesn't do well when liquid water and or household cleaners are used.

    I suggest varnish, you can coat the slats before you assemble the rails or you can use the wipe-on approach to do the assembled rails. Wipe on will need about 9 coats. You can do 3 per "session" wipe it on like the kid wipes the table at the fast food joint then as soon as it's dry-to-the-touch (an hour or so, depending on the varnish and thinner you used); now apply another coat the same way.

    If you get drips or sags you are leaving too much varnish, wipe on is just a thin wipe no back and forth no smoothing it out to get rid of rag marks; these indicate too much finish a wipe on coat is VERY thin 3 or 4 wipe on coats will have the same build as 1 brush one coat. No sanding needed for the first 6 coats unless you are using a poly varnish.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    ... Lacquer doesn't do well when liquid water ...
    My ML Campbell Magnamax lacquer must be broken then.

    Almost daily, I take a big glass of water with me out to the shop, set it on a test cabinet door I sprayed with black lacquer, and it sweats profusely until it I either drink it or the ice melts and water reaches room temperature. It has not raised the finished, left a ring, or in any way, damaged the finish. I've left the sweat pool to dry by itself several times.

    I think lacquer would be FINE for the crib, but no way would I care to spray 9 coats from an aerosol can. That sounds like 9 or more cans, easily.

  5. #5
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    Todd,

    Good point... However, your lacquer is a pre-cat lacquer, not a regular nitrocellulous rattle can lacquer. Catalyzed lacquers are very durable.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
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    I have a related question if you dont mind..

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    I suggest varnish, you can coat the slats before you assemble the rails or you can use the wipe-on approach to do the assembled rails.
    MY projects are completely grain filled and levelled with dissolved shellac. The surface is as smooth as glass..

    Can I get away with the least number of thin coats as possible with the wipe on varnish.. Say 2 or 3 coats?

    Thanks, Joel

  7. #7
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    What is it? A table or crib; I would say you need more than that to protect. Something that sees little touch or abuse you will be fine with 4 wipe on coats.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  8. #8
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    My Projects are veneered Speaker cabinets.

    I'm ok with little less protection but want a real even sheen with the ability to adjust from satin to gloss for each pair..

    Thanks, Joel

  9. #9
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    Oil based varnish is much more durable than standard NC lacquer. In addition, spray can lacquer is highly thinned and many coats are required to build a durable finish.

    If you don't want to brush on a finish, try thinning the varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits and wipe on the finish. 5-6 coats should give you a nice, durable finish. Test it out on scrap before you commit to your project.
    Howie.........

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Acheson View Post
    Oil based varnish...
    What would you all recommend and where should I get it???

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold Burrell View Post
    What would you all recommend and where should I get it???
    waterlox or belhens. can be had at various place like rockler, or woodcraft. i usually get my waterlox direct as there is no local dealer near me.

  12. #12
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    Waterlox Original, Behlans, Pratt & Lambert 38 and Sherwin Williams varnish are all fine. While if wouldn't recommend it for nice furniture, there is nothing wrong with using a poly varnish on a changing table. Any big box will have a couple or brands. Mixwax is everywhere and will work. Carefully and completely follow the label directions.

    If you are unfamiliar with finishing, test out your finish on some scrap.
    Howie.........

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