Looking for a non yellowing finish

[Brian Brown]

When finishing holly or other woods where you don't want a color change, what finish options are available? Lacquer seems to work, but I don't know about the long term "non yellowing" characteristics of lacquer. I also have a problem with runs and sags with lacquer if I put on heavy enough coats to avoid the textured (orange peel) look. I have considered CA, but it is not economical for large pieces. My wife made some hair sticks from holly and box elder burl, and they are off the lathe now. She used CA on a blue dyed Box elder burl piece, and over a period of 3 months it turned bright green (blue dye, + yellowed finish = green). I have had the same problem with BEB pens. A natural colored BEB pen turned bright lemon yellow in a few weeks. Pretty, but not what I wanted. I think there is a reaction with CA and something in the BEB. Any thoughts on available and durable finishes that will allow the natural color to be maintained over a long period?

[Prashun Patel]

I've heard a lot of good things about the General Finishes Wood Turners' Finish. I believe that's a waterbased varnish. As such, I'd bet it's non-yellowing. But I'm not sure; John Keeton did a thread about it recently. You might ask him.

[John Keeton]

General WTF is a hybrid (water and oil) polyurethane finish with a light amber hue. The MSDS does not list oil, but the description would indicate some oil content. It does impart a slight amber color when applied, but I have not used it long enough to know whether it will darken over time. Lacquer is probably the safest bet for that, or perhaps an acrylic finish - either water born or solvent based. I have used the Krylon acrylic on holly and it seems to remain clear.

[Montgomery Scott]

Crystalac waterborne finish is probably what you want http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/CLP-...ed-Wood-Finish

[Rob Cunningham]

Target Coatings EM9000 is another non-yellowing finish. I have sprayed it over white paint without any color-shift.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/produc...yurethane.html

[Eric Holmquist]

Similarly Target Coatings EM6000 is a non-yellowing waterborne finish that I use a lot

[Alec Moseley]

I find that lacquer doesn't yellow the work, seems to last well. To avoid the sags or orange peel effect, I buff with the Beall system after several coats have dried well.

[Deane Allinson]

Hope's 100% tung oil works pretty well.
Deane

[Ed Morgano]

Brian,
Check this one out. It's General Finishes High Performance Poly. I used it on a Cherry cabinet that i didn't want to darken and after a year, it's still the same as new. http://www.generalfinishes.com/retai...anding-sealers.

[Brent VanFossen]

I was under the impression that all oil-based and polyurethanes will yellow to some extent. Acrylics should not yellow. I used an acrylic finish on a maple cabinet I recently finished, and there is no perceptible color at all.

[dan carter]

VARATHANE" DIAMOND FLOOR FINISH works well as a non yellowing finish, when you are talking about applying a finish. But, if the product is going to be subjected to the sun's rays, it may or may not be what you are looking for. I use General WTF as well, I can't say whether it turns yellow or not after the turning has been subjected to sunshine.

[Mark Levitski]

Brian, first check out the finishing category on this forum. There are some real knowledgeable people contributing there. You could try posting your question there also.

I did a test with 5 finishes on ash, cherry, and maple to gain experience with this same thing. Waterlox Original, MinWax Antique Oil, Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil, Watco Danish Oil, and Sherwin Williams Wood Classics Fast Dry Oil Varnish. These products have slightly different resins, and as far as I know, that is primarily what determines what hues show up over time. The SW product has noticeably had the least effect on coloring the wood. Other than that, there are not many other obvious differences. We like a little amber and use AO or Waterlox most of the time.

The water-based products are an option and offer very little coloration. Some woodworkers actually tint them to add some warmth. So far, the water-based finishes are not for us.

Good luck.............Mark

[Jason Ritchie]

CA definitely reacts to some things. For one, don't tint some wood with a yellow Sharpie then apply CA over it! I found out the hard way that it reacts and turns a disturbing blood red! CA does OK with the other colors, but it just doesn't like yellow!

[Jon Nuckles]

Padding lacquer requires a lot of coats, but it is much lighter on boxelder than shellac (sealcoat). To go even lighter, I have used just Ren Wax, but you get a much more matte look and very little protection.

[Barry Elder]

Lacquer will not yellow. When I need a build up, I use brushing lacquer and throw-away brushes. But you must allow the lacquer to cure. When I was in the military I went on some tours in France and Italy and saw doors and furniture that was coated with lacquer hundreds of years ago with no yellowing.