Adhesive used for attaching plywood to steel plate..

[Joel Wesseling]

Hello All.

I need to sandwich 3/16 steel plate between 2 plywood layers.

I did this same project before and used construction adhesive. It
certainly works but the adhesive is thick and hard to spread evenly to a consistant thickness..
While clamping it wont dissipate well..

Maybe some of you have a recommended glue or 2 part expoxy..

Thanks in advance.

Joel

[Jerome Hanby]

Mr Sawdust instructs to use epoxy to attach the steel ribs between the two layers of his RAS table,,,

[John TenEyck]

Contact cement for non-structural applications, epoxy if it's structural.

John

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Here's a site I like to use: http://www.thistothat.com/

[Joel Wesseling]

Thanks,

I think the contact cement could work fine but forgot to mention gap filling is important.

I can do the gap filling before I glue in the second piece of plywood.
There's through holes in the metal and screws go through them and prefer the
holes get filled and cut srew threads well..

Does epoxy hold screws as well as plywood?

Thanks again, Joel

[Joel Wesseling]

Oh Yeh the Glue This To That site is cool, Thanks

[Chris Padilla]

Most epoxy dries hard enough that you could tap threads into it, Joel!

[Jim Heffner]

When I have a situation that requires odd things to be attached to one another, such as the one you mentioned, I generally use some of my Liquid Nails. That stuff really holds when other things WON"T! Give it a try....I'm surprised at what it does hold together!

[Mort Stevens]

While I'm not normally a big fan of it - this is an application where I would use polyurethane glue (ie "Gorilla Glue").

[Chris Parks]

Sikaflex, they glue cars together with it.

http://usa.sika.com/

[Joel Wesseling]

Thanks for all help..

I have some looking around experimenting to do before I pick..

Thanks again, Joel

[ian maybury]

On balance a liquid polyurethane like gorilla glue - because it's very easily spread, requires no mixing and is a structural/no creep adhesive. It is gap filling, but the foam that fills gaps isn't rigid (the adhesive film is) - use epoxy if the gap filling needs to be rigid.

Sikaflex is also a polyurethane, but those cartridge packed automotive structural adhesives are filled to increase the viscosity and awkward to spread.

Solvent washing with cellulose thinners or the like and roughening with sandpaper seems advisable.

Whatever the adhesive I'd be cautious about how long it might last and would want to check with a manufacturer's tech support (not a sales guy or a support line junior there because nobody else will do it - who will say whatever it takes to get a sale, but an applications engineering guy) - especially if the area is fairly large.

In that there is potentially even with ply quite a difference in rates of expansion and contraction with both heat and moisture, and the problem gets worse with size. Could be that even if it stays flat that either the adhesive or the ply will eventually fatigue and fail. Maybe expansion joints are a possibility?

ian

[Howard Acheson]

What will the panel be used for? My shop used solvent based contact adhesive to make something like you propose. Worked well. Of couse, epoxy will work fine also.

[Richard Dragin]

Epoxy. Wipe the metal down with acetone first.

[Myk Rian]

What are you making?

You could use a tile flooring trowel to spread adhesive.
Grout trowel?