Video of how to use rasps

[Noel Liogier]

I am often asked to explain how to properly use a rasp.
Rather than a long and tedious speech, I had the idea to film as an example a cabinetmaker near me doing a "deer foot" for a cabinet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1_PD...hannel&list=UL

[Don Orr]

Tres Bien!! Merci beaucoup.

[Brian Kerley]

Very cool vid! Thanks for sharing. I need to order a few rasps, and the Liogier's are really looking like my option that I'm going to go with, especially with all the new stuff you guys have been doing lately. Now, just gotta finish saving up!

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Thank you so much, Noel!!

This video is absolutely great, it shows a true master!

What I do like especially is the fact that this master craftsman shows that the rasp doesn't leave the surface of the workpiece while shaping it. Regardless if it's pushed or pulled it touches the workpiece. That's exactly what I feel to be right to achieve a good shape. There are so many rumours out there that the rasping should be done only on the pushing stroke (what's true) and while pulling back the tool, it shouldn't have contact with the workpiece otherwise it would dull quicker. I never understood that because I don't think that one can keep the control over the rasp by using it this way.

Klaus

[Ron Bontz]

Always a pleasure to watch a master craftsman at work. Thank you for posting.

Klaus, It has always been my understanding and practice to just let up on the back stroke. Leaving the rasp in place for the next stroke. Sorry I forgot who, someone told me once it was all about how you introduce the tool the work. Still not sure I completely understand that.

[Patrick McCarthy]

MBC. Very nice and instructional.

[Jim Matthews]

I must be a heathen.

I've enjoyed watching paint dry more than this.
It's a RASP, not a scalpel.

[John Coloccia]

There are so many rumours out there that the rasping should be done only on the pushing stroke (what's true) and while pulling back the tool, it shouldn't have contact with the workpiece otherwise it would dull quicker. I never understood that because I don't think that one can keep the control over the rasp by using it this way.

Klaus

I think that's a hold over from filing on metal, but doesn't seem applicable to rasps on wood. I really should cash in some spare change and get a couple of good rasps. I would except I'm not sure exactly what to order. I wish there was somewhere I could go and actually try out a few in some different sizes and configurations and decide on the ones I want.

Nice video. As I say, I think I made a good manager because I enjoy watching other people work.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Does LN have the Aurious to try at their hand tool events? They have one in CT in July; that might be worth checking out. Even if you went with another brand like the Liogers, it'd at least give you an idea.

It's nice to see the finish and speed of these in action. I'd still be tempted to remove more stock with drawknives, gouges and chisels before moving to the rasps, but the quality of my work doesn't necessarily speak to my techniques being the best.

I like the shape of that leg, I don't know if I've seen that particular style before. Of course, I'm not well-versed in traditional forms.

[Will Boulware]

Wonderfully informative video! Thank you!

[Matthew Hills]

Thank you so much, Noel!!

This video is absolutely great,

I thought it was interesting, too. I was wondering what tool he started with -- it seemed to be long, allowing significant strokes, but didn't seem especially coarse and required quite a bit of work. Would a coarser tool be a problem because it might tear out at the edges?

Also, it made me wonder why cabinetmaker rasps often have tapered tips. I rarely use that area, as that is where my leading hand is grabbing the rasp, and I have little control if just pushing the pointy end around.

I liked his support blocks. I still tend to make the mistake of working low on my bench, and suffer the consequences the rest of the week.


Out of curiosity, how long do this cabinetmaker's rasps last before he needs to replace him?



Matt

[Noel Liogier]

Thank you so much, Noel!!

This video is absolutely great, it shows a true master!

What I do like especially is the fact that this master craftsman shows that the rasp doesn't leave the surface of the workpiece while shaping it. Regardless if it's pushed or pulled it touches the workpiece. That's exactly what I feel to be right to achieve a good shape. There are so many rumours out there that the rasping should be done only on the pushing stroke (what's true) and while pulling back the tool, it shouldn't have contact with the workpiece otherwise it would dull quicker. I never understood that because I don't think that one can keep the control over the rasp by using it this way.

Klaus

I agree with that

[Prashun Patel]

I really enjoyed this video - thanks for posting. I enjoyed it bkz I loved watching that leg transform and it's always magical to me how efficiently rasps remove wood.

What I don't understand, though, is why there is any mystique about using a rasp. It's been the easiest tool for me to master - by far. I mean, it's even easier than SANDPAPER. A good rasp makes shaping so effortless, it almost feels like cheating... I'm curious what nonintuitive techniques people gleaned from this video. (Hope this doesn't come across as negative.)

[Noel Liogier]

I thought it was interesting, too. I was wondering what tool he started with -- it seemed to be long, allowing significant strokes, but didn't seem especially coarse and required quite a bit of work. Would a coarser tool be a problem because it might tear out at the edges?

Also, it made me wonder why cabinetmaker rasps often have tapered tips. I rarely use that area, as that is where my leading hand is grabbing the rasp, and I have little control if just pushing the pointy end around.

I liked his support blocks. I still tend to make the mistake of working low on my bench, and suffer the consequences the rest of the week.


Out of curiosity, how long do this cabinetmaker's rasps last before he needs to replace him?



Matt

The first rasp is 12" Flat rasp, stitching grain #6 on both sides. This is a quite coarse rasp, but yes the same rasp with a stiching grain #3 (on the other side for example to have a two in one rasp) would have done the job quicker without problem of tearing out at the edges.

IMHO the tapered tip, although not in the example shown in this vid, is a very important part, and will save you the day in many occasions.

Regarding the replacement issue, of course it depends on how much you use it. But if you are an average non-professional user, you will not have to replace it, at least before I am retiring

[Prashun Patel]

I had my Dragon rasps sharpened by Boggs. It's inexpensive and makes them cut as good as new. Because the efficiency of the rasps deteriorates gradually, it was hard for me to recognize that mine could use it. I too like a tapered end.