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Thread: Has anyone used General Fishes Enduro Var on kitchen cabs?

  1. #1
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    Has anyone used General Fishes Enduro Var on kitchen cabs?

    GF is touting it's new Enduro Var as it's top of the line, most durable top coating. http://www.generalfinishes.com/retai...based-urethane

    They say this finish will give an amber appearance which is exactly what I'm looking for on the unstained rift sawn white oak kitchen cabinets that I'm building. I've used both the tinted and clear Enduro Poly on previous jobs and was impressed.

    Does anyone know if Target makes a comparable finish to the Enduro Var?

    Thx
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  2. #2
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    ENDURO-VAR water based urethane finish is a highly ad-
    vanced self crosslinking coating. This is a highly ad-
    vanced aromatic alkyd urethane similar to traditional oil
    based varnish.""

    Lets cut through the hype ok?

    All the above really means it that it's an oil "modified" [alkyd] poly > [polymer]<- urethane copolymer [alky/poly] coating. More simply - a chemically combined co[more than one] polymer [co+polymer] resin with formal chemical bonds. to the layman, it is the same as other oil modified polys [as labeled] like minwax fast dry polys or others to numerous to detail. so if you have used such and have liked the end results, then there is little doubt you would also like this one or targets brand or Macdonalds "poly in a box" brand [joke.]

    The hype of the stated "highly advanced self crosslinking coating" is reffering to the alkyd modified+finished polymer urethane, have a determined amount of necessary tri-functional monomers for no further need of any heat or chemicals for the reaction to take place. The only other difference would be if by chance it used a more archetecturally advanced isocyanate monomer, to produce a better finished polymer to begin with. And in the field of coalescing finishes that really is not saying alot as of now. Also the use of "aromatic" would indicate the use of a petroleum aromatic solvent/diluent instead of an aliphatic like MS., to what ever degree of substitution.

    Bottom line?---------if you liked there other, i'm sure you will like this one also. No matter which company is doing the hypeing, lol
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  3. #3
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    And I thought that I was a cynic....lol.

    Actually I'm looking for feedback from folks who have personal experience using this product.

    Thanks anyway.

    Scott
    Quote Originally Posted by sheldon pettit View Post
    ENDURO-VAR water based urethane finish is a highly ad-
    vanced self crosslinking coating. This is a highly ad-
    vanced aromatic alkyd urethane similar to traditional oil
    based varnish.""

    Lets cut through the hype ok?

    All the above really means it that it's an oil "modified" [alkyd] poly > [polymer]<- urethane copolymer [alky/poly] coating. More simply - a chemically combined co[more than one] polymer [co+polymer] resin with formal chemical bonds. to the layman, it is the same as other oil modified polys [as labeled] like minwax fast dry polys or others to numerous to detail. so if you have used such and have liked the end results, then there is little doubt you would also like this one or targets brand or Macdonalds "poly in a box" brand [joke.]

    The hype of the stated "highly advanced self crosslinking coating" is reffering to the alkyd modified+finished polymer urethane, have a determined amount of necessary tri-functional monomers for no further need of any heat or chemicals for the reaction to take place. The only other difference would be if by chance it used a more archetecturally advanced isocyanate monomer, to produce a better finished polymer to begin with. And in the field of coalescing finishes that really is not saying alot as of now. Also the use of "aromatic" would indicate the use of a petroleum aromatic solvent/diluent instead of an aliphatic like MS., to what ever degree of substitution.

    Bottom line?---------if you liked there other, i'm sure you will like this one also. No matter which company is doing the hypeing, lol
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  4. #4
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    Your welcome Scott, not cynical, just factual, coupled with a dose of sarcastic humor is all, lol.

    I doubt you will get any negative responses though, even though i have not personally used it, i've used and formulated enough of them to know if you've used like products before, or others also, then it will be an affirmative answer.
    Last edited by sheldon pettit; 05-05-2012 at 5:57 PM.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  5. #5
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    I haven't used it on kitchen cabinets, but I've finished several pieces of furniture with it. Personally, I love the stuff. I spray it and have had great results. It levels out well and drys really fast. I generally scuff sand between coats with a 600 grit foam pad to keep from cutting through the finish and spray three or four coats.

    I've found the trick is to spray it on until it looks wet and shiny and keep a wet paint brush handy to wipe the rare sag away. I'm no professional when it comes to spray finishing but I've found Enduro-Var to be very easy to apply. It clings well and rarely sags unless I've been careless.

    GF's info claims it ambers over time but I really can't tell that it does.

    Pretty much either Waterlox or Enduro-Var are the only two topcoats I use anymore.

  6. Brett

    What kind of gub are you spraying it with? What tip size works best from your experience?

  7. #7
    I have actually used it to refinish a floor and wanted to have the amber look of oil but in a waterborne product. It dries fast (re-coat in two hours) and has barely any odor. We moved the furniture in the next day and it is holding up well after a month. I will use it again.

    I don't think Sheldon bothered to read the label otherwise he would know that it's not an oil based product which makes his reply even funnier than he thinks.

  8. #8
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    lol your right
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  9. #9
    Richard , hate to dissapoint, but it IS oil modified

  10. #10
    Charles, I stand corrected. In my haste to be right I was wrong! Sorry Sheldon.

    I know the only difference between Enduro-Var and other waterborne is the amber dye to resemble an oil finish and General Finishes uses a lot of hyperbole in their marketing. Are we better off shopping for the best price as opposed to any particular brand?

  11. #11
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    Even though the answers are educational from a chemical standpoint, I think that they are getting a bit too technical for simply asked questions. Sheldon is very knowledgeable on the subject, but the question was simply asked if anyone had used the product and how did they like or not like it and why? There are folks out there that have used this product for kitchen cabinets and Scott is looking for some feedback on how the stuff applied, any problems encountered in doing so and how is the stuff holding up.
    There was another post where the discussion turned to the correct application of the term "cure" vs. "dry" before rubbing out. I felt the term "let it sit" for whatever period of time before final rub-out, was sufficient for most of us lay people to understand.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad Fiore View Post
    Even though the answers are educational from a chemical standpoint, I think that they are getting a bit too technical for simply asked questions. Sheldon is very knowledgeable on the subject, but the question was simply asked if anyone had used the product and how did they like or not like it and why? There are folks out there that have used this product for kitchen cabinets and Scott is looking for some feedback on how the stuff applied, any problems encountered in doing so and how is the stuff holding up.
    There was another post where the discussion turned to the correct application of the term "cure" vs. "dry" before rubbing out. I felt the term "let it sit" for whatever period of time before final rub-out, was sufficient for most of us lay people to understand.
    I agree, and not to worry, i will be posting little more here, and when i do i will try to keep it as simple as possible unless some one is asking for more complex information. you have plenty of good advisors already with Scott and others, my presence here is really not needed to any real degree, and i understand that.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  13. #13
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    Sheldon,
    Not trying to run you off by any means. Your information is invaluable with regards to history and background of various finishes and finishing techniques. My only request is that maybe you can dumb-it-down for the likes of me so that I can better understand some of the tech-talk.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad Fiore View Post
    Sheldon,
    Not trying to run you off by any means. Your information is invaluable with regards to history and background of various finishes and finishing techniques. My only request is that maybe you can dumb-it-down for the likes of me so that I can better understand some of the tech-talk.
    I will honestly make the effort my friend, lol, but again, Scott and others do a very good job of that already, i really will try to limit my post to when i see a need for further understanding of something being discussed that is neither being taken into consideration or being what i call faceted information, meaning there is more to it as to what is being discussed and or considered ok? Things like the new post asking for whether or not the back of plywood should be sealed also when applying to a wall, can be answered by many others on here and for that reason i feel it unnecessary to do so. and that is where i will stay, in the background, til and when such as i may offer will be helpful in some way for better understanding
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Dragin View Post
    Charles, I stand corrected. In my haste to be right I was wrong! Sorry Sheldon.

    I know the only difference between Enduro-Var and other waterborne is the amber dye to resemble an oil finish and General Finishes uses a lot of hyperbole in their marketing. Are we better off shopping for the best price as opposed to any particular brand?
    Well i was wrong actually as to referring to substitution of aromatics as to aliphatic, which would be the case in a solvent based modified oil/poly. Thus my "your correct" answer. And actually due to that i also found my answer funny, lol.

    As i also said, there is the possibility that with the newer advanced urethane polymers that there could quite well be enough advantage to using such, meaning it may well perform substantially better than another older chemistry, at least enough to be worthwhile. But i really don't think you will find it so much more advanced that let's say it will give twice the performance of the former, only an increase.

    As to buying the cheapest VS. the best? In aqueous/emulsion/coalescing coatings, i would suggest keeping up with the latest advances if possible, as to buying older technology. This is ongoing technology that will keep improving incrementally as time goes on. Not that it means you should throw out what you have or not use it if it's already proven itself, just that if something better is available it's good to get acquainted with it to see how much more it offers than what your presently using.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

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