Has anyone used General Finishes Enduro Var?

[scott vroom]

I'm looking for a finish for my RSWO kitchen cab project. I've used GF Enduro Poly on past projects but don't want a gin-clear finish, and don't want to stain. GF Enduro Var has an amber hue, which is what I'm looking for....I think. I'm looking for feedback from folks that have actually used the Enduro Var.....how much amber? How durable in a kitchen environment?

Enduro-Var-250px.jpg

[Craig McCormick]

Sorry I can't answer your question about the particular finish, but I use Mohawk Finishing products. I can add one of their tints to any of their clear finishes. Today I'm spraying a tinted pre cat lacquer over white washed cabinets. When I am done they will look refinished with a dark stain without stripping off the old white wash finish.

AZCRAIG

[Phil Thien]

I've used it. The toner or dye they have added is very, very subtle. I'm not sure it does much for me.

The finish itself seems pretty durable. But personally, I wouldn't use any of these water-based finishes in a kitchen or bathroom. IMHO, they just don't stand up to Wear and Tear. Have you met my kids, Wear and Tear?

[Richard Dragin]

I used it on a floor and really liked the tone, it looks like an oil finish to me. There was no smell and you could walk on it the same day, waited another day to move furniture back in. I think a waterborne finish is fine for kitchen cabinets and the new formulas are much better/durable in the last few years. Your family will appreciate the lack of VOC's.

[Mac McQuinn]

When looking for a finish for a recent project, I was talking to the local WoodCraft owner and believe they used this product on countertops in the store. She spoke very highly of it and considering the amount of stuff slid across it on a daily basis, it appears to be very durable. Did not seem to be a lot of color to it so if you're looking for something w/ just a bit of amber and goes on very easily and is durable this could be the finish you're looking for.
Good luck w/ your project.
Mac

[scott vroom]

Phil, what finish would you consider more durable than water born acrylic poly? What would you recommend for kitchen cabinets? I'm not married to WB poly but it does get very high ratings for durability and water resistance.

Scott

I've used it. The toner or dye they have added is very, very subtle. I'm not sure it does much for me.

The finish itself seems pretty durable. But personally, I wouldn't use any of these water-based finishes in a kitchen or bathroom. IMHO, they just don't stand up to Wear and Tear. Have you met my kids, Wear and Tear?

[Phil Thien]

Phil, what finish would you consider more durable than water born acrylic poly? What would you recommend for kitchen cabinets? I'm not married to WB poly but it does get very high ratings for durability and water resistance.

Scott

I'd use an oil-based product.

I agree that water-based products have come a long way. But, IMHO, they are nowhere near as water resistant as oil-based varnishes.

[Peter Quinn]

I've used it on QSWO and some birch drawer fronts for a client in a busy kitchen with kids. Tough stuff. I have it in my own house on the floor under my toilet, my 5 year old does not have perfect aim, the floor holds up beautifully. It sprays great, brushes decent. I toned it a bit with an amber dye to match existing cabinets for a client. I had to match 7 year old birch cabs in full sun, so not much out of a can is going to be perfect. On the oak, it's better than most water white WB finish, but it's not as deep as a coat of tung oil, it's just a bit too subtle for my taste. I feel like RSWO could use a light wash of a dye stain to set the tone and equalize the color, then the enduro var over the top would bring it all together.

There is tougher stuff in the world, like conversion varnishes and 2k urathanes ( some of the toughest are WB), but it's nasty stuff that would be hard to pull of with basic equipment in a small shop. I'd sure take enduro var over something like Xl 89 for toughness.

[scott vroom]

Peter, are you referring to something along the lines of trans-tine from Homestead? Is it easy to use? How does it "equalize the color"? My experience is that traditional stains don't equalize color; the color inconsistency remains but is overall darker.

Thanks

I've used it on QSWO and some birch drawer fronts for a client in a busy kitchen with kids. Tough stuff. I have it in my own house on the floor under my toilet, my 5 year old does not have perfect aim, the floor holds up beautifully. It sprays great, brushes decent. I toned it a bit with an amber dye to match existing cabinets for a client. I had to match 7 year old birch cabs in full sun, so not much out of a can is going to be perfect. On the oak, it's better than most water white WB finish, but it's not as deep as a coat of tung oil, it's just a bit too subtle for my taste. I feel like RSWO could use a light wash of a dye stain to set the tone and equalize the color, then the enduro var over the top would bring it all together.

There is tougher stuff in the world, like conversion varnishes and 2k urathanes ( some of the toughest are WB), but it's nasty stuff that would be hard to pull of with basic equipment in a small shop. I'd sure take enduro var over something like Xl 89 for toughness.

[Phil Thien]

I've used it on QSWO and some birch drawer fronts for a client in a busy kitchen with kids. Tough stuff. I have it in my own house on the floor under my toilet, my 5 year old does not have perfect aim, the floor holds up beautifully. It sprays great, brushes decent. I toned it a bit with an amber dye to match existing cabinets for a client. I had to match 7 year old birch cabs in full sun, so not much out of a can is going to be perfect. On the oak, it's better than most water white WB finish, but it's not as deep as a coat of tung oil, it's just a bit too subtle for my taste. I feel like RSWO could use a light wash of a dye stain to set the tone and equalize the color, then the enduro var over the top would bring it all together.

There is tougher stuff in the world, like conversion varnishes and 2k urathanes ( some of the toughest are WB), but it's nasty stuff that would be hard to pull of with basic equipment in a small shop. I'd sure take enduro var over something like Xl 89 for toughness.

Water (for example, a freshly washed glass returned to a cabinet before it is completely dry) will make it under the Enduro I've used. The water will evaporate before getting under an oil-based varnish.

Anything with alcohol in it (mixed drink) will go through the Enduro about 10x faster than the water did.

Don't get me wrong, I like the water-based products. But they really aren't, IMHO, as abrasion or liquid resistant as the oil-based stuff.

YMMV.

[scott vroom]

Phil, I've read numerous articls claiming that the higher end water based polys that incorporate cross-linking technology are the equal of solvent based finishes in hardness and durability including exposure to water and liquor.

Water (for example, a freshly washed glass returned to a cabinet before it is completely dry) will make it under the Enduro I've used. The water will evaporate before getting under an oil-based varnish.

Anything with alcohol in it (mixed drink) will go through the Enduro about 10x faster than the water did.

Don't get me wrong, I like the water-based products. But they really aren't, IMHO, as abrasion or liquid resistant as the oil-based stuff.

YMMV.

[Richard Dragin]

Water (for example, a freshly washed glass returned to a cabinet before it is completely dry) will make it under the Enduro I've used. The water will evaporate before getting under an oil-based varnish.

Anything with alcohol in it (mixed drink) will go through the Enduro about 10x faster than the water did.

Don't get me wrong, I like the water-based products. But they really aren't, IMHO, as abrasion or liquid resistant as the oil-based stuff.

YMMV.

Maybe we are talking about two separate products because none of what you are saying have I found to be true.

[Phil Thien]

I used it on a cabinet in my half bath. The cabinet's top, bottom, and two sides are pine and painted with a General Finishes milk paint. The shelves are cherry and finished with Enduro Var. I had to throw away and replace two shelves because water penetrated the finish and changed the color of the wood underneath, leaving unsightly spots. It was not a lot of water, just a wet bottom of a glass.

I'm posting a picture of said cabinet, with the remainder of the can of finish I used.

I have left instructions w/ Wear and Tear not to leave anything even the smallest bit wet on the shelves.

Maybe I got a bad can, I don't know. I tried calling General Finishes about the problem, and got disconnected three times over two days, and gave up.

Scott, you asked for personal experience, that is all I'm reporting. Hope this doesn't ruffle feathers too much.

I probably got a bad can.

[Richard Dragin]

Anything with alcohol in it (mixed drink) will go through the Enduro about 10x faster than the water did............ I probably got drunk in the can.

I think this explains a lot.

[Peter Quinn]

Peter, are you referring to something along the lines of trans-tine from Homestead? Is it easy to use? How does it "equalize the color"? My experience is that traditional stains don't equalize color; the color inconsistency remains but is overall darker.

Thanks

Yup, something like transtints is what I'm thinking of. I like the powders from Lockwood, but the transtints might be easier to use as a toner given you don't have to brew them. I used an amber dye from hood finishing that I happened to have on hand. Also keep in mind that general sells a separate cross linking agent to further enhance its durability should you find at neccessary. I have not. I'm not sure what happened to Phil's medicine cabinet, but I have not had any issues with enduro var, and that is the same can in the pics. I have it on the medicine cabinet in my own bathroom too! It's mahogany, no water issues, but I've never put my margarita down on it though!