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Thread: How to grind short chisels with wolverine rest

  1. #1
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    How to grind short chisels with wolverine rest

    I recently installed the wolverine system on my grinder and really like it accept for when I want to grind a shorter chisel. The handle doesn't allow me to rest the chisel flat on the rest. Longer chisels and plane blades are fine as are my turning tools. For now I had to put back the crap little rest to grind an old chisel. I know someone has macgivered themselves a way around this so please share. Thanks, John....

  2. Quote Originally Posted by john davey View Post
    I recently installed the wolverine system on my grinder and really like it accept for when I want to grind a shorter chisel. The handle doesn't allow me to rest the chisel flat on the rest. Longer chisels and plane blades are fine as are my turning tools. For now I had to put back the crap little rest to grind an old chisel. I know someone has macgivered themselves a way around this so please share. Thanks, John....
    Just lever it off the leading edge of the rest. The tool doesn't have to register flat on the face of the tool rest.

    You actually might find grinding easier if you use the rest in this way, rather than the friction caused by moving the entire back of a chisel or plane cutter registered flat all along the rest (or substitute block of wood or whatever). Just tip it up onto the edge of the base, rest the edge on the wheel, set the angle, and grind.
    Last edited by Charlie Stanford; 05-10-2012 at 6:37 AM.

  3. #3
    Or clamp a piece of wood that is narrower than the rest. It has to be thick enough for the handle to clear, but that shouldn't take maybe 3/8" or so. I made one and buried some magnets in the back so I can just stick it on, and notched out the front so I could get closer to the wheel. Don't hang it too far overboard or you'll find it and maybe your wheel in small pieces........

    Rich
    *** "I have gained insights from many sources... experts, tradesman & novices.... no one has a monopoly on good ideas." Jim Dailey, SMC, Feb. 19, 2007
    *** "The best way to get better is to leave your ego in the parking lot."----Eddie Wood, 1994
    *** We discovered that he had been educated beyond his intelligence........
    *** Student of Rigonomics & Gizmology

    Waste Knot Woods
    Rice, VA

  4. #4
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    I cheat, simply put the existing bevel down on the stationary sanding station.

  5. #5
    So here's some pics to what I do. This block is about 1/2" thick. If I was to do again, I might offset the magnets towards the rear a bit more. I've had no problems with this cantilevering, but you can add a clamp at each end if you feel the need. IMG_1029.JPGIMG_1030.JPGIMG_1031.JPGIMG_1032.JPG The last pic shows what I believe to be the first chisel I ever bought, a Millers Falls, pushing 40 years ago. It's a great can opener and glue removal tool.........
    Last edited by Richard Jones; 05-10-2012 at 5:27 AM.
    *** "I have gained insights from many sources... experts, tradesman & novices.... no one has a monopoly on good ideas." Jim Dailey, SMC, Feb. 19, 2007
    *** "The best way to get better is to leave your ego in the parking lot."----Eddie Wood, 1994
    *** We discovered that he had been educated beyond his intelligence........
    *** Student of Rigonomics & Gizmology

    Waste Knot Woods
    Rice, VA

  6. #6
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    Thanks Richard. That looks like it will do it just fine....John

  7. #7
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    I was thinking....scary huh! That if one had a 1/2 inch thick piece of steel instead of wood, that the magnets would hold better and you'd keep the heat sink qualities of the base plate.

    Just a thought.

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