Which hammer should I buy?

[Larry Edgerton]

I don't know why, but our local Habitat does not allow power nailers on their house building sites. .

Really? Thats just nonsense.

I have used a True Temper 20 oz. long handle for ever. It is so well balanced that I use it for trim as well. When they quit making them I ordered 2 dozen. I have three left.

They can still be found on ebay, and a company called Barco originally made them for True Temper. Stanleys had one that looked like it but the rubber on the handle was less grippy, and the handle was mild steel instead of Chrome-Moly.

If I had more I'd give you one. I used to give them to every new employee. I used to throw their Estwings out in the lake and hand them a Rocket.

Larry

[Floyd Mah]

Perhaps you should examine your technique. It might not be the hammer that makes the biggest difference. Excuse the detail following, but since you needed to ask about the hammer, I'm assuming that your day job is not carpentry. I'm not an expert on home carpentry, but having used a hammer on occasion, I would compare the technique to swinging a tennis racket on serving. Your main goal is to accelerate the head of the hammer (or racquet), the handle is only there for you to get the head in motion. Think of throwing the hammer head at the nail. If you form a rigid attachment to the handle with your hand or grip, then you would absorb the shock of the hammer's handle when you strike the nail. That would be very fatiguing. In my opinion, if you are going to be using a hammer on a prolonged basis throughout a day, your ideal hammer is one that is not too heavy, but still has enough mass so that when you swing it with the required force, it will drive the nail in. I guess what I am trying to say is that only you can decide what's a comfortable weight to swing, despite all the great recommendations. Once you have a good technique, you can sink a 3" nail into 2x lumber using just two or three blows with a relatively light hammer.

[Sam Murdoch]

. Once you have a good technique, you can sink a 3" nail into 2x lumber using just two or three blows with a relatively light hammer.

With respect, I'd like to see the video supporting that theory, and then see the doctor's report on the condition of the hammerer's elbow.

[John Christian]

i bet i have a dozen hammers around some fiberglass with 16 to 22 oz heads and 3 or four estwings. when i used to swing a hammer regularly, for money, my favorite was a 28 oz Plumb with a wooden handle. i still have the head some where. i think a wooden handle is best to maximize striking power and minimise strain

[Van Huskey]

What I am gathering is hammers are like drivers for golfers. Everyone has tried more than one (usually many) and everyone has their favorite. I also am like Larry the idea of no nail guns seems nuts, but I can see the reasoning.

[Zach Callum]

In 2002 I purchased a Stiletto titanium hammer, and have never regretted it. Before it, my elbow's would ache up a storm after a day spent pounding nails. Afterward, much less pain (if any).

It's been used so much the grooves on the face are totally worn smooth. It's still my go-to hammer, and everybody that has worked at the farm these past 10 years will choose it over any others, if they get the chance.

Not cheap, but well worth it, especially in your situation.

I like the wooden handle version with the crook at the bottom end.

Totally agree.

[Floyd Mah]

With respect, I'd like to see the video supporting that theory, and then see the doctor's report on the condition of the hammerer's elbow.

Took me a few minutes to find this video. Especially since everyone uses pneumatic tools these days. Admittedly, this guy is a pro, but around 1:40 he starts using framing nails and a hammer to pound nails in. Usually takes him three blows, a few times he took four blows. I tried it myself in the garage, but having not been using a hammer regularly, I cannot count myself an expert. I used a 20 oz. hammer, at the low end of the hammers mentioned here. I did not count the first tap to embed the nail the first 1/4" since I didn't want to sacrifice my hand to prove this point. I was able to sink all but the last 1/4" of a 3" nail with three blows. Ok, so not exactly 2-3 blows, but certainly respectable for my first attempt.

As for the elbow injury, watch his technique. He bounces the hammer head off the nail. He never, except when pounding the sheathing, holds the hammer tightly in his hand (which would make his whole arm, up to his shoulder, absorb the blow of the hammer). He also, because of his experience, is able to raise the hammer higher above the point of impact and uses the energy of the falling hammer head to drive the nail. I suspect those people who experience a lot of elbow pain, besides the repetitive stress injury, have the following factors: too heavy a hammer, off-center hits on the nail (causing the hammer head to twist the handle), and a rigid grip on the handle, thereby absorbing the shock of the hammer blows.

[Bruce Darrow]

When I was framing (another lifetime ago.....) in CO, the hammer of choice was a Vaughn 28 oz - wooden handled, waffle headed. I've still got the old beast - it's displayed for sentimental reasons on my pegboard. When I was prepping to build my current house, about ten years ago, knowing I was going to be driving 20's (I built with native rough sawn spruce - full 2" thick), I bought another Vaughn, this one 24 oz, same configuration. Even though I still had the technique (see below), I figured I wouldn't want to swing that 28 all day long.

The 24 is a very nice hammer. Driving into spruce, as opposed to the fir in CO, it has plenty enough weight and balance to drive even 20's in 2 blows - set it and swat it.

The technique is to use the wrist and let the hammer just drop onto the nail to set it, then snap the wrist on the second swing to drive it home. Very little arm or shoulder, lots of wrist. The bigger hammers, used correctly, are actually much less fatiguing than smaller ones. The larger circumference heads make mishits less likely, and a (sharp) waffle also helps drive a nail straight if slightly mishit. A complete miss on the set however does result in the aforementioned meat tenderization!

The Vaughns are reasonably priced - I'm with those who choke at the thought of an $80 + hammer. If you value the advantage of a sharp waffle, don't hit anything other than nails, though. No cat's paws, wonderbars, rocks, cinderblocks, etc. We used to carry a second, smooth face hammer for those tasks, but if you aren't in the rush that a pro framing crew had to be in prior to the advent of pneumatics, you could just go get one.....or, in a pinch, use the side of the hammer.

Have a ball - framing can be a lot of fun. Lots of visual accomplishment in a short period of time. I (sometimes......) miss it.

[Floyd Mah]

I have to defer to Bruce's better description of the wrist action in the act of hammering, especially since he is also claiming to be able to drive in a substantial nail with a few(2) blows. I am curious to know if he experienced any injuries attributable to the technique that he described.

[Bruce Darrow]

Well, Floyd, as I approach the big 6-0, I can't say that any of my increasing minor aches and pains aren't attributable to repetitive actions in my early years, but......

My wrists are not particularly problematic. I do have recurring bouts of "tennis (read carpenter's) elbow". My shoulders are fine. My left hip really worries me, long term. Tendons in both thumbs have gotten inflamed. I currently have one very sore knee. My neck has given me problems. And on and on it goes. Youth is wasted on the young. Poor me.

Of course, many years spent ski racing (with some spectacular crashes) and guiding whitewater paddle rafts (one sided muscular development - creates major imbalances) might have something to do with all my aches......years of carpentry and woodworking are just more wear and tear. Maybe I should have just sat on the couch all these years!

[John A langley]

Floyd - When I framed in California it was set and sink. Two blows 98% of the framers used wooden handle hammers. I suffer pretty much from the same ailments as Bruce does. and I do not attribute it all to framing - some of it is just damn old age. I got ten years on Bruce. And I will restate the OP, a wooden handle hammer is the only way to go.

[Rick Moyer]

Possibly Rick, but that quote wasn't from the OP

Maybe the rules are universal? I have no idea, but since the OP didn't mention anything about a youth group, or any ban on powered nailers, I wasn't going to assume, I'll leave that to....well, others

JeffD

Your right , Jeff. My bad, sorry!

[Lee Schierer]

Okay, so here's an update. After considering all the suggestions here, I tried several prospective hammers in the store for "feel". I ended up buying a 20 Oz Estwing. I worked all week a the local Habitat project. I pounded a lot of nails mostly 10d and 16d sinkers. The Estwing claimed to have the "World's Best Shock Reduction Grip" The Estwing performed much better than my old hammer particularly when driving the 16d nails. My hand and wrist held up pretty well considering that I don't pound nails every day. Other than the ringing on every hit on a nail, I'm satisfied with the hammer.

[Rick Thom]

Yes, why not pneumatic nailer and compressor? Much more efficient.

[Lee Schierer]

Yes, why not pneumatic nailer and compressor? Much more efficient.

Apparently Habitat International does not allow powered nailers in their rules, although some local Habitat Organizations do. Our local organization does not allow power nailers of any type as there are many non-professional people working on each project. The sound of 15-20 people nailing is pretty impressive.