looking for a fast setting wood glue

[Ronald Blue]

Are these indoor craft shows? If not maybe a small generator. Some of them are very quiet. Just one other option for electric.

[Howard Acheson]

3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. It's sort of like contact cement in a spray can.

Yup, that's the stuff to use. A quick spritz on each part, wait a couple of minutes and place the part in position. Only caveat, you only get one chance to place the parts. The joint is instantaneous.

[David Hawxhurst]

just going to throw this out there since it wasn't mentioned yet: 5 minute epoxy.

[Barry Richardson]

Hide glue would fit the bill. Titebond makes a pre-mixed version. Of course if you lived here in AZ with the heat and low humidity, yellow glue will set up in a couple of minutes

[Chris Fournier]

Go to an industrial adhesives supplier in your area and ask about quick set PVAs, they exist! Veneer Systems in Naigara Falls NY comes to mind.

[ian maybury]

My guess is that the trick is going to be to find something fast curing that isn't quite expensive.

To pick up on Chris' suggestion of PVA. Might there be an option to use the heat re-activation capability of one of the old style basic 'white glue' PVAs? (not the fancy 'waterproof' ones) Coat both surfaces in advance (making parts at home?), and let them dry. Use an electric clothes iron or use some sort of hot laminating press to stick the parts together? It won't necessarily be a very strong joint by structural standards, but that may not matter.

If coating and sticking have to be done shortly after each other it's possible that one of the specialist post forming PVAs used by those making counter tops and the like might make this possible. These guys come up on Google: http://www.wilsonartadhesives.com/pr...uctSearch.aspx I'm not sure, but I think some of the variants they use air dry in a few minutes (in warm conditions), and the parts are then laid on top of each other and the bond is made as above using moderate heat and pressure.

These guys came up too, they might be a better supplier for smaller quantities of specialist heat activated stuff: http://www.basicadhesives.com/heatact.htm

Two part polyurethane or epoxy that can be dispensed from a twin cartridge pack or twin syringe hand gun through a static mixer nozzle might be another option - you would need a good supply of spare nozzles though.

Hot melt won't allow much time for positioning.

Superglues are not waterproof, quite brittle and fume/cause blooming on smooth surfaces unless a low odour version is used. They are fast with an activator.

There are various polyurethane, acrylic and epoxy glues from industrial suppliers that cure when hit with the right frequency of UV light, and there are small hand lamps available for this. These get used mostly in electronics assembly, are not necessarily suited to larger bonds/thick glue films and a bit specialist.

ian

[Jim Finn]

[QUOTE=Joe Hillmann; I have played with hot glue and it works but often times at shows electric either costs $10 more per day or isn't available at all.
QUOTE]
I run one of my scroll saws , a fan and a sander at street fairs using a battery and an inverter. Got them localy at a "Battery Joes"
...................I run it for 10 hours or so and recharge when I get home.

[Sid Matheny]

Back when I did a lot of scroll sawing I used Aleene's Tacky Glue. It seems to dry rather quickly and worked well for me.

Sid

[Joe Hillmann]

What are you using for a battery?

[QUOTE=Jim Finn;1929848]

I run one of my scroll saws , a fan and a sander at street fairs using a battery and an inverter. Got them localy at a "Battery Joes"
...................I run it for 10 hours or so and recharge when I get home.

[Jim Finn]

I computed the amp. draw of my equipment and length of time I wanted to run it, and bought a deep cycle battery capable of running my stuff. I also sized the inverter that way. The battery I ended up with is a bit smaller than a car battery is and a little larger than most motorcycle batteries. It measures 8"x 5" x 6" tall and is rated at 35 Amp hours. 12 volt. (Universal brand UB12350) The inverter will run 3.3 amps.(400 watts) To double check my computations I told the guy at the battery store what I wanted and he confirmed what I had figured. I had a 6 amp charger to recharge the battery, already.

[Joe Hillmann]

I computed the amp. draw of my equipment and length of time I wanted to run it, and bought a deep cycle battery capable of running my stuff. I also sized the inverter that way. The battery I ended up with is a bit smaller than a car battery is and a little larger than most motorcycle batteries. It measures 8"x 5" x 6" tall and is rated at 35 Amp hours. 12 volt. (Universal brand UB12350) The inverter will run 3.3 amps.(400 watts) To double check my computations I told the guy at the battery store what I wanted and he confirmed what I had figured. I had a 6 amp charger to recharge the battery, already.

If doing the shows this summer go as well as they did last year I plan to eventually have a similar set up, running the laser from a pair of deep cycle batteries, I realize that that is completely off topic from my original question but since it is my thread I think it is ok to hijack.