Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: How to route tenons on a long work piece like a bed rail

  1. #1

    How to route tenons on a long work piece like a bed rail

    Has anyone used a Leigh FMT jig to work on long work pieces?
    Things like bed rails don't stand up under the FMT at my work bench. I'm wondering about if a FMT could be used in other than a table top position?

    Perhaps another method is preferred to cut tenons on ends of a long bed rail (about 84" long).

    Thanks,
    ...Patrick

  2. #2
    A dado blade on an RAS would make short work of it if you have one.

    I cut most of my tenons with a dado blade on my TS using the miter gauge and a stop block. bed rails would be unwieldy though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    I had to respond even though I have not used an FMT for anything long. When I read your post I saw myself with the FMT clamped to the edge of my second floor loft bench with a bed rail hanging down and my wife looking up trying to scream at me over the router and vacuum!
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Columbia, TN
    Posts
    535
    I'd try to make a jig to guide a router with a bearing bit or pull out a handsaw and cut them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    2,066
    I have cut the shoulders on the tablesaw and the cheeks on the bandsaw.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    I once saw a FMT and a ladder combo. Another pic had it on a 2nd story deck. Not safe looking to me at all.

    Just make a right angle jig and use the router on the face for teh tenons. Use a hollow chisel mortiser or drill out and finish with chisels for the mortise.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    This is a throw-away jig for some half laps on longer pieces. Takes just a few minutes to build to your purpose. This one was for half laps but could do tenons easy enough. A template collar and a straight bit are used. One piece is a stop to set the length of the tenon. The sides are made just a bit shorter than your material is thick so you can clamp it down and rout away the waste. Once your done you can toss it.

    CoD Parts lap joint 1.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 2.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 3.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 4.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 6.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 5.jpg
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    I once clamped my FMT to my neighbor's 2nd floor deck railing (mounted backwards). so I could put tenons on some long stock. Of course, it was done with his permission. The only problem that I had was clamping the work in position without being able to see what I was doing. The actual routing went very well.

    Charley

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Delray Beach, Florida
    Posts
    212
    Patrick,

    When I faced a similar problem, I solved it by making the simple jig following the directions in ShopNotes.
    http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/w...leTenonJig.pdf

    Bill

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Milwaukee
    Posts
    907
    long ago when I made my first bed I used an idea I saw in FWW. I think it was in an article by Christian Becksvoort on his pencil post bed. It's a jig you clamp to the end of the long rails that provides a surface to guide a router with a rabbeting bit to make the tenon. After you're done with the tenon, then you make the mortise.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Columbia, TN
    Posts
    535
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    This is a throw-away jig for some half laps on longer pieces. Takes just a few minutes to build to your purpose. This one was for half laps but could do tenons easy enough. A template collar and a straight bit are used. One piece is a stop to set the length of the tenon. The sides are made just a bit shorter than your material is thick so you can clamp it down and rout away the waste. Once your done you can toss it.

    CoD Parts lap joint 1.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 2.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 3.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 4.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 6.jpgCoD Parts lap joint 5.jpg

    This is like what I was imagining. Cool application Glenn.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
    Posts
    970
    Glenn, I always enjoy your posts and learn alot just seeing how you do things. Thank you for your generosity sharing with the rest of us. Hope to actually meet you one of these days. Patrick

  13. #13

    Cool This is the best jig for bed rails

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rogers View Post
    Patrick,

    When I faced a similar problem, I solved it by making the simple jig following the directions in ShopNotes.
    http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/w...leTenonJig.pdf

    Bill
    This is the best jig I've found for bed rails. Thanks Bill!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,281
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick McKinley View Post
    Has anyone used a Leigh FMT jig to work on long work pieces?
    Things like bed rails don't stand up under the FMT at my work bench. I'm wondering about if a FMT could be used in other than a table top position?

    Perhaps another method is preferred to cut tenons on ends of a long bed rail (about 84" long).

    Thanks,
    ...Patrick
    Well, to state the obvious, a tenon saw or back saw is ideal.

    If you really want to use power tools, a table saw for the shoulders and a band saw for the cheeks............Rod.

  15. #15
    The long rails always need a KD fastener, whether tusk tenons or steel x-dowels or whatever.
    As such, would minimize the tenon hassles but maximize the KD issue.
    Which can be as trivial as no tenon at all.
    Made plenty of long rail tenons with the work on-end with a router, however.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •