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Thread: Moister Meter

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Moister Meter

    Would some folks give me some advice, from experience about MM? From my research the pin type seems the way to go. I would use it on predominatly 8/4 maple, walnut, cherry and white oak.

  2. #2
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    I have a Delmhorst J-4 and it does exactly what you want one to do but if I had it to do over again I would get the J-2000 with the built in wood calibrations and digital readout.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  3. #3
    I also have a J-4 I'm very happy with, except I choose it over the J-2000 I really like the analog display for whatever reason.

  4. #4
    I have a Wagner 205 that I find very handy when scoping out lumber from a dealer, the pinless meters are nice for my use as you are not pokeing holes in some lumber that you may or may not purchase. It has worked fine for my use
    Last edited by Robert LaPlaca; 05-28-2012 at 8:50 PM. Reason: Grammar

  5. #5
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    Van;
    Is there anything you don't have?

  6. #6
    Every woodshop should have one along with a meter to show relative humidity and a good chart showing the relationship between the two.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Thompson View Post
    Would some folks give me some advice, from experience about MM? From my research the pin type seems the way to go. I would use it on predominatly 8/4 maple, walnut, cherry and white oak.
    Jerry, for handheld meters I have a Delmhorst J2000X, and older Delmhorst R1000, and a Merlin model (pinless) designed for kiln operators to read 8/4 material. I have additional Delmhorst equipment installed in a DH kiln.

    Usually the J2000X and the Merlin are my first choices.

    For 8/4 material, you're going to need a model with a slide hammer in order to drive the pins 7/8" deep into the face of the boards for accurate reading. Be sure to use insulated pins; otherwise your reading will not be accurate in 8/4.

    The benefit of a high quality pinless meter is that you won't damage your lumber.

    If you choose pinless, be sure to read the specifications. Pinless meters are designed to measure MC% at specific wood depths; most common models will only read 1/2" to 3/8" deep into the wood.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    I also have a J-4 I'm very happy with, except I choose it over the J-2000 I really like the analog display for whatever reason.
    I am happy with the readout honestly but I would love the built in wood calibrations just so I don't have to look it up in the little book.

    @ Jerry, there is TONS of stuff I don't have!!!!
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    5,014
    Another Delmhorst user here, over twenty years no problems.

    I had a Mini Ligno that cost me several thousands when it malfunctioned, can not recommend.

    Larry

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Gassaway, WV
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    I think relying to much on any moisture meter can get you in trouble. I use a pin type and it will give a close indication of the surface, to get a better reading I cut the board or block in half and read the inside. I like to put dates on turning blanks which helps and also use the weight to give me an indication when it is dry enough to work.
    Fred

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,282
    I'm too poor to afford a moisture meter so I use a megger to measure the wood resistance, then look up the moisture content in a table.

    I've found that using a plain old stainless steel nail works great as a probe, I drive a couple in to half the thickness of the wood, attach aligator clips to the nails, and then put that that piece of wood in the middle of the drying stack. (This winter I ran the wires in through the basement window so I didn't even have to go outside, boy am I lazy).

    When it's down to about 14% MC, I move the wood inside to reach shop equilibrium MC...............Regards, Rod.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
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    I have a j-2000 and it does what I need. I like the species calibration and temperature correction, though in the range I work in its probably more accuracy than I really require. But it's fun to play with the little buttons and a laser thermometer. Yes, if you are going to get the j2000 you should have sone way to measure the woods temperature.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    I am surprised Delmhorst is getting the majority of the love, obviously I think they are good otherwise I would have bought somthing else, but I did expect the thread to be far more varied.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SE Indiana
    Posts
    203
    So I have a mini-Ligno E/D. You guys think that these are inaccurate? If so how inaccurate?

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    I am surprised Delmhorst is getting the majority of the love, obviously I think they are good otherwise I would have bought somthing else, but I did expect the thread to be far more varied.
    Well, the Delmhorst isn't the only one I own/have owned but it is the only one I use and recommend, and I'll leave it at that.

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