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Thread: First wooden hinges with some questions.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Fort Worth, Tx
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    First wooden hinges with some questions.

    I made my first wooden hinges today and are they nice looking, I love the look. I plan on using them on a project in the near future, a maple box with walnut hinges and walnut dovetail splines.

    The hinges are not as hard as I thought they would be to make. I use the Incra HingeCrafter and the Incra Ibox. The instructions that comes with the HingeCrafter are very good and easy to follow and the whole operation is just not that hard.

    Now for the questions:

    1. How do you hold the hinge pin in, I worry that over time the pin will work itself out?

    2. Do you cut the mortise and glue the hinges or do you drill and counter-sink holes and screw them on?

    3. Do you install them and then finishing them or do you finish them before installing?

    4. Do you finish them together or do you take them apart to do the finishing?

    Here are 2 of my test hinges.

    P6032868.jpg

    The tools to do it plus the table saw.

    The HingeCrafter
    booksplans_hinge_main_zoom.jpg

    The Ibox

    P5292864.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Northern Michigan
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    5,012
    I use wood pins on most, and I put a bit of glue on the pin when it is almost all the way in. I make my pins a little long and trim when set.

    If I use brass pins I make them a little shorter than the leaf [1/8-3/16" per end] and slip in a dowel of the same wood on each end so the brass is captured.

    I usually leave them just a touch loose and prefinish apart, then finish [spray] as normal being a little light on the spray in that area. I usually do a first coat on the box as well before install so that finish thickness is the same. I finish them apart with water base will not get sticky. Before I slip them together I lightly rub on a little Topcoat just on the moving surfaces, but not so much that it will screw with the top coat.

    I normally mortice to just a little less than pin depth and glue them in with no fasteners. Thats good enough because the hinges will break before the glue lets go.


    Hinges.jpg


    I make mine a little deeper so that I can cut them into interesting shapes, say a heart for example. Any shape that is not crossing a pin/pin joint is ok. That way they add to the work rather than looking too store bought. Sometimes I make full mortise wood hinges. These are basically L shaped with the pin out in the stub L. I am unable to download right now so no pictures of that, sorry.

    Hope I have been of some help. This is only the way I do it and it is not the way I was taught exactly, so you will find what works for you as you play, er, work.

    Larry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    I use wood pins on most, and I put a bit of glue on the pin when it is almost all the way in. I make my pins a little long and trim when set.

    If I use brass pins I make them a little shorter than the leaf [1/8-3/16" per end] and slip in a dowel of the same wood on each end so the brass is captured.

    I usually leave them just a touch loose and prefinish apart, then finish [spray] as normal being a little light on the spray in that area. I usually do a first coat on the box as well before install so that finish thickness is the same. I finish them apart with water base will not get sticky. Before I slip them together I lightly rub on a little Topcoat just on the moving surfaces, but not so much that it will screw with the top coat.

    I normally mortice to just a little less than pin depth and glue them in with no fasteners. Thats good enough because the hinges will break before the glue lets go.


    Hinges.jpg


    I make mine a little deeper so that I can cut them into interesting shapes, say a heart for example. Any shape that is not crossing a pin/pin joint is ok. That way they add to the work rather than looking too store bought. Sometimes I make full mortise wood hinges. These are basically L shaped with the pin out in the stub L. I am unable to download right now so no pictures of that, sorry.

    Hope I have been of some help. This is only the way I do it and it is not the way I was taught exactly, so you will find what works for you as you play, er, work.

    Larry
    Thanks a bunch,

    Are the wood pins strong enough, I guess they are or you wouldn't use them. It just seems like they would not be very strong and would bind with weather changes.

    I like that idea of putting the dowel in the end to cover up the brass, that would look really nice also.

    I never thought about the hinge breaking before the glue would let go, I can see now that glue is the best way to go and I think it would look better not to have the screws.

    I really do like the look of wood hinges and I think I will be using them a lot on small box projects.

    Again, Thanks.!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
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    1,511
    [QUOTE=Bill Huber;1936808]I

    2. Do you cut the mortise and glue the hinges or do you drill and counter-sink holes and screw them on?


    .

    P6032868.jpg



    I have also heard and seen pictures of people using exposed dowels to mount the hinge's as well for another kind of look out of the same or contrasting woods.
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    3,279
    the hinge pin do not to be any stronger than the part that it go thru.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    The hinges are not as hard as I thought they would be...
    Thanks for the encouragement. I just got the Ibox and HingeCrafter but haven't tried them yet.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    walnut creek, california
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    wood hinges are so cool...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Overton View Post
    Thanks for the encouragement. I just got the Ibox and HingeCrafter but haven't tried them yet.
    I think the hardest part is getting the bull nose bit set just right and making sure the wood planned to the exact thickness. With the Ibox it is really easy to get the fit right and the Hinge Crafter is so easy to use you won't have any problem there.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Green Bay
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    392
    Bill,

    I am so thrilled to see you've done this... Please see my message to you.

    Every time I see those hinge jigs go on sale I get hungry to buy and try.

    Thanks
    Joe

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Scarfo View Post
    Bill,

    I am so thrilled to see you've done this... Please see my message to you.

    Every time I see those hinge jigs go on sale I get hungry to buy and try.

    Thanks
    Joe
    PM sent...

    The Hinge Crafter is a little high prices but when you look at it and see how its made and the way it sets up I can understand the cost better.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Batavia, IL
    Posts
    53
    Bill-
    Where did you buy the hinge pins?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
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    4,756
    I just get the brass rod at Ace Hardware I am sure the are many places to get brass rod.

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