Here is a great video on bandsaw use.
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
Here is a great video on bandsaw use.
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
Direct link.
Be aware although the info is indeed good it is designed to sell Carter products, everything can be done without them though. Not saying the Carter stuff isn't good, I like most of the procuct line.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Really cool video.. I found it interesting.. Interesting that he said " no bandsaw should have drift if its set up right " ...
I'll admit to being a bandsaw "noob", but isn't drift is also a product of a blade with incorrect set?
The crap blade that came with my Rikon 10-325, would drift seemingly no matter what. Once I put the timberwolf on, all is well. My set-up process for both blades was the same.
Of course it will ... ANY SAW will pull to one side if one side of the bans/blade/chain is dulled or damaged. What is the significance of your question ??? I was stating that a PERFECT blade will drift if installed/setup improperly ... NOT that a setup can/will restore perfect tracking to a damaged blade ... it simply doesn't work that way.
I know setup is critical, my reply was to the statement "no bandsaw should have drift if its set up right" ... which is correct so long as the blade is true, that's why I mentioned incorrect set ALSO causing drift, (which can't be adjusted for), to which you first replied "NOPE", but now say "of course it will". You simply read my first comment wrong.
when i set up my bandsaw following similar procedure and before i understood how to adjust tracking properly i had all kinds of drift problems. now i understand the tracking thing i can use my miter gauge and cut 90 degrees because i don't have drift. i'm a believer in a properly set up and tracked bandsaw will not have any drift. mine doesn't.
Great video for the noob!!!! Like me!
Last edited by Mark W Pugh; 06-09-2012 at 9:57 AM.
I use Mark Duginske set up of blade on center of wheel with good results, the video recommends the teeth at center ? what are y'all using
I start there and then adjust the tracking so the saw cuts parallel to the fence..........Rod.
David;
The video recommends the deepest part of the gullut be at the center.
Which interestingly enough doesn't agree with the recommendation in the Agazzani manual which advises tracking that the teeth are to the front of the wheels - which are pretty flat.
I basically buy the thinking that says that a consistent gullet location means that only the thrust bearings need adjusting when changing to differing width blades, and also that consistent location of a given blade on the wheel should end the need to keep on adjusting the fence to tune out drift all else being equal. (on the basis that the position of the blade on the tyre camber determines what direction it's pointing.
I'm a bit less sure that always locating the gullet in the same place will ensure that all blades regardless of presumably width and tooth set will track the same. Anybody got a reason why this may be the case?
Engaging the back of the blade in a saw cut is a nifty way of checking the table is level...
ian