Tool rests and bowls

[Reed Gray]

I did check out a couple of bowl turning demos while in San Jose, and was surprised on how many turners do not use a curved bowl rest when turning bowls, and rely on extending a tool out fairly far off the tool rest when turning the inside of a bowl. Reasons were from it is just as fast to the tool rest/post gets in the way. The reason I find this confusing it that we teach to keep the tool rest close to the wood for a cleaner cut and it is easier to control the tool. Being a tinkerer, and experimenter, I do not find interior tool rests to be made the way I want. My favorite shape, but not favorite tool rest is this one:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...rve_rest?Args=

What I like about it is that with the recurve on the top end, you can work all parts of the rim, and then pivot it to work all the inside of the bowl. It keeps the tool close to the wood, and the J on the end will go through the transition and across the bottom of the bowl. I do not like the wide profile, and that it doesn't have the hardened drill rod on the top for easy sliding of the tools we use. I am trying to convince Brent English (Robust lathe and comfort rests) that he should make one like this. Maybe in larger and smaller sizes. When comparing the arc tools (made from a radius), both Oneway and Robust, I find they just don't fit the insides that well.

Comments??????

robo hippy

[Jim Burr]

Not my favorite either, but I use it all the time! It's better than getting the bevel 2" away from the surface. The stock 1642 tool rest is bad enough. The 6" Robust is better, but the one you linked is great for any kind of bowl...just MHO,, but I wouldn't try a bowl with out one.

[Jon Nuckles]

I use the stock 3520B rest for all of my bowls, but I definitely find times that a curved rest would be helpful to keep the overhang minimized when cutting inside the bowl. I have a 4 inch robust rest that I use to turn small pieces between centers, like finials and bases, and I would certainly buy one like you show if Brent made one.

[Thom Sturgill]

I picked up a rest from robust at the NC symposium last year that they were just introducing, but I do not see it on their site. They called it a 'J' rest and it was a 9" low profile rest with the right end curved back. Easy to use for most turning and when extented into a bowl provides a fair amount of support. The post is offcenter to the left. The LOML bought me a Robust inside curved rest, but since I mostly turn smaller items, I have not used it much. I have one like you showed that I bought for my first lathe, but never liked it as I felt it was just too rough.

[Scott Hackler]

I generally use the stock, straight, rest that came with my Nova 1624-44....BUT I did win a curved Robust that works very well for the inside (and outside) IF the curve of the bowl is close to the curve of the rest. My main problem with it is that I forget I have it and since the regular rest was used while roughing.... I just leave it on and finish up!


Note to self: CLEAN SHOP, SO I WILL KNOW WHAT TOOLS I HAVE!

[Prashun Patel]

I use a curved C-style inside bowl rest from Jeff Nicol. I like its stability. However, it does have a wide 'gusset' underneath that impedes the lowest possible setting for the rest. I don't really need that stability and would prefer a thinner gusset so it can reach further in.

I find more and more that I hollow bigger bowls in sections. For this, I prefer the straight rest. Mine lets me get in real close to a particular area. I switch the curved rest to 'connect' the dots.

I also use my curved rest (is this wrong?) to form the tops of my hollow vessels while still on the faceplate. I find the top part of the curve above the shoulder easier in general to form than the bottom 4/5 or 2/3. So working up at the headstock is not hard, and still allows me good access to the bottom for the blending.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I used a One Way curved rest on that 22" bowl i posted this week. It was ok, but still vibrates out near the end. Cuts can't be too heavy. It also has to be moved frequently to follow the curve of the bowl.I don't know way they beveled both sides of the rest. I guess for it could be used on the outside of the bowl. To me it puts me another 3/8" away from the surface of the bowl. They make another one for the outside. I do like the stainless steel part though.

[Noah Barfield]

I've used a D-Way S curved rest. http://www.d-waytools.com/tools-tool-rests.html It's a solid tool rest and allows easy access into bowls and platters.

[Wally Dickerman]

I turn lefty so I don't use the CS rest myself but I have one and let students use it. It's a bit too bulky IMO. I prefer the Delta curved rest, which is made both right-handed and left-handed. I have both and like them.

It's hard for me to understand but Delta has discontinued these curved rests. Amazon has a few and has them for a very reduced price. I recommend it.

Delta also makes a curved rest with a 5/8 in. post for mini lathes.

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-46-404-I...9450153&sr=1-1

[Bernie Weishapl]

I had two built by my local welder out of 3/4" SS. I do like them and they were quite reasonable.

[Dennis Ford]

I have a couple of home-made curved tool rests, one with a shallow curve and one with a deep curve. I use the shallow one quite a bit, the other is rarely used but has got me out of a bind a few times.

[Reed Gray]

I have had the same chattering problem with the big Oneway inside bowl rest, but not with the Robust one. Oneway needs to put the support finger under it that they use for their coring system. It is important for the support bar to angle away from the top bar, like the Robust one does so it will fit in side the bowl, and get close to the work, where a vertical support finger will keep you from getting close. I like the looks of the Delta S rest, it has the recurve near the top which lets you work the rim, but don't like the cast iron. The drill rod is so much better. Looking at the Johannes Michaelson tool rest, I like the hook at the far end, but not the straight sides, and it has no return hook on the top end for working the rim.

We just need a slightly different design so we can set a good example for students, and it will function better for us as turners. From guesstimating, I would expect the support finger under the drill rod to be the most difficult part to figure out. I don't think it can be cut on a straight line, but would be a compound curve, and then you would have to bend it. Probably easy to do if you have the proper CAD and CNC machines. We shall see.......

robo hippy

[John Beaver]

I have tried the curved rests, and find that sometimes the post end gets in the way whey swinging the tool around. I haven't tried an s-curve like you show Reed, but generally I just angle my rest into the bowl and find that works just fine.

[Reed Gray]

I have found that when I am running into the post, that is also the same time as when I need to change from the side wall gouge to the transition/bottom feeder gouge.

robo hippy

[Richard Allen]

Dave Lancaster, who makes hundreds of bowls each year for a living, uses curved tool rests on the outside of bowls. He has a series of different size tool rests for different size bowls. I am not sure about the inside of bowls but I know that he uses these "C" rest on the outside of bowls.

I have never felt the need to use curved tool rests, though I have a few curved tool rests. Part of the process has to do with work flow. Production turners have found a way to work a curved tool rest into their work flow.