What Stanley plane type(s) do you all recommend...and why?
[OP]
Member
What Stanley plane type(s) do you all recommend...and why?
Guest
For Stanley plane types I recommend Lie-Nielsen, assuming one wants to actually use them for woodworking.
Member
Pretty much anything pre type 20 is just fine. I usually avoid the really old ones, they are either collectably priced and/or have backwards adjuster nuts. My ideal range is about type 7-14. I like the pre-ogee style frog--bigger machined bedding surface, but really I don't care. My favorite Stanley is a mildly Franken Number 8, that's about a type 17.
Again, types don't really matter. They are only really useful as a shopping shortcut.
[OP]
Member
oops...sorry...what I meant by my question was "What Stanley plane type # would you recommend?" You know, like type 10 or 11 or "whatever".Originally Posted by Jack Curtis
I do wish I could afford LN stuff, though...
Contributor
There are many things that different people like about a particular type that may not be what others like.
My preference is for a low knob. Someone else may like a high knob. If it is later than type 13 (1925-1928) it will have a ring in the casting that doesn't work well with a short knob.
Some folks like type 11 to the exclusion of all others. They do have all of the bells and whistles found on a Stanley/Bailey bench plane. Some consider this the beginning of the golden age of the Bailey style bench plane. Some folks like the Sweet Hart era. I like the bigger adjuster wheel that came with the SW era. Most of my planes that will accept them have been changed over.
Two of my #4s are type 6 and are great workers. One of my #6s is a type 4 and is just as likely to be used as its newer type 9 cousin.
With the type 16 (1933-1941) came the ogee frog. I have seen many problems with these. There is less contact area with the blade. I think this is also where the engineering changed from improving the product to cost cutting.
Some people like the planes made during WWII. They are usually distinguished by plastic adjusters. They are said to be a heavier casting. I haven't really noticed in use. One of my #5 is a type 17 (1942-1945). It has problems with the lateral adjustment. It seems to move very little, then a whole lot. I may give it a bit more work on the frog seating to see if that helps.
So, others may not agree with me, but I like anything from the early SW back to about type 4. Type 5 is more for collectors since it has a different lateral adjuster than all the others. I also like cheap, so before type 10 usually sell for less.
If you do buy the older planes, it is a good idea to know a little about metal working at least to the extent of being able to remove the rust, repaint if you want and a few other fairly simple tasks to restore them. Just today one of my tasks was repairing the threads for the tote bolt on a type 13 #5. Not bad for something approaching its century mark only needing a little shot of JB Weld. I think this one came from a pawn shop and was missing a lot of parts. Set me back a whole $4 and knowing the parts were waiting at home it was a deal that just couldn't be left on the shelf.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Type 13/14
Member
I have most of a set of type 11's and love them. I have owned many type 18's thru 14's and they all worked great if they were properly tuned. My advice may surprise you - type is hype. Buy one that is ready to go regardless of type. By one from Walt at brass city or buy one from the classifieds here from Someone who tuned it up. Tuning can be a lot of work.
Buying 3 LN' s is a sure thing.get these 3to start #3, 5, 7.
Guest
Sorry, but what I meant was I couldn't recommend any Stanleys at this point. I still think you're better off buying a LN/LV LA jack, and this would save a lot of money and time for a beginner vs the Stanley route.
Member
So basically if you are new to woodworking and cannot afford the shiny stuff, you ought to find a different hobby.
Member
Actually, a jack is where a stanley plane really shines. A jack plane can be a little rough around the edges and work quite well. Now on a smoother where you want something with a bit more precision, a tight mouth, good adjustment capabilities, etc., a new plane will certianly shine quite brightly, but I still wouldn't discourage a newbie from picking up a stanley 3 or 4. Hell, you can get user quality 3's, 4's, and 5's from WaltQ for a third the price (or even better) than LV/LN and have something that is ready to go.
Contributor
The ones that work!
Guest
No, I said that it was more economical to buy one LN/LV LA jack.
Guest
I tried several Stanley planes when I first started getting into hand tools, and not a one was satisfactory, whether because of my lack of skills or the Stanley/Record planes themselves. I bought a LN LA jack that worked perfectly first time I picked it up. That's what I call economy.
Member
I agree with Jim on the larger depth adjuster wheel, and I like the frog adjuster as well. Type 11's have the frog adjuster but still have the smaller brass depth adjuster wheel. I think that the reason the type 12-15's are favoured by many is that they still have the solid frog plus all the other features that make Stanley planes great. They won't appeal to users who like a low front knob however.
Having said that, I have a bit of a mix of types, and all of them with fettling produce excellent work.
Member
I prefer franken planes
I like my low knobs with a larger adjusting wheel and a solid frog. Yeah, it's not correct, but dang if it doesn't make for a good user.
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