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Thread: old wood cracking

  1. #1

    old wood cracking

    I am doing a pen project using some old 2 in thick floor boards from an old mill. I think the wood is Pecan, from what I can tell. In any event, Ive made some wine stoppers without a problem, its beautiful wood, however when I make my pens, as it gets thin it splits or splinters at the tube ends.
    Someone suggested I soak the cut pieces in water for a time prior to turning. Never heard of that, has anyone else, or does anyone have suggestions that would allow me to turn pens...

    thanks Gary

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Pensacola, Fl.
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    487
    Here's a suggestion. Try soaking the wood for at least 24 hours in a 50/50 mix of concentrated dishwashing detergent and water. The process makes wood turn like it's green and it helps prevent cracking. Here's a link to a terrific woodturner's site. http://www.ronkent.com/techniques.php Ron Kent is one of the best.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Carterville, Illinois
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    Obviously the wood still has stresses in it from drying, and wetting it might relieve those stresses. How long did they say to soak the wood? And do you allow the wood to dry before turning?
    The hurrier I goes, the behinder I gets.

  4. #4
    thin CA glue applied liberally (read soak it in till it won't absorb anymore) end of splitting problems

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Blairsville GA
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    2,105
    I've had issues with some spalted blanks doing that at the ends. As Don implied, thin CA is a must to help stabilize at times.
    I would suggest before you even install the tube, to squirt some thin CA down to stabilize the interior, then once the tube is installed, squirt a bit of thin or medium down along the gap between the tube and blank at each end before end milling. If you have alot of material (more than 1/16") to mill off, cut excess with bandsaw or sand off to that point, and then apply the CA to the ends. I do this even with hard stable blanks to make sure there aren't any voids between the blank and the tube which tend to be present no matter how liberally you apply CA before installing into the blank.
    I bet the IAP penturners site has some even better suggestions, but that's what I do. Hope that helps.
    Laugh at least once daily, even if at yourself!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Goodland, Kansas
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    If it is spalted or soft wood I soak with thin CA. Also like Tim I sand the ends square because a end mill can chip the wood also and then soak the ends with CA.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Don't forget to put a drop of CA on the ends, both before and after you mill. Before helps adhere the fibers for milling to prevent tearing since pecan is so long grained, and after to adhere the fibers at the thinest part of the pen. Some of mine are 1/32" at the barrel end so stable wood really helps!
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears combat boots

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    4,529
    You may be getting it too hot when drilling and causing the cracks before you turn it. Sharp drill, pulled out often to clear the chips.

  9. #9
    thanks for the suggestions, I will let you know how it turns out... glad Im not the one to have had this issue...

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