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Thread: Motor Oils

  1. #1
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    Motor Oils

    For years I've been using Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic 5W20 oil in our Ford vehicles--at first it was the only way to get the 5W20 oil Ford recommended. Always buy it at Walmart (pretty much the only reason I ever go to Walmart) since they are the lowest price for the same jug as everyone else. The price has steadily climbed and I was rather shocked today to pay almost $50 for 2 5qt jugs and a Motorcraft oil filter to restock the shelf at home. I was looking and now others have 5W20 oils to meet the Ford spec and most if not all are less expensive. I was in a hurry so I didn't stop to read labels and see who's were synthetic, semi-synthetic, and conventional. Its been so long since I bought anything else, I don't know what's good anymore? Years ago my dad used nothing but Pennzoil based on a friend who was a Ford engine engineer recommending and using that. But after mergers and acquisitions in the industry, I'm guessing a lot of the brands on the shelf are really the same oil in a different bottle?


  2. #2
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    I'm guessing a lot of the brands on the shelf are really the same oil in a different bottle?
    By listening to one of the guys at a local (chain) auto parts/supply store, my opinion is that you are justified in your guess.

    He has told me that their store brand is just a rebrand of one of the majors. Also told me where the other chain in town was getting their rebranded oil.

    When my work was part time and temping one of my assignments was with a Chevron testing lab. They tested the effects of different fuels and oils on engines.

    Different engines have different effects on oil depending on operating temps. At the time, there was still a wide variation in engines. With more stringent pollution standards, that may have changed.

    I use Pennzoil, so I am not knocking it, but it tended to produce more paraffin build up in engines that ran hotter, like an air cooled VW.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
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  3. #3
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    Matt, I've been able to match Walmart's oil sale prices on Amazon (when buying by the gallon).

  4. #4
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    I use nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic in any of my vehicle except the one that takes an oil formulated for exactly one engine in the world, so for it I have to use imported Castrol 10W60 TWS Synthetic. The M1 isn't cheap but I use extended drain periods and never had an issue, we even had a Lexus with the 3.0 engine known for sludging, routine changes at 12K (3 times recommended) sold with over 400K on the clock and no sludge.

    M1 is NOT the best oil available, but it is as good as anything you can buy at Walmart or the average chain parts store and more than good enough.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #5
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    I usually buy Pennzoil, Get at Walmart, They were out the last time I bought oil so I bought some Valvoline. It's a lot different. The Valvoline was a lot lighter colored and thinner than the Pennzoil.

    PHM

  6. #6
    Also a Mobil 1 user for over 35 years with no issues and I've pulled engines apart for inspection and found they were very clean with no residue or damage. I buy 5w20 for my Tacoma at Walmart in the 5qt. jug for around $25-27. Oil is a pretty highly debated subject, try Bobistheoilguy.com if you want to really immerse yourself.
    Mac
    Last edited by Mac McQuinn; 06-25-2012 at 11:30 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac McQuinn View Post
    try Bobistheoilguy.com if you want to immerse yourself.
    Mac
    Or don't if you do want to get sucked into a vortex!
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  8. #8
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    GM recommends Dexos Certified oil.. I'm sure you can use anything else, but if you have a warranty problem and your using some store 'house brand', you can probably expect a problem with your warranty repairs..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

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  9. #9
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    Mobil 1 has always been my favorite synthetic...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    I have a few friends who are into restoring antique cars. Most they bring home in 5 gal buckets. They spend years restoring them.
    I asked once what brand oil they used. They said the cheapest. often the store brand from the parts store. They are not much on all the advertising hype.

    I read once, in a study of conventional motor oils, there was no difference in any major brand till 8,000 miles.

    Why use synthetic oil other than longer run time between oil changes? I like to keep my oil changed at 3,000 miles just so it is cleaner and not that expensive to do. ($16.95 at the dealer)
    Last edited by Dave Lehnert; 06-26-2012 at 2:35 PM.
    "Remember back in the day, when things were made by hand, and people took pride in their work?"
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  11. #11
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    I have seen our off road race truck come in with the temp gauge pegged at 350 degrees, so it was hotter than that. Won the race but as soon as it stopped it siezed.

    When it cooled down it started and ran the next day. This was with Amsoil. If it had been Dino oil that motor would have been history. I am a firm believer in synthetics for anything that may see extreme conditions, like race trucks, cement mixers, pressure washers, lawn mowers......

    My daily drivers I use Rotella T, but my new Ford calls for the same oil as Matts and Rotella does not have that weight. I have been breaking it in with Castrol GTX, but may switch to Amsoil and extend the oil changes from 7,500-10,000 miles.

    I use Donaldson Filters for everthing they are available for and Wix or Amsoil for the rest. This is probably more important than the oil choice. I would not put a Fram on anything I own by the way. All filters are not created equal.

  12. #12
    I don't know what's what, I do know that having clean oil is the most important thing in the short term. I don't know how much damage the wrong grade can do, but I do know what dirt does. (I don't use the wrong grade, though, and not suggesting anyone would do it on purpose).

    I have about 4 auto store chains near me, and live in the hills (i.e., the miles on the cars are tough and the combined mileage we get is always at the city range despite gentle driving due to stop lights at the bottom of hills and short steel hills to climb off of turns, etc). I always buy synthetic (one of the cars requires it due to a turbocharger), and I always change it around 5k miles or a year, whatever comes first. 5k here is probably like 8k flatland (when we stay with relatives, I can always get mileage above the highway rating on the car)
    When a change is coming up, I check all of the flyers for the local stores and buy whatever full synthetic is on sale. I expect, like most folks I know, that the electrical stuff in the car, or the transmission or rust or some other such thing will be the demise of the car long before the engine refuses to go between changes without burning all of its oil.

  13. #13
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    I worked at the lubrazul head quarters and they had a display with different brands of oil and there is a major difference. They do not refine oil they are an oil additive company so there is no brand preferance. Quaker state was the worst.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Lehnert View Post
    I have a few friends who are into restoring antique cars. Most they bring home in 5 gal buckets. They spend years restoring them.
    I asked once what brand oil they used. They said the cheapest. often the store brand from the parts store. They are not much on all the advertising hype.

    I read once, in a study of conventional motor oils, there was no difference in any major brand till 8,000 miles.

    Why use synthetic oil other than longer run time between oil changes? I like to keep my oil changed at 3,000 miles just so it is cleaner and not that expensive to do. ($16.95 at the dealer)
    If you use short drain periods there isn't much difference, though that isn't very "green" or economical. If you do used oil analysis you will see some oils (usually more expensive) are still effective after long periods when the cheap oils no longer are affording good protection. All of this requires a quality filter, Fram is a name you should skip at all costs, even the generic Walmart filters are better. The other times you should use synthetic is when it is required for an engine (have those) or when when conditions dictate.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #15
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    Olathe Kansas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek View Post
    I worked at the lubrazul head quarters and they had a display with different brands of oil and there is a major difference. They do not refine oil they are an oil additive company so there is no brand preferance. Quaker state was the worst.
    If Quaker State was the worst who was some of the better ones. I have mine changeg at my son's GM dealership and it is a Dodge '06 Dakota, with 161,000miles on it.
    Randy

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