Those seem to be substantially more expensive than traditional sand paper.
When you say they are much better on a drum sander in what way you mean? Less clogging? faster removal of material? longer lasting?
I can see the benefit on a ROS but what's the advantage on a drum sander?
All of the above, actually. That's my experience so far. They seem to last significantly longer...far longer than the extra cost...and seem to work better for the entire life. I believe it's probably because the mesh prevents clogging and heating, but I don't really know why.
I'm intrigued. Most of my drum sandpaper simply becomes useless because it gets buildup on it that I cannot remove. Yes, I use the large erasure, and I have no interest in putting oven cleaner on the paper. You would think the paper would wear out first. But if I am messing with wood that has oil or resin, that seems to be the first route to failure. So, do you see buildup due to oil and resin type woods? Do bumps build up on the Abranet?
I am so wanting one of those Ceros 5" sanders! Gonna mention it to Santa.
Mike
One other thing. I'm still in the camp of not putting H&L on the drum. The paper cost goes up, and a necessary heat transfer mechanism is lost. Also, when sanding inlays, or laminates from the side, where wood hardness differs, I've been told that the contouring effect due to the softness of the H&L can lead to uneven surfaces. I have seen that effect with the ROS and palm sander when working over a rosette before, so I tend to believe it could happen on the drum. It would appear that the heat transfer thing might be mitigated by the porousness of the Abranet. And maybe, I'm just wrong about all of this. I've never used H&L on a drum. I have gotten quite goot at dealing with that crazy clip on the drum.
Just putting thoughts out there. Regardless, I look forward to hearing results of H&L on a drum using Abranet.
Mike
Hi, Mike. No, I haven't noticed that resins build up on the paper. I think that's one reason why it's lasting longer for me. I know that after sanding a couple of fingerboard and veneers, my normal 80 grit is black and glazed. This stuff seems to work better.
re: velcro
Everyone talks about uneven sanding, but then again there are a lot of hook and loop sanders out there that no one is complaining about. For example, no one complains about the Woodmaster or the large Grizzlys, and they are all hook and loop. It seems like a lot of people heard that it's a bad idea (like me) but when you probe for specifics no one specifically knows of problems. There's an awful lot of force on that drum. I have to think that the paper seats itself after the first second or two and gets pretty well sucked down to the drum. I can see there being some give for heavier cuts, but there's give in the whole system anyway depending on the depth of cut. It's a matter of degree. The only place I really need it precise is on acoustic tops and braces, and that's all very homogenous spruce, so no problem there. For everything else, I'm just looking to clean it up...if I'm off a few thou here and there, I don't care.
The kit isn't too expensive so I don't mind experimenting a bit to find out.
Last edited by John Coloccia; 06-29-2012 at 6:50 PM.
H&L on my G1077Z and its awesome. Guessing guys negative against it have never used it. Much easier to apply rolls (still tape ends), sanding is perfect flat - I like it tons better than the roller/roll setup I used on my 22/44ST (3 legged 22/44 pro). I want to try abranet on it.
Also the last thing I would call abranet is fragile. This stuff, even wore out has to be forceably torn. Guys ripping them on sanders are doing something very wrong with their ROS IMO.
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
Just wanted to post an update. I haven't changed the Abranet strip on the sander yet, so I still don't know how long it lasts! I will say this, though...one major advantage is I get no more burning. Even when I'm too aggressive, I can slow it down but I haven't burned anything yet, nor clogged up/glazed the abrasive. I've been using it a lot lately, taking off quite a bit of material from padauk and maple, as well as pine. I bought a bunch of pine for one piece body blanks, but I only have a 12" planer so I have no way to work them other than the sander. No problem....this stuff just keeps on chugging.
So IMHO, the added cost is easily offset by it's longevity. I've had a least several times in the last couple of days alone where I know from experience that I would have instantly trashed traditional sandpaper but this stuff doesn't care.
Last edited by John Coloccia; 07-13-2012 at 3:21 AM.