Air Compressor connection

[Bob Vavricka]

I'm installing a new air compressor and would like to have a flexible connection from the compressor to the wall mounted regulator. What would/do you use? The compressor has a ball valve at the tank with 1/2 inch pipe thead.

[Michael W. Clark]

I used a piece of 3/8' air hose with 3/8" hose bib fittings and hose clamps. The hose bibs are made for one end to insert into the hose and the other end is NPT threads. I had 3/8" male NPT threads on the hose bibs and installed a 1/2x3/8 bushing in the 1/2" NPT ball valve. The hose bibs allow you to install them first into the ball valve and regulator, then slp the hose over with the hose clamps. This way you don't have to twist the hose to tighten it up. You may also be able to find some fittings that swivel, or you could use quick connects if you think you will be disconnecting it often. If you have to keep things 1/2", the fittings will be more expensive. My run was only a couple of feet and my regulater is 3/8" ported so it worked out well.

Mike

[Chris Parks]

Use the biggest flexible hose you can get, generally 1/2". Undersized hoses a real problem if you intend to use air tools or do a lot of spaying especially if using HVLP.

[Jim Neeley]

Bob,

My recommendation would depend upon the pressure of your compressor, whether or not the regulator is mounted directly to the compressor and the size of the tank. The factory accessory kit for my IR 5hp, 60 gal, 175 psig came with a 1/2" hose with a steel braid on the exterior. If your large (1/2") line has 175 psi and the hose is connected directly to the tank, a break in the hose may be severe (total rip rather than small tear). In that event the escaping air will go to the speed of sound. It will get very loud and the end may whip. As for me I'd only use a wire braid hose.

If on the other hand it was like my old compressor (10 gallon, 100 psi max, 1/4" discharge line and the regulator built into the compressor, the risk would be much lower.

Just my $0.02...

Jim

[Chris Damm]

I use a short 3/8 hose with quick disconnects on both ends. It works great and I have no shortage of air even to air hogs like my DA sander.

[Chris Parks]

I use a short 3/8 hose with quick disconnects on both ends. It works great and I have no shortage of air even to air hogs like my DA sander.

Put a 1/2" hose in and watch the difference, it is an absolute certainty that 3/8" is restricting the flow.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Bob. You didn't say exactly what the size of you compressor is.

When I installed my IR 5hp, 60 gal, compressor I did what you are planning. I mounted an IR coalescing filter and then a regulator on the wall. I set the compressor pressure switch to 130 lbs, and the wall mounted regulator to 110 lbs.

I connected the compressor output to the regulators via a 2 ft 1/2" stainless-steel jacketed, teflon lined, flexible hose. I ordered the hose from McMaster and Carr over in Atlanta. (If M and C doesn't have it, you probably didn't need it anyway.) The actual connect required 2 street ells and couple double female pipe joints. All plumbing parts must be brass, other wise you will have rust all over the place.

The output of the regulator feeds a pipe union, the output of which feeds my 1/2" copper tubing distribution system. All copper joints are soldered joints.

I also recommend getting an automatic water drain valve for the bottom of the compressor air tank.

[Bob Vavricka]

Thanks for the replies. The compressor is an IR 3HP 60 gal. After the filter and regulator it will hook into a manifold to feed the Rapid-Air lines I installed in the wall when I was building. I'm hoping to get it all hooked up soon to see how it works.

[Jim Neeley]

+1 on the water drain valve mod. I don't use mine often enough for an auto drain but the removal of the down-facing petcock and replacing it with a brass street elbow, a short section of brass pipe, a ball valve and an ell to deflect the exhause again downwards (total cost <$20) got the walve out and accessible. Draining water is really important. Whether through an auto valve or a remove valve like mine, make it accessible and it's much friendlier to use regularly. Since it's going tobe in contact with water, better brass than iron or steel.

Jim

[William Cummins]

Go and get your self a short section of Hydraulic hose ( tractor supply etc...) It comes in 1/2", 3/4" 1" etc... with NPT ends on it and is cheap! The stuff is rated for many times the pressure your compressor is rated for ( most is 2000-3000 psi rated) and will last forever at 175psi indoors.

William....

[wayne forsyth]

You can take the length fitting type and sizes to a business that makes hoses for heavy equipment. tey will make you one while you wait.

[Jim Neeley]

+1 on wayne's comment. It costs a few bucks but they have the high pressure machines and dies to permanently mount the fitting 100% correctly. They're used to working with 3,000 psi hydraulic lines so air is a piece of cake. This is what I did in making an aftercooler (~$200 rather than the ~$750 for commercial) to cool the air between my compressor's 2nd stage discharge and the tank.

The net effect of the aftercooler was to permit the air to cool enough to get all of the water to drop out of the air in the tank, rather than in my filters, desiccant or air piping.

[Ted Friesen]

I had a local shop fabricate an 18" piece of 1/2" hose with fittings at both ends for less than $15 bucks. At the tank it's connected to the ball valve and clamped securely to the wall. All the vibration taken up by the hose. Also did the mod to the drain. Glad I did. But squatting down in front and opening the valve gets my crotch wet. Any ideas?

[John Cooper2]

For the drain valve you can use the valve that the big rigs use on their air tanks. It's a little rocker valve with a short section of cable attached. You pull the cable a little and it opens the valve, let go and it closes. Cable could be as long or as short as you want. When I do mine The cable will run about 20' to inside the shop so I can see it and pull it everyday I am in the shop.

valve.jpg

and a link to one supplier http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
no connection just one I found on the net.

[John Cooper2]

Forgot,

Big Rig parts shops are a great source for air lines and cheap too.