I need advice, How to sharpen Chainsaw Blades?

[Tim Boger]

I've done a bit of research regarding the various techniques and different tools available to sharpen the blades from my new chainsaw. In recent days I've used my dremel tool with the appropriate bit and have experienced mixed results ..... the new Husqvarna blades don't seem to sharpen as well as did the Oregon blades I have used in my old Poulan saw.

Oregon brand make an electric sharpener that has pretty good reviews, the one I saw was in the $185 range .... bit pricey for me, but within reach if it's the recommended choice.

What do you folks suggest?

Thanks,
Tim

[Roger Chandler]

I have one of these and it does a superior job......apprx. $350

also have one of these ..........it does a fine job as well.......$29 on sale at Harbor Freight with a coupon

either is much better and faster and more accurate than filing by hand.........I'm just sayin' ...

[Tim Boger]

I have one of these and it does a superior job......apprx. $350

also have one of these ..........it does a fine job as well.......$29 on sale at Harbor Freight with a coupon

either is much better and faster and more accurate than filing by hand.........I'm just sayin' ...

Hey Roger,

I have read good and bad about the HF sharpener, actually put my hands on one in their store and was not impressed ..... it's not to bad you say.

The Oregon machine is very nice but half again what I paid for the new Husky

Thanks for the info,
Tim

[James Combs]

I use a simple chainsaw file with guide similar to this just before each use or if it starts cutting slow while in use. About 5 passes on each tooth and I am good to go for another session. There are angled guide lines on the file holder(guide) so that you get reasonably close to the proper angle. I paint one tooth with a magic marker and start sharpening one side with it and end when I get back to it, reverse the orientation of the saw and do the same thing for the other side. Takes no more then 5-10 minutes to do the whole chain.

[Darryl Hansen]

Oregon (I think) has one that is about $30 and runs on 12 volts. Made for use in the field but I just use a charger to power it. You do have to hold the angle that is marked but it does more than a passable job.

[Reed Gray]

It really isn't difficult to sharpen with the proper file, which is way cheaper than the fancy machine sharpeners. Mostly keep the angle constant. Most blades/teeth will have an angle guide line on them. Also, take the same number of strokes per tooth, 4 usually does it for me. You don't have to take the blade off the saw.

robo hippy

[Roger Chandler]

I like the built in accuracy of the sharpening machine........always the same on both sides of the chain.........Tim, I used the harbor freight one for two years......very good results. I had to replace the switch on it once, but I just recently gave it to my neighbor who works for the local power company, and has to cut away trees during the storms.......he had several down in that big storm recently.

I also have another HF one new in the box...........I just wanted a professional model like the saw dealers use........can't beat it, and if I want I can sharpen for others and make some $$$$ if I am ever so inclined to do so!

[Bob Bergstrom]

Check YouTube videos. There are a number of them. All you really need is the correct chainsaw file and some practice. Even if you come close it will cut a lot better than a dull one.

[Harry Robinette]

I've been useing the Dremel sharpener for about 3 years now and I do mine and a friends blades with never a complant. The big thing with this system is you MUST go slow and keep everything in alinement if you do this it works good.

[Ed Hazel]

Get a good file that fits your chain, hold the same angle same number of strokes on each tooth. After several filings take to a good sharpener and they will use an electric sharpener and get all the angles correct again. Depending on your usage you may want to have an extra chain or two. Most sharpeners will file the chain after using the grinder.

[Sam Murdoch]

I use this- it is cheap, portable (which means that you bring it wherever you go with your saw), easy to use and provides an excellent result - It is a hand file system with guides http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201...201b0106P.html and here is another link http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17050 Try it - you will like it!

[David Dobbs]

I am with the hand file guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You dont need no grinder. Do as Robo Hippy said an you will be just fine. You will take better care of the chain also. One heck of a lot cheaper also. Use a marker to mark the tooth you start on.

Maybe I am old school

[Bernie Weishapl]

I am with Reed on this one. I bought a Granberg Model #106B. Cost around $27. Nice thing is when I am out cutting in the woods it mounts on the bar and the angle has already been set. 4 strokes per tooth and I am back sawing. Haven't had to change out a chain except if I hit barbwire or nails.

[Ryan Baker]

Definitely a hand file. You can sharpen the whole chain and be back to cutting faster than you can take off the chain, set up the machine, sharpen the chain, and put it back. You can do a better job by hand too, and not burn the teeth. It's easy to keep things even. You just have to do the same number of strokes on every tooth. Keep the angles and pressures consistent. Simple. The only time you may need a grinder is if you rock a chain and need to remove a lot of material.

[Scott Hackler]

I am on both fronts. If I am going out into the timber, I have a file AND an extra freshly sharpened chain.

If I am processing logs at home, to heck with that file. I have the HF el cheapo power sharpener and it is, hands down, one of the best purchases I have ever made. I have 3 chains for my Husky and I sharpen them all at once. Takes about 10 minutes per chain, once its set up on the bench. And afterwards, they are as sharp as brand new. Plus I don't have to take them in and have them redone at the dealer.