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Thread: Plywood or MDF?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    464
    I built Norm's router table using doubled glued and screwed 3/4" particleboard with a formica top and an oak edge about 8 years ago and its still good as new with no signs of sagging. Last week I built a "Mr. Sawdust" table for a radial arm saw using doubled MDF with two pieces of 1/8" x 1/2" steel reinforcement. It came out perfectly flat. Last night I built another "Mr. Sawdust" table for another radial arm saw using doubled 3/4" oak plywood. As soon as I cut the dados for the steel reinforcement the plywood was no longer flat and I couldn't get it flat using glue, cawls and clamps. I'm going to try doubled countertop grade particleboard with steel reinforcement next.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    325
    Ken, enjoy the build, the MDF will be perfectly flat as opposed to some plywoods. Truthfully, if I used anything other than the MDF to build mine, it would have been the MDO sign plywood. We use it a lot at work, and with good results. One last word of advice for MDF, make sure all exposed faces and edges are sealed to prevent moisture from entering. I had the bottom face of mine sprayed with lacquer to seal it. Have fun, Greg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    757
    Ken,
    Are you coming to Houston in the near future? If you are, I'll give you one virtually identical to the one Keith picture above. Oversized (24x36 if memory serves) double layer MDF glued & screwed, edge banded 3/4" oak, laminated top and bottom (white). Cut for a Woodpeckers plate/standard size plate. It's taking up space in my shop. It's your's if you want to travel
    Cheers

    Edit: PS. I just noticed you have a Woodpecker PRL... I bet it will drop right in
    Last edited by Brad Schmid; 08-13-2012 at 4:26 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,561
    Brad,

    I appreciate the generous offer!

    Last week I purchased all the materials including the special ordered HPL so I will build my own.

    Thanks again!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  5. #20
    I chose MDF for my router table because it's flat, stable and MDF is heavier than most plywoods. More mass typically means less vibrations.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    2,260
    I use MDF on the router top, and also my tablesaw outfeed (takes a LOT of abuse) and also a number of fixtures (hey, I got a bunch of it for free).

    Coated it with shellac. Am very pleased with how it holds up. Just dont like the dust.....

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,923
    For a top like that, I'd always opt for the MDF...flat, dense, smooth and a great substrate for the laminate.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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