Shark Guard -method of attachment

[Jim Tobias]

I thought I read on the forum one time that someone had used a "snap on" type lock to put their Shark Guard on their saw. I have a PM 66 and have used the Shark Guard for a couple of years(4' port) and love the dust collection. BUT, it is a real pain to take it off when I need to make a bevel cut.
Below is a picture if what I am using now. Anyone use something different that is easier to put on and take off?

Thanks,
Jim
129132_400.jpg

[Greg Portland]

I use Nordfab ductwork (rings snap the pieces together). It's easier to attach the TS guard but not cheap. Have you considered a way to swivel the guard & arm out of the way?

[michael osadchuk]

Jim,

The picture of the handle you posted seems to be exactly what I use to attach a Sharkguard to my General 350 cabinet saw.

Here's what I bought from Busy Bee in Canada
http://www.busybeetools.com/products...N.-X16TPI.html

If it's same perhaps you haven't discovered the 'adjustable' aspect of it..... the handle is spring loaded, with the handle part normally being in the 'popped out' position.... to loosen the grip of the device on Sharkguard, I just push the handle part in and turn the handle part a quarter turn, which is sufficient of break the grip of the device on Sharkguard.... after I've removed the zero clearance plate, it takes me all of 10 seconds to turn the handle a quarter turn (the whole device is not removed from the saw) and hang the Sharkguard on an overhead hook; same amount of time to re-install the Sharkguard and re-tighten the adjustable handle one quarter turn.

Apart from the fussiness of the initial positioning/orientation of the adjustable handle so that the none of the saw cabinet is obstructing the handle in its quarter turn loosening/tightening arc, I've found this to be a quick and reliable device.

good luck

michael

[Jim Tobias]

Michael,
I am aware of the spring loaded handle. As stated in my original post, the issue is when I crank the blade all the way up and tilt for a bevel cut. The handle is in the way of the throat plate and won't allow me to crank the blade all the way up. I agree that the process of just taking the splitter out is fast and simple as long as you don't need to remove the handle entirey.
I thought I had remembered someone saying that they had found a quick release lock for this very purpose.

Jim

[Hovey Moore]

My shark guard is attached through a Biesmeyer splitter. Makes it super easy to attach and take off, drops in and one button to pull and its loose. Its kind of an expensive way to mount one though.

[Jim Andrew]

On my Uni, just one bolt holds the shark guard. I just keep a 1/2" wrench handy, doesn't need to be extremely tight. And the hose drops down from above, and I just hang the guard on the piipe when using the saw without it. Not a big deal. Just wish I could leave it on to cut narrow strips.

[Ole Anderson]

It only takes a quarter turn, so you could use a hex head bolt, a washer and a combination wrench. The wrench becomes the removable handle. The bolt can stay in place and still give you clearance to tilt and raise the blade. And if you get a washer head bolt, it becomes even easier. But I change the blade WAY more often than I rip a bevel, so I just put up with it. My beef is that the splitter should be longer so it has more resting on the TS top, making it easier to install parallel with the TS top. But other than that, I use the guard way more than the old one because it is so easy to remove and reinstall. Highly recommended. Oh, I have a 1023 Griz if it makes any difference.

I hang my guard up with the hose attached too, I use one of those copper (coated) water pipe hangers to hook the guard onto.

[J. Greg Jones]

Jim, do you use a metal insert or a wood/Leecraft style material that you can work with? On mine, I found the spot where the handle hits the bottom of the insert and then cut a relief in the bottom with a Forstner bit. The relief doesn't need to be very deep-1/4" or so IIRC.

[Jim Tobias]

Greg,
I made it from a piece of phenolic material.
I like the idea of drilling out a cavity for the handle head. That should work.
I also like Ole's thought about just using a washerhead bolt. If it is short enough, keeping a wrench handy may be a good solution.
I was thinking that there was a new lock device that would make it easy to remove the entire bolt. Guess not.

Jim