Attaching Acryic signs to brick

[Tom Sieczkarek]

Need some ideas for attaching 1/4" x 24" x 30"acrylic signs to brick. They are looking for concealed fasteners (standoffs are out) and the only thing I can think of is french cleat type. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

[Rich Fennessey]

You can cut keyholes or just attach keyhole hangers on the back. I cut pockets in the back of corian and then epoxy in metal keyhole hangers so they are flush with the back side. I happen to use the Rockler keyhole hangers but home depot or Lowes has them too. Make sure you don't get epoxy where the screw goes or you will lose the space for the screw head (been there done that). You will need a hammer drill obviously to drill a hole to put a plastic anchor into the brick along with the correct size screw. This particular keyhole hanger uses a 7 sized screw which may be a bit undersized for your sign. Works great for my smaller signs using 1/4" thick corian. You should be able to get a bigger hanger.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...1&site=ROCKLER

This one takes a tad bigger screw head.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_334850-37672...RL=&facetInfo=

One issue with this mounting method is that it makes the sign fairly easy to remove unless you put adhesive on the screw head which then of course makes it near impossible to remove. It depends if you might suspect that someone may take it or possibly even hit it with their shoulder which could knock it off the keyhole mount.

[Joe Pelonio]

What kind of lettering? If laser cut or some other kind of dimensional, I will leave off the first and last letters on the top line.
Then drill two holes that will be hidden by the letters, making sure they are level with each other. Then I level and mark the holes for drilling into the mortar (not the brick), insert anchors, then and use ds tape and silicone to attach to the brick, with the two holes lined up. Put in screws and attach the letters.

[Keith Outten]

You can mount a PVC backing plate to the wall and then use silicone adhesive to mount the sign to the plate running the silicone adhesive beads horizontally . Paint the edges of the PVC to match the color of your sign. PVC is easy to work with and it will expand and contact with the acrylic. Since the acrylic won't last for too many years the backing doesn't have to be an expensive material.

You can screw small/thin acrylic mounting pieces to the wall then glue the sign to the mounts but you will have a gap. (This doesn't allow for expansion)

You can glue the sign directly to the brick, you have to erect a temporary jig to hold the sign in place while the adhesive dries. (This doesn't allow for expansion)

Using a french cleat is basically a standoff, the gap between the back of the sign and the wall will be the thickness of the cleat.

I prefer to use thicker material so I can rout keyholes and hang signs directly to the wall. The cost of hanging signs overshadows the cost of using a thicker material IMO. Very large heavy Corian signs can be drilled from the front and the holes filled with a color matched Corian adhesive.

The technique that Joe recommended is a good one if the letters are on top of the substrate such that you can install them after you fasten the sign to the wall. Large letters would allow you to use larger holes or slots with small fender washers so the material can expand and contract.

Plan on your acrylic expanding and contracting big time as the temperature rises and falls.
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[Tom Sieczkarek]

These are all great options and thanks.As per a phone call this morning the acrylic is out.We are now going with 1/8" or 1/16" Rowmark Metalgraph -copper finished laser engraved on a black backer. BF plastics has 1/8" abs backer sheets but I need to find something thicker for the key hole slot idea.Maybe 1/4 or 3/8" material.Who are you getting the pvc from?

[Keith Outten]

Norva Plastics in Norfolk Virginia is my local source for acrylic and PVC sheets.

You should find a long list of PVC suppliers in your phone book, it is a common material used frequently for homes and light commercial buildings.
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[Tom Sieczkarek]

Thanks Keith!

[Tom Sieczkarek]

Talked to one local supplier, is $3.75 sq. ft about right for 13mm blck?

[Joe Pelonio]

With a resale license all sign supplies will stock it, and that's a decent price. I would use 6mm at the most, thicker like 13mm is rigid on the faces but very much like foam on the cut edges, hard to get paint to stick and not very black.

[Tom Sieczkarek]

Will I still be able to use the keyhole slot on the thinner material?? Sorry for all the questions,first time working with this material and the slot cutter.

[Joe Pelonio]

Will I still be able to use the keyhole slot on the thinner material?? Sorry for all the questions,first time working with this material and the slot cutter.

You could with 6mm, but you'd want to leave at least 2mm behind the Rowmark, and I would suggest cutting it prior to
laminating just in case. It would be tight, 2mm left, 2mm deep "hole" and 2mm left on the back.

[Tom Sieczkarek]

Thanks Joe,....Router bits just came in today. Time to do some testing.

[Tom Sieczkarek]

After all the questions, I had to send a picture of the finished product on the brick wall. Thanks for all the answers to my questions. Both my customer and their client where extremely pleased.
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