What's the less expensive bandsaw that can do this?

[glenn bradley]

That's a setup issue. There shouldn't be an actual "need" for a gizmo like that. Just something else to induce inaccuracy into the cutting process.
Just my personal opinion, of course.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Wow...that's borderline Rube Goldbergesque. The only thing missing is the monkey pedaling the bicycle when it sees the banana.

Now, now; you guys wouldn't talk about a Laguna Driftmaster Fence like that even though it is similar in purpose .

[Mike Cutler]

Jerry

Any well made bandsaw can perform cuts like that when set up properly, with the proper blade. It also takes a bit of experience.
The problem with adopting a system like that is that it will have to be tuned for every different type, or species, of wood that passes through the blade. It exposes the issue of either improper setup, poor technique, or a cheaply made bandsaw that will never track properly. All bandsaw tables have a little play at the trunnion bolts to adjust the table square to the blade, but it should be a one time only adjustment. More precisely what is being adjusted is the fence rail system to be perpindicular across it's plane to the blade. I haven't touched mine since I initially bolted it inplace.
Any of the 14" Delta's, or Delta clones should be able to perfom exactly as the video without the table being rotated.
The laser was sort of cool, but if the line it casts is really that wide it would be pretty worthless.
As for the tenon; Any bandsaw can do that cut.

[Steven Hsieh]

What are you going to use it for? Resaw?

[Rod Sheridan]

Now, now; you guys wouldn't talk about a Laguna Driftmaster Fence like that even though it is similar in purpose .

Yes I would Glenn.........................Regards, Rod.

[Chris Rosenberger]

What's the right blade? different for different saws?


I'm on the look out for a decent bandsaw...at a decent price. Kind of have an idea, and think I'll know the deal when I see it. I did get the Craftsman cutting decent, and that was a number of years ago, but not like in the video. Back then the internet and forums like this wasn't available to help sort out tuning issues like I had, you had to buy books and read. I do remember I tied everything I could think of including new tires, and cutting straight...WITH THE FENCE...just would not work.

I use Timber Wolf blades. Rockler, Woodcraft & Grizzly are a few dealers that sell them.

[Curt Harms]

What's the right blade? different for different saws?


I'm on the look out for a decent bandsaw...at a decent price. Kind of have an idea, and think I'll know the deal when I see it. I did get the Craftsman cutting decent, and that was a number of years ago, but not like in the video. Back then the internet and forums like this wasn't available to help sort out tuning issues like I had, you had to buy books and read. I do remember I tied everything I could think of including new tires, and cutting straight...WITH THE FENCE...just would not work.

Were you using Craftsman blades? If so, that's one of two possible causes, the other being setup. The difference between store brand blades and one from an online source - there are several that will make any length you want - or a local shop using band stock from Starrett or Lenox can be .... significant.

[John Coloccia]

Where do you live, Jerry? Do you still have a bandsaw now? Maybe you can hook up with a local creeker to get you up and running.

[Greg Portland]

What's the right blade? different for different saws?

Blade selection is dependent on the thickness of wood being resawn as well as the saw. Here's a good article with lots of information r.e. resaw blade selection: http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/...aw-blades.aspx

[Rick Potter]

Probably piling on, Jerry, but I will try to answer too.

Any good Delta 14" clone can do these things. The moveable table is unneeded, you can remove the blade drift with most any decent fence. The laser is a gimmick. Their saw had a 6" riser that is available for most saws, and it had what were probably knockoff Carter roller guides. I have a 14" Delta with the riser and the roller guides, and it can cut the same cuts just fine. I use a decent 1/2" blade with 3 TPI for resawing thick stuff.

As far as buying one, check Craigs List for bandsaws. You can usually find decent name brand 14" (the most common) saws for $250-$500. Try to spend a bit more and get one with the riser and the roller guides, it will save money in the long run. If you get a name brand, you will be able to find parts later, if needed. You can check websites for new prices.

Rick Potter

[Jim Rimmer]

Where's Van Huskey when you really need him? Here's a link to some good info on blades: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...bandsaw-blades!

I have a Grizzly G0555X that I have tuned well and I can make cuts like that up to 6" (I don't have the riser on mine). I use the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking. You might also want to get a copy of Duginski's book: http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-G...words=duginski

[Jerry Cummins]

What are you going to use it for? Resaw?

Yes I'd like to get to doing some of that...some day. But other work suited best to best saws also.

[Jerry Cummins]

Where do you live, Jerry? Do you still have a bandsaw now? Maybe you can hook up with a local creeker to get you up and running.

Creal Springs, IL.....Seems the more I do...the less I know. If anyone is near me...yes, let me know.

No...don't have a bandsaw now, but on the lookout for one.

[Jerry Cummins]

Probably piling on, Jerry, but I will try to answer too.

Any good Delta 14" clone can do these things. The moveable table is unneeded, you can remove the blade drift with most any decent fence. The laser is a gimmick. Their saw had a 6" riser that is available for most saws, and it had what were probably knockoff Carter roller guides. I have a 14" Delta with the riser and the roller guides, and it can cut the same cuts just fine. I use a decent 1/2" blade with 3 TPI for resawing thick stuff.

As far as buying one, check Craigs List for bandsaws. You can usually find decent name brand 14" (the most common) saws for $250-$500. Try to spend a bit more and get one with the riser and the roller guides, it will save money in the long run. If you get a name brand, you will be able to find parts later, if needed. You can check websites for new prices.

Rick Potter

I'm a Craigslist junkie. I use to live in Texas, and had a small piece of ground, thinking I would run cattle in retirement. Plans changed...for one got to old to keep up with it....sold everything connected with the ranch, from cattle to tractors, all done via craigslist. I've bought a number of things over the years from craigslist too. Most recent purchased via craiglist is a table saw, and dust collector. It was some years back, but I gave up on the Craftsman I had......but I've I had this forum back then, perhaps I could have gotten it right.

The benchmark bandsaw seems to be Delta, Grizzly, Jet....probably others. As you said, it seems $250 to $500 is what I'm going to have to spend for something decent. I had been watching craigslist more for a table saw. Now that I've got that, I've switched my attention to a bandsaw, but from what I've seen....decent ones do not last long on craigslist at all. And I have not seen many come up for sale anywhere close to me. I have seen more WTB 14" bandsaws, than actual ones for sale.

[Myk Rian]

I'm on the look out for a decent bandsaw...at a decent price.

Well, there's a 1948 Delta 14" on OWWM BOYD for $175. It's even in Illinois.
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=119772
Maybe $100 or so to get it pretty, and there ya go.

[John Coloccia]

Creal Springs, IL.....Seems the more I do...the less I know. If anyone is near me...yes, let me know.

No...don't have a bandsaw now, but on the lookout for one.

It does feel like that at first, but all that's happening is you're wading through the mythology and getting to the essential elements. FWIW, I can change blades on a bandsaw in about 5 minutes....and my "drift" and whatever else is always perfect. It's a matter of understanding the essential elements of bandsaw setup, which is why I originally said the laser/twisting table thing was a Rube Goldberg machine. You don't realign your trunnions when you change table saw blades. There's no reason to realign anything on the bandsaw either once you understand the relationship of the blade to the tires, AND you have a quality blade. Hopefully, someone will be able to help you out.