Long 8 sided and or 4 sided angled staves.

[John Terefenko]

Not really staves but I am looking for a safe and true way of cutting pieces about 8 to 10" long on a tablesaw. I want to be able to use either 4 or 6 or 8 pieces to make a cylinder. So what I am looking to do is cut lengths of wood with both sides with the appropriate angles. Not sure what they call these but they would look like a stave but not a compound angle. Anyone have suggestions for a safe easy accurrate method??? Thanks

[Bill Huber]

Something like this?

Set the table saw blade at the angle you need for 4,6 or 8 and then set the fence and cut them, then turn the board, set the fence and cut the other angle. You can cut long ones and then cut them to length.

P8063067.jpg

[Don Sundberg]

Figure out a good device to set up your bevel angle on your table saw. This could be a angle box type of device or drafting triangles or other protractor type of device. I use an I-gaging angle box. Make sure you have one good sharp edged 90 degree edge on your oversized for width stock. Set your fence for the long side of your segments. Run your worst edge through the blade first (good edge against the fence) and flip the part and run the other edge through. The reason you want a good sharp 90 degree edge is that it ends up being the corner when beveled so dings will show up in your final product.

This is what I did to make a bunch of mitered boxes to cover the gap between my new poly porch posts and top of the porch beam. The originals were installed with a half lap / bridle type joint. This seamed to work well as all of the parts were the same and fit up well.

Don

[Don Sundberg]

Something like this?

Set the table saw blade at the angle you need for 4,6 or 8 and then set the fence and cut them, then turn the board, set the fence and cut the other angle. You can cut long ones and then cut them to length.

P8063067.jpg

That's cool Bill. What was your method of putting in the accents in the corners?

Don

[Bill Huber]

That's cool Bill. What was your method of putting in the accents in the corners?

Don

With the blade still at the angle for the main parts I just put the fence on the other side (left) and set the blade to the correct depth.

[Mark Duksta]

John,

This is how I cut staves.


bevelSled1.jpg

bevelSled2.jpg

walnutAndMesquite.jpg

ashiko1.jpg

The jig is made so that it can cut compound or straight angles while leaving the saw blade perpendicular to the table.

Mark

[Frank Drew]

I think Bridge City Toolworks still sells a small booklet with all the angles you need for cutting straight and tapered staves.

[John Terefenko]

Thanks all for the ideas I am going to give something a try soon. Hopefully I can cut thin enough strips.

[Michael W. Clark]

John,

This is how I cut staves.




bevelSled2.jpg





The jig is made so that it can cut compound or straight angles while leaving the saw blade perpendicular to the table.

Mark

Mark, that is a sweet jig. I could see all kinds of uses for that one. Ever use it for tapered table legs? Nice work on your projects too!

[Mark Duksta]

Thanks Michael.

I've never used it for table legs although it would work if you wanted to taper two sides. I built this jig big enough to cut staves that are about 26 inches long so unless you make a bigger one it would only be big enough for something like a coffee table.

This is how I cut a four sided taper for some lamps. Again, the size of the this jig would limit how large of a leg you would be able to taper.
lampPost.jpg

The lamp shades here were made with the taper jig/sled and the posts where made with the old school taper jig.
twoLamps.jpg

[Rich Engelhardt]

This is how I cut staves.

Hmmm....
Super nice. It looks like it would also work very well to cut raised panel doors.

[Jim Finn]

I have a sled similar to Marks. Mine stays flat and I tilt the blade. I used it to make vases and stars.

[Mark Duksta]

Nice joinery on that star. Looks hard to do.