Leo & Frank -
Congratulations - you pierced the Cone of Density. Harder to do than you might think. I get it.
Thanks, guys.
Leo & Frank -
Congratulations - you pierced the Cone of Density. Harder to do than you might think. I get it.
Thanks, guys.
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
Using the drawer cams is a pretty safe bet system. Here are the items needed -
P9121445.jpg
The drawer cam in the center. It is fish scaled edge, this one measures 20 mm x 10 mm thick with a metal center to receive the screw. The metal center floats in the plastic housing which allows a degree of adjustment in any direction. I set one drawer cam in each stile of the drawer front or in some logical location on slab fronts.
But before I set the cams into the drawer front:
1) I bore the 10mm deep hole in the back of the drawer front with the forstner bit.
2) I then set the center locators (on the left) into the draw cam holes.
3) Place the drawer front with the center locators with their little tips sticking out (sometimes I need to pad the center locater with
a door bumper or the like) against the installed drawer box and spaced all around the opening to create the correct reveal.
4) Give the drawer front a good wack with my palm over each of the center locators.
5) I now have two little marks on my drawer box showing me where to bore my cam screw holes.
6) Bore out those holes.
7) Set the cams into the back of the drawer front. I like to press them in with a clamp rather than pounding them in with a hammer.
8) Attach the drawer front to the drawer box but don't tighten the screws yet - just secure.
9) Close the drawer, check the reveals, move the front as needed.
10) Open the drawer and securely tighten the screws to the cams. On big drawers I will add another few screws. On smaller drawers I just let the knob or pull provide the final location.
There - took longer to write than to do.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
so you still need extra screws through the inside of the drawer box? i was thinking that the handle or pull would be enough.
Frank, most often I will depend on the pull or a set of knobs to secure the front but sometimes that just isn't adequate. For example I am attaching drawer fronts that are 12" + tall x 34" wide and 11" + tall x 28" wide - I will most definitely add a screw in each corner for these beasty drawers. I set the cams so that they are roughly on or above the horizontal centerline of the drawer box (not of the drawer front as they are not always the same) but on such large fronts I prefer more fasteners. I may be overly concerned - a set of knobs or a long pull, + the cams will certainly hold the location of the drawer front but the corner screws just add to keeping the front and the drawer box together.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Sam, I just flip the center locator over on the adjustor so the point is in the hole and use that to tap them in. I had problems with hammering directly so was using a clamp as well till I tried it that way. The point will not hurt the threads.
Larry
Not sure I'm comfortable with the term "False" drawer fronts. There is nothing false about them. They are real, and they are in front. I've always heard them referred to as "applied" drawer fronts, versus their more complicated cousins "Integral" drawer fronts. Just semantics, but never try to sell a customer "false" anything, no matter how you attach them.
I'm the customer!
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
My point exactly. You don't want to distance your best customer over a minor semantics issue do you? Every household is different, at mine I'm the manufacturer, I may even be a beneficiary of any home improvements, but the real "customer" is my wife, and she can be a tough customer. Very literal, software engineer. 1's and 0's. Yes or no. True or false. So I'm careful with strong words like "false". Used to be you could apply a French name to anything and it would fly, you could even charge a bit more...like faux paint, but there seems to be an anti francophone sentiment of late that has negated that effect to some extent.
Do you know the difference between a pizza and a stone pie? About $3.
Oh, the actual point of my post was that I use the same drill bit and locator system that Sam posted, works well with careful set up, be sure to knock those little buttons in the right direction, with the threaded metal part up, otherwise the screws bottom out and they don't work well, and they sure don't come out easy. DAMHIK. On large "applied fronts" we usually use the buttons for alignment but back it up with a few wood screws from the back through the drawer box. The hardware may come on and off during painting and install, so we don't trust those for anything, and more often than not in my case that is done by others anyway.
Last edited by Peter Quinn; 09-15-2012 at 7:25 AM.
On the flipside Peter, when I want to talk a customer out of something that is going to be fugly, I will slip the term false in there even if I have to make something up.
" Oh, I know what you mean, I saw those when I was in Home Depot the other day."
That way at the end of the day we are both happy....
Larry