Mounting false drawer fronts

[Matt Meiser]

How does everyone do it?

I usually predrill the front for the pulls and put temporary screws into the box through those. Then I countersink permanent screws from the inside.

Just wondering if there's a better way.

[Sam Murdoch]

Actually that is a pretty smart system Matt. I like the adjustable drawer cams which involve more work but allow for future adjustability which is sometimes an issue from the shop to the real world install site. I don't normally fix the pulls until the cabinets are in their final resting place. Try as I might the shop isn't always as "perfect" as the installed home.

[phil harold]

I use a variation of this method (2+ screws)
http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031700wb.html

[Leo Graywacz]

I use shims of the correct size to space the front, then I screw from the rear. The pull is put on after everything is verified to be in the proper position.

[Rick Fisher]

I used to do it the way Leo does it but if the wooden front is the right color, I will shoot a couple 23ga headless pin's in behind where the handle will eventually be . ( within 1 mm of the holes) .. Ideally the pin ends get covered by the handle after its installed.. Its fast and allows me to open the drawer without the front moving at all ..

[Peter Quinn]

I do mostly inset and use the Blum idrawer front cams which allow you to tweak the location a bit for a proper reveal. Usually the hardware gets installed at the job site later by others, so that's not an option where I work.

[Larry Whitlow]

This is good stuff. Matt, I like your method. I have always aligned/mounted the faces using double stick turning tape. Then pull the drawer open and drive the screws. Mount the pulls last after all drawers are installed.

[Matt Meiser]

I always had trouble getting them in exactly the right place AND getting the tape stuck when I tried that method. Either the tape would stick before I got the front in place, or the tape would slip a bit when I moved things.

I've got 14 drawer fronts to install in the coming days since I finished spraying them last night. Installing the pulls ahead of time was something I didn't like about my method because of the potential for damage to them or walls/other cabinets, but it just occurred to me--I can drill the holes but not install the actual hardware--duh!

I do find it easier to mark and drill the holes with the fronts lying flat on the bench. I put pieces of tape in the approximate location, lay them out carefully, sometimes even set the knobs over the marks to verify the appearance, then drill the holes. Slow, but not worth making jigs since I only have at most 4 identical drawers. For the doors, I make a little jig that hooks on the corner.

[frank shic]

i use mainly tandemboxes from blum but in the future if i were to build a cabinet with false drawer fronts, i would use the drawer front adjusters as previously mentioned. hot glue and some shims might help also. hope we see the finishied product soon - which means you've got another year lol.

[Michael W. Clark]

I always pre-drill for the hardware before final sanding. I just use the drill press and fence, drill all the like fronts/doors with the same settings, then adjust as necessary. I've always used double stick tape, but I have had similar problems as you. I like the idea of attaching the fronts throught he hardware holes temporarily, then driving screws from inside the drawer box. Then you can remove the temporary screws and drill the drawer box from the front with a backer board to minimize tear out.

I'm about to install some false fronts myself, but no hardware on these. They have a routed profile to act as a pull. I guess I'll go the tape route on these.

[Kent A Bathurst]

OK - guys - on the Blum drawer front adjusters:

First - never heard of them before this thread. Cool. I'm going to be in this situation in 6 - 8 weeks.

Next - I read a blurb on a supplier's website, but I do not get it......what is going on that permits you to adjust left v right, and up v down? Seems like it just threads into a hole, but then..????

Mebbe I am just sitting in my Cone of Density today, but could you 'splain it to me?

[Leo Graywacz]

It is an escentric center so you have a certain amount of adjustability in all directions

[Rod Sheridan]

Matt, I drill slightly oversized handle holes and mount the handles just more than hand tight.

Then I close the drawer, check fit, wiggle the drawer front if required and then install the rear screws...........Regards, Rod.

[frank shic]

the blum drawer adjusters are placed in holes that allow a little play although you have to drill them on both the drawer front and the box and the surface has little bumps on it to allow some movement without losing your setting prior to drilling through the handle/knob hole for permanent fixing.

[Larry Edgerton]

Actually that is a pretty smart system Matt. I like the adjustable drawer cams which involve more work but allow for future adjustability which is sometimes an issue from the shop to the real world install site. I don't normally fix the pulls until the cabinets are in their final resting place. Try as I might the shop isn't always as "perfect" as the installed home.

Ditto. Larry