Toekicks -- real or plywood?

[Matt Meiser]

And another thing on my list...What does everyone use to trim out toekicks? Plywood? Real wood? I used plywood on my mom and dad's kitchen and there's a little wear on an outside corner. I'm probably the only one who notices and I think using a piece of 1/4 round molding or just a 3/4" square piece at the corner would prevent that. I've used real wood on all my bathrooms and laundry. Appearance wise, you can't tell at all.

[Jeff Duncan]

I don't like real wood as it will shrink seasonally potentially leaving a gap at the bottom....DAMHIKT Good quality plywood holds up very well and is nice and stable.

good luck,
JeffD

[Jeff Monson]

I'm with Jeff, I use plywood for my toe kicks.

[Michael W. Clark]

Another + for plywood. Adding corner trim as you say helps. I have also seen where on the exposed end of the cabinet that had frame and panel construction, the end stile nearest the front, was shaped to allow the plywood to butt into it and hide the edge. It is usually a gentle curve that goes back and sticks past the kick plate a 1/4"+ near the bottom.

Mike

[Peter Quinn]

I like real wood in kitchens where regular mopping might compromise plywood over time. Scribe it to the floor, gap it at the top wher it can't be seen, there is no movement issue, and it won't delaminates if it gets soaked. Any room with water in it has the potential to get soaked. In fact any room with a small boy potty training has the potential to get soaked. DAMHIK

[Sam Murdoch]

I like real wood in kitchens where regular mopping might compromise plywood over time. Scribe it to the floor, gap it at the top wher it can't be seen, there is no movement issue, and it won't delaminates if it gets soaked. Any room with water in it has the potential to get soaked. In fact any room with a small boy potty training has the potential to get soaked. DAMHIK

Exactly!

Back prime and if you really are concerned paint the bottom edge after scribing. Attach to a 3/4" false plywood base that is set up off the floor about 3/8". The solid wood finished toe need only be about 3/8" thick.

[David Kumm]

If the cabinets have wood face frames wood should be on the toe kick. You can spot ply a mile away when comparing it to the frame. If I don't want to waste a lot of nice wood I'll resaw 3/16 or 1/8 to ply and accomplish the same thing. Doesn't take that much effort. unless competing for business. Dave

[Cary Falk]

I like real wood for toe kicks. I think plywood looks cheap.

[Todd Burch]

3/4" real wood (same as face frame) with plenty of backing to make it super stiff.

[Don Selke]

Plywood as stated above, who looks at toe kicks?

[Jason Roehl]

Black.

[scott vroom]

I use solid wood for both stain and paint grade kicks. Cuts/mills better than plywood.

[Todd Burch]

If you can see the end of the toekick on the end of a run of cabinets... who wants to look at the edge of a piece of ply?

[scott vroom]

If you can see the end of the toekick on the end of a run of cabinets... who wants to look at the edge of a piece of ply?

You would most likely miter plywood outside corners.

[Phil Thien]

I vote solid wood. Because when we had out kitchen done (fairly high-end stuff), they used solid wood, and it has held up nicely.