Tapering Jig: What's better than hinged?

[Jim Neeley]

I was recently looking through a thread on a hinged taper jig where it was stated not to use one because they are too dangerous.

What is a viable alternative for tapering fairly-long stock (i.e. table leg) using a table saw? I'm aware of the use of a bandsaw but am curious about TS alternatives. I'm probably missing the obvious here. I've shied away from the hinged types in the past with the same concern.

[Jerry Thompson]

The new FWW has plans. I am going to build one.

[Mike Cutler]

A purpose built carrying sled.

[johnny means]

I use a board with a fence, a stop, and a clamp screwed to it. I have used the hinged type with good results and cant see whats so dangerous.

[Mike Heidrick]

CNC router

[Bill Huber]

I made one that rides on the fence so I can use it on wider boards like when you have a bad edge and need to straighten it.
Most are made to ride in the miter slot but that limits the width of the board you can use. Its not real fancy but it works very well and I have used it a lot.

[Mark Duksta]

Here are a few I made sometime ago.

This one makes regular tapers.
taperJig.jpg

This one tapers and bevels.
bevelSled2.jpg

This one is the old school taper jig I made. I still use it but now that I think about it. It is a little scary to use.
lampPost.jpg

[Mark Duksta]

Bill I like your design. I like that the fence is not connected to the hold downs.

[scott vroom]

What would Norm do?

[scott spencer]

I've got a Dubby taper sled that was given as gift....it's a lot nicer, and safer IMO than a cheap taper jig. Shouldn't be too bad to make.

[Steve Wurster]

Norm had 2 pieces of wood connected to a door hinge on one end and a sliding lock thing on the other. Just a homemade version of the typical jig. And no guard on his saw.

[Myk Rian]

I was recently looking through a thread on a hinged taper jig where it was stated not to use one because they are too dangerous.

Did you notice no reasons were given (until after the fact) for them being dangerous? That makes statements like that useless.

I made a taper jig specifically for the lighthouses I make. No setup.
Otherwise, I have 2 adjustable taper jigs, and I'm not afraid to use them.

[Carl Beckett]

I have used tapered jig guides on a number of projects. But think its a bad idea (without some care)

Often times these are nothing more than a wedge that goes between the workpiece and the fence. No problem as long as they stay securely together. If one or the other of the pieces moves forward (or back), then its either jamming the wood into the blade or causing it to be sloppy (no longer guiding the workpiece). I have experienced this first hand and could feel the blade loading up (was able to get everything stopped before binding, but no reason it couldnt have bound up at that point).

These days I use the taper sled approach. Much more comfortable.

If your simple tapered jig and workpiece are attached to each other carefully, it might not matter. But if trying to push them both through as separate items makes me nervous...

[Larry Edgerton]

I made a 9 foot jig kind of like Bills. I used three layers of Appleply laminated together and clamp rails about every 18"s. I use Destayco toggle clamps and just slip them in where I need them. Same with the stops.

It was too heavy so I cut a bunch of holes in it. The holes weigh less than the Appleply.

Larry

[Jim Finn]

I made this sled that I use as a taper jig. Works well for me. Photos of the sled and some of the projects I made using it.