Paring Chisels

[Dave Lehnert]

Like to get a Paring Chisel or two. What would be the best all round size to start with?
What is your favorite brand?

[David Weaver]

Where are you going to use it (like what joints, etc, how big are the joints, what do you build...)

Are you looking for western and can you rehabilitate a chisel? If so, I would go for something vintage with an octagonal bolster.

Pare with your bench chisels for a few weeks on joints where you expect you might use a paring chisel, that should give you an idea of what width you'd like.

[Dave Lehnert]

I do about any kind of woodworking project. Never know what project is next.

[bridger berdel]

get a few. I like old ones. 3/4" or 1" are probably my most used. then 1/4" and something wide, 2" or so.

[Sean Richards]

Like to get a Paring Chisel or two. What would be the best all round size to start with?
What is your favorite brand?

I use 1" and 3/4" the most. No modern so-called paring chisels are thin and flexible enough to be anywhere near as nice to use as a decent vintage paring chisel.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I haven't tried every new paring chisel, but I tend to agree with Sean - the flex of a vintage paring chisel is really nice, and the new ones I've used are just too thick and stiff. I have and old Marples I really liked, except it's developed this spot in the middle of it that always chips away - I tried grinding past it, and I get the same thing, it's just the spot has moved a hair to the right.

Unless you're doing pattern-making sort of stuff where you need a specific chisel to get into specific places, in my experience, something widish, like an 1" is nice, and covers most of what you need, then something smaller, like 1/4", to get into tighter places. Once you get down the hand for controlling it, something even wider, like 1 1/2" or 2" can work nicely for smoothing out grain or fairing a curve somewhere a plane can't reach, that you want smooth but don't care about flat. (I guess I recommend the same sizes Bridger does) Having more than one is a luxury worth chasing if you can, because these benefit from being *sharp*.

If you have a nice flexy paring chisel that doesn't hold an edge well, they're really advantageous for cleaning glue squeeze out sometimes as well.

I've used old Marples and Buck Brothers and liked them both a lot. Be careful if you're buying on the auction site - a lot of folks will title anything long as a paring chisel, when in reality a lot of them are just stout and thick firmer type chisels that happen to be long. No reason you can't use any long chisel for paring, but if you want the thin and slightly flexy paring chisel, these are not it.

[bob blakeborough]

No modern so-called paring chisels are thin and flexible enough to be anywhere near as nice to use as a decent vintage paring chisel.

Some are, but you will pay a solid price for them...

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Dave

I have two types of paring chisels. The first are small detail chisels, the Blue Spruce - also known as dovetail chisels. The blades are thin, the steel (although A2 and requiring a 30 degree bevel) takes and holds an excellent edge. The handles are beautifully shaped and altogether these chisels are very balanced. They are very useful when doing fine, delicate work. They are all about control, not power. Sizes 1/8" to 3/4". There is no point in going big with these chisels. I mainly use the 1/8, 3/6" and 1/4" for small dovetails.



The second type of parer I have are at the opposite end of the spectrum - long handled Kiyohesi Japanese slicks in sizes 1/4" to 1 1/2". There is no point in getting smaller than 1/4". In fact I rarely use this size here. These chisels are about power. The blades are quite thin for this type of chisel, but still much thicker than vintage Western paring chisels. Nevertheless they are very balanced and provide a great deal of feedback - which is what this type of chisel is all about. These blades are simply amazing for taking an edge. You will need to look at another maker, however, unless you are prepared to wait some years (I waited three).



I am going to add a third set of chisels. These are actually bench chisels but they are so well balanced and take and hold such a good edge that they deserve to be included: the new Veritas PM-V11 bench chisels (below are the O1 versions). They have nice long handles (for bench chisels), and are capable of both delicate and power work. True Jack of All Trades.



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Lehnert]

Thanks for all the info. Good info to know about older ones being more flexible.
I was going to ask about the Blue Spruce brand. They look very well made.
Any info on the sorby, They are available local.

[James Owen]

.......Any info on the sorby, They are available local.

The Sorbys tend to be tempered a bit on the soft side, with the resulting ease of sharpening and lack of edge holding..... It's good that they are easy to sharpen, because you'll be doing a lot of it..... Based on my experience with them, I can't recommend them.
If you're interested in English-made chisels, take a look at the Henry Taylor; much nicer, and better made than the Sorbys, IMO, for about the same money.

[Jim Neeley]

Dave,

You will not find the Blue Spruce chisels sold retail. They are made to order with the wood of your choice and a couple of handle length options. Dave Jeske makes great tools and is a great guy but you have to be willing to wait a few weeks to get them.

Jim

[Jim Matthews]

Did you see Bridger Bardel's post, below?

[John Coloccia]

The Sorbys tend to be tempered a bit on the soft side, with the resulting ease of sharpening and lack of edge holding..... It's good that they are easy to sharpen, because you'll be doing a lot of it..... Based on my experience with them, I can't recommend them.
If you're interested in English-made chisels, take a look at the Henry Taylor; much nicer, and better made than the Sorbys, IMO, for about the same money.

I have several Taylor paring chisels. They are fine chisels. You don't happen to live in New England, do you? There's a guy near Look Park in Massachusetts that has a LOT of old chisels and things. He seems to specialize in old tools. Rulers, dividers, watchmakers lathes, hundreds of chisels, scissors, other machinists tools, axes, etc etc etc. His shop is the size of a large bedroom, but is packed with an absolutely incredible assortment of stuff. You'll spend an hour in there.

[Sean Richards]

Derek,

When I was working with a patternmaker (a crusty old Yorkshireman who had served his time at Jaguar) some years ago if he had asked me to pass him a paring chisel and I had had handed him any of the chisels in your photos he would most likely have told me to stop playing silly buggers and pass him a paring chisel ...

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah. Changes to the pattern making trade because of modern innovation have probably actually had a big influence on what chisel type are made .I have some old core box gouges that are so long you could make two gouges out of them. But NO, I won't send you half. Sorry.