Do I Need a specialized Plywood Blade?

[Brent Ring]

I will be having a need to cut some expensive walnut plywood in the near future. I have a Grizzly G0623X slider and it has the scoring blade, but I have never used it. I put a Forrest WWII on it originally. It was put on over a year to go and split time with a ripping blade, so probably not perfectly sharp like when new. I am wondering if I need a specialty blade for plywood, etc. or not? If so, what are the recommendations?

Thanks

Brent

[Stephen Cherry]

Not bragging about it, but I occasionally cut plywood on my felder k975 with a rip blade (and the scoring blade), and it works ok, although I cut at a low feed rate. I also have a plywood blade that works OK also. Why not get your ww2 shappened and have at it?

[Lee Schierer]

I would use a new 60 tooth blade such as a Freud LU73M or 80 tooth LU80R blade. Either blade should give you excellent results cutting plywood. No matter what blade you decide to use, to insure that you get chip out free cuts, make sure you start your project with a new zero clearance insert for the blade you plan to use. You can also use masking tape over the cut line to help reduce chipping. Just remember to peel the tape toward the kerf as you peel it off to avoid lifting fibers.

[scott spencer]

A good Hi-ATB plywood blade will leave the cleanest cut and would certainly be helpful, but it's not required. Other techniques like scoring, ZCI, and painters tape can yield very nice results even with a decent 40T ATB blade like the WWII....if you do that, at least clean your WWII and give it a fighting chance. Otherwise, a good 60T to 80T Hi-ATB blade like the Infinity 010-080 or 010-060, Forrest Duraline or WWI, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10, etc., are about the best you can do.

[Tom Walz]

Depends on what kind of cut quality you want and what kind of chances you are willing to take.

I sell saw blades so I am prejudiced.

What you can do is do your material layout and figure where the 'drop' or 'scrap' or 'waste' will be then experiment with that. E.G. If you are going to have a one foot edge on a sheet then try cutting off a 2" strip and see what kind of cut you get.

Remember that plywood is wood panels, cross grained and glued. The glue is sticky and has fillers. The fillers are usually some sort of clay. Clay is very fine gravel.

Depending on the blade, the grade of carbide, the grind, etc.; the quality of cut will degrade as you use the blade.

Your test cuts are going to be the best cuts you will get. Your last cuts will be the worst.

As usual, Mr. Schierer’s remarks are both very accurate and entirely pertinent.

Tom

[Bruce Page]

I bought the Freud LU80R010 blade a few years ago when I needed to cut some expensive plywood. It did not disappoint.

[Dave Lewis]

I used an Everlast blade that has worked well...
http://www.everlastsaw.com/catalog.php?cat=328

# DFL 108030 used on maple plywood for a walk-in closet. I did not see any chipout from cutting on my Unisaw.

[David Kumm]

Adjust the scoring blade properly and the WWII will be just fine. I find I rarely take it off of my sliders. Dave

[Jeff Duncan]

Oh go ahead and buy a new blade...it's always fun to get that new package in the mail

Seriously though, I'd get yourself a decent blade for plywood and you'll be happier long run. I don't have a lot of experience with scoring blades but know they need to be calibrated exactly with the main blade. So may be easier to just toss a decent blade on there and get on with it. FWIW the WWII is a good blade for general purpose work, not nearly as good as a dedicated plywood blade. You'll see the most difference when cutting cross grain on the veneer. Sounds like your not doing a lot of work on your saw so the Freud blades mentioned upthread should serve your purposes very nicely.

good luck,
JeffD

[Peter Quinn]

Compared to the cost of walnut plywood, a good plywood blade is cheap, so yes, you need one. Put it on while you send out the ww 2 for sharpening!

[Larry Browning]

If you are cutting with the walnut veneer grain your WWII will do a fine job. Cross grain may be another story.
I usually cut plywood with a guided circular saw using a thin kerf plywood blade. These can be picked up cheap for $10 - $15. That is pretty much throw away pricing. Save your WWII for solid wood.

[Dan T Jones]

I am amazed at how effective painters tape is. Works for me with a WWII blade.

[Jim Becker]

Do you need one? No, but Since my two WW-II blades are in need of sharpening, I have the plywood blade on my slider right now and I have to say it gives impressive results on sheet goods, especially in combination with the scoring blade.

[Paul Johnstone]

Yes, you need a plywood blade.. Walnut plywood is expensive.. Put yourself in the position to succeeed, and get the right blade.
As a hobbyist, a good plywood blade will last a long time and easily "pay for itself" in nice cuts. Why compromise on the blade?

[Larry Prem]

You should get a plywood blade. You'll need it sooner or later.

I use the Forrest Duraline HI/AT blade for plywood cuts.
It produces zero tear out with a good zero-clearance table saw insert.