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Thread: Separating Double-Stuck Parts

  1. #1
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    Separating Double-Stuck Parts

    Whether I used too much double-sided tape, or the amount I used was extra strong, I'm having trouble separating some parts. Since they are thin parts and therefore subject to breakage, and I don't care to simply pry them apart, thus blemishing the surfaces, I'm searching for another way. Perhaps heat to soften the adhesive??? Perhaps some solvent? What say you? Thanks

    John Hollaway

  2. #2
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    Acetone will disolve the adhesive (as long as the parts you're trying to separate won't be affected by it). Have you tried twisting them apart (like an oreo cookie)? That usually works for me, but my pieces usually aren't fragile.
    "If it is wood, I will turn it."
    vor-tex: any activity, situation, or way of life regarded as irresistibly engulfing.

  3. #3
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    Heat has worked for me, but be careful not to scorch the wood if you use a heat gun. It's very slow and time consuming to get the heat into the joint without scorching the surface if the parts are thick. I found that a microwave is very effective if you have one large enough, as it will tend to heat from the center out. It should only take a minute or so for most parts this way. Either method requires experimenting to find the right temperature for what you are working on, and don't expect them to just fall apart. You will still need to do some prying, but it should be much easier. I have also thought about trying to freeze the parts, but haven't tried that yet. Theoretically, freezing should make the glue more brittle so the bond will fracture easily.

    Charley

  4. #4
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    I might try freezing. It loosens the bond, and thermal expansion causes things to come undone.

    Solvents - to me - sound like they would make a big mess.....

    The windshield guys use piano wire. Work it in between and then back and forth and it cuts through.

  5. #5
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    Thanks Kathy, Charles and Carl. All very plausible ideas, indeed. Each of the dozen tape-ups are of a size that will fit in both the microwave or the freezer. I'll try them out and let you know which works best. Again, thanks.

    John

  6. #6
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    I've used a bit of heat and monofilament fishing line to good effect. No prying needed.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  7. #7
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    I've had luck using a putty knife, if there's room to get in inserted. The Shurtape Ive been using begins to separate, then continues to separate with moderate, continuous pressure. (Bend the putty knife a little.) After a couple of minutes, there's usually enough room to insert a piece of pegboard. Advancing (walking) the pegboard continues to separate the tape - just wait for the tearing to complete. On long boards, I've used several small pieces of pegboard to keep the tape separated as I advance the first piece. In a few minutes, the most problematic boards have come apart. This has worked on cypress (softwood) and oak without marring the surface. If you get impatient and use too much force, marring can occur.

  8. #8
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    Although I have no fool proof way to accomplish this task, I do have some thoughts.


    1. Can you use a tape that is not as strong. I know that they have different strengths for double sided tape for turners, but there are numerous types of double sided tape.
    2. Experiment with the tape to make it weaker... sprinkle a little sawdust on it, for example.
    3. Use less tape
    4. Use something other than tape (like Elmers School Glue and paper).


    I considered the last item based on this post

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ue-up-guestion

    Rich Engelhardt responded with a method I did not know, and neither did Bill Huber (Bill posed the initial question). Try a few test pieces and see if this works better for you.

  9. #9
    I use a less aggressive solvent like mineral spirits. Apply it to the exposed edge and give a few minutes for it to work. Insert a putty knife and try to pry open the joint a little. Apply more solvent, wait, pry, and repeat. Take it slow and don't force it.

  10. #10
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    I've used just mono fishing line (40# test or better) to cut the tape into the 2 sticky parts. No heat needed. Just hold the items and pull the mono back and forth like a saw. Note that this does require 3 hands if your parts are small..... After seperating them you can roll up the sticky residue and toss it.

    Good luck!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gipson View Post
    I've had luck using a putty knife, if there's room to get in inserted.
    That's what I use.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  12. #12
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    Again, thanks very much to everyone who responded. I'll let you know how I make out.

    John

  13. #13
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    In addition to piano wire and fishing line, you could also try dental floss. This is what people use who remove the badges from their vehicles.

  14. #14
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    In line with this, what is the best way to get the sticky part of the leftover tape off?
    Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Hollaway View Post
    Whether I used too much double-sided tape, or the amount I used was extra strong, I'm having trouble separating some parts. Since they are thin parts and therefore subject to breakage, and I don't care to simply pry them apart, thus blemishing the surfaces, I'm searching for another way. Perhaps heat to soften the adhesive??? Perhaps some solvent? What say you? Thanks

    John Hollaway
    John you did not mention what kind of material it is but here is my suggestion. Use a putty knife or similar and try to start is between the 2 pieces at the same time introduce some vegetable oil to also loosen the glue bond.

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