picture frame clamps

[Robert Murphy]

I was wondering what preferences you guys had on miter joint clamps, specifically for making picture frames. Is the Bessey strap clamp on woodcraft @ $45 worth the price? A band clamp seems like it might be the way to go. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[Phil Thien]

Well, I haven't found a band clamp that isn't overkill and a bit of a PITA for picture frames.

So I made four corner blocks, and use a piece of thin rope. At first I was using a "trucker's knot" to tie the rope. I've learned that just putting a loop on one end of the top allows me to run the free end through the loop and pull it snug. I then take the extra and go back around the blocks in the other direction and tuck it in.

Works great, cheap, doesn't get in the way.

[Kevin Groenke]

Strap clamps work OK, they are a bit of a pain as Phil indicated. If your miters are accurately cut, masking tape around the corners is enough to hold the frame together until the glue dries and you can add some reinforcement (if you need more pressure, shrink wrap works great after the masking tape). The end grain of a miter joint really isn't enough to hold a frame together on it's own, so biscuits, splines, bowties or some other intervention is required.

We have both and I like the Wolfcraft ratcheting and spring-retracting strap clamp much better than the Bessey.

tvbandclamp.jpg

[Robert Murphy]

Yes, I will be using the splined method for now. I've built the jig and have done a test joint on some scrap wood. I think it's a great accent and if I choose not to accent, I will most likely spline with the same wood type or use an alternative joint. I see what you mean about not needing much tension against the joint. I just held the test piece together for a little bit and let it dry. I would like the insurance of having extra clamping force available in case every joint isn't perfect all the time and can be corrected with a little extra clamping. I may try to build something. Thanks for the comparison Kevin.

[Carpenter Mark]

If your going to make frames on a regular basis, look into getting a set of spring miter clamps. Been using them for years, very effective and simple to use. I have the Ulmia's which were made in Germany and are a little pricey, but theres several different brands that look as if they'll work as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Ulmia-Miter-Cl.../dp/B000MCFZ06

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...clamp-set.aspx

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11060

http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?...ter_clamps.htm

[Jeremy Brant]

I have this one from rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&site=ROCKLER. It's worked pretty well but is more size limiting than the other types.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I do frames for two artists and I've been using this set from Lee Valley for a long time

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...62&cat=1,43293

They pull everything square and I use plain 1/4 x 20 threaded rod for frames bigger than the kit provides for. The rod is cheaper than the add on from LV.

[Troy Turner]

I have one of those X things where you draw it together with a bolt. Used it a few times, but went and bought a Bessey strap at Lowe's. It was only $30. Yeah, it can be a bit tricky for small frames, but 8x10 and larger it works great. Once you use it to dry fit eveything, just unscrew the handle to release pressure. Apply glue, and cinch it back up. You can adjust the miters if you need to while it's clamped.

[Gary Breckenridge]

For picture frames up to 11 by 14 I use giant
rubber bands.

[glenn bradley]

I also tried the X-thing. I also have the Bessey, also got it at Lowe's for about $30. As mentioned the strap clamp works well for larger frames. For smaller frames, tape of rubber bands as Gary mentions work best for me. I generally have better success glueing up two sets of a short and a long side and then gluing the two "L's" together. One thing seems to remain a constant regardless of the method; if the parts don't fit perfect during dry-fit, clamping is going to be an issue.