Hammer A3-31 Dimensions and Basement Move Help

[David Hou]

Hello everyone - I'm hoping to purchase a used 2011 revised Hammer A3-31 and had some questions in regards to its overall dimensions. I'm looking at this specifically because I have to move the unit into my basement shop which is through a bulkhead.

It seems that either the dimensions have changed, particularly in regards to the "overall width" of the unit or I am reading it incorrectly. Based on the users manual of the older units, the old width was 570mm with the newer units listing at 790mm. All the doorways in my home, including the door into the basement are only 31'' or so max, and realistically only 29'' or so since the door does not open greater than 90 degrees, unless the door is taken off its hingest to gain the full 31'' width. Seems strange that there would be such a drastic change in this one measurement, and I have not heard of any others having problems with entryway width so I'm hoping that I'm looking at this incorrectly! Is it as simple as the blade guard resulting in the increased width between the listed "machine dimensions" and "machine including packaging" dimensions?

There also seems to be an overall decrease in the weight - which will be great with moving the unit, but curious where the weight loss is coming from. I'm hoping someone can clarify this for me so I can nail down this purchase!

I also wanted to see if folks who have moved similar could offer any suggestions on how best to do it. From the outside bulkhead door, its about 6 steps down into the basement. I've also included some pictures to help clarify. Thanks for everyone's help!

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[Dave Keay]

David I recently purchased this unit with the helical head I took a couple of quick measurements
LOA is 60"
Width from front to back with the fence mounted is 21" this would assume you have the fence all the way to the front I think the 31" is with the fence at the back plus the fence extension that sticks out a few inches you will have no problem getting this unit through a 31" door. However probably best to remove the fence unit and guard before attempting to move it downstairs.

I am not sure about the weight but you should be able to get all these dimensions and weight from the Hammer web site.

[Luther Oswalt]

I'm not sure, but it seems to me the Hammer web site has those on it in the on line manual. If not go to the site and get their Castle De. phone number , call them, then ask for Jesse. He is a very helpful guy ....
Leo

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi David, the unit will fit through your doorway with lots of room to spare.

The fence mounting has changed, which means the unit is deeper with the fence in the full rearward position. remove your fence before you move the machine.

The weight difference is the tables, they are lighter than the previous version, no issue at all, I was lucky enough to have both versions for 3 months in my shop.

The newer machine works just as well, and is much more convenient to use as the fence doesn't have to be disturbed when converting from jointer to planer.

In addition having both tables stay parallel, move in tandem, and have spring assist for the weight of the tables makes them MUCH easier to move from jointing to planing and back again.

As to moving it, put the machine on a plywood base with casters, put some 2 X 8 on the basement stairs with a 2 X 2 on the outside edge to keep the machine from rolling off the edge.

Put a couple of cross member 2 X 4 under the ramps with screws at the stair tread so the ramp doesn't move apart, or slide down the stairs.

Winch it down gently, no issues.

As to the bulk head, use the shipping pallet with a piece of ply on top to make an artificial landing if you need...........You're going to love this machine.......Rod.

[Erik Loza]

David, I have no personal experience with your particular machine but if I am not mistaken, it is similar in design to our FS30 Smart, which I DO have a lot of experience in moving around. If it were me, I would dismount the jointer tables, then lower the chassis down as Rod has described. What I find is that compact jointer/planers (the "common" 12-inch Euro-designed ones, anyway...) tend to be rather top-heavy and due to this, can be a bit sketchy once you start to move them down any sort of grade. Imagine trying to move a bandsaw down your stairs while it is still vertical. Much easier if it were lying down, right? Same principle.

I would dismount the cast iron tables (make a note of how many shims the factory used on each side, if any...), carry them down individually, then just lower down the chassis with block and tackle. The chassis is heavy but the center of gravity is very low and the dimensions are compact, so there is virtually no risk of the machine tipping over or damaging your walls/jambs on the way down. Yes, you will have to remount and re-adjust the jointer tables once the machine is in place but (IMHO) that is preferable to wrestling with it, fully assembled, down the grade.

Hope this helps and best of luck with the plan.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Hou]

Thanks everyone for the moving advice and Dave for taking a look at the dimensions! Hoping to get this machine this weekend and fired up by next week (after getting 220!)

[Curt Harms]

<snip>
I would dismount the cast iron tables (make a note of how many shims the factory used on each side, if any...), carry them down individually, then just lower down the chassis with block and tackle. The chassis is heavy but the center of gravity is very low and the dimensions are compact, so there is virtually no risk of the machine tipping over or damaging your walls/jambs on the way down. Yes, you will have to remount and re-adjust the jointer tables once the machine is in place but (IMHO) that is preferable to wrestling with it, fully assembled, down the grade.

Hope this helps and best of luck with the plan.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

I did what Erik recommends with a Jet JJP-12 in a similar situation, down a bulkhead to a basement. I was concerned that the tables would be 'out of kilter' when remounted but no apparent issues. I can joint two edges, butt 'em together and no light gets through. With the jointer tables removed the center of gravity is low and the 'package' is nice and compact. I just rented an appliance cart and had some help. One thing I would have done differently though. If using an appliance cart, strap the base top AND bottom. The appliance cart only had a strap near the top and the bottom of the machine wanted to slide off the cart.