Why buy a bandsaw when you can build one? Pre-Gloat

[John Hart]

More power...oooh oooh oooh

[Tim Morton]

I ordered a 1.5HP Leeson 113938 motor from ebay tonight. $180 shipped NIB.



PS...this thread is showin incorrectly in my firfox browser, I am only getting some of the replays. They all show up in my safari browser...I wonder If I am missing any in other threads?

[Tim Morton]

So cost wise i am here:

14" Delta bandsaw (top only) $395 shipped
6" Delta riser Kit $79 shipped
1.5HP Leeson motor $180 shipped.
Rockler 18 amp power switch $14 shipped (already have it)
Delta mobile base and wood bandsaw stand $0 (already have everything to make this part)

Still need to get a 2" pulley and link belt..(guessing $50 or less)

Grand total will be a tad over $700 I don't see another bandsaw that is better than this for under $700....now I just need a weekend to put it all together. If anyone has built a bandsaw stand i would love to hear about it. I'm thinking it will be not much more than a very sturdy box with a door and some vent holes for the motor. I will build the mobile base right into it using the parts from my old delta mobile base.

So far no surprises. I was at woodcraft today and saw a 14" delta x5 with riser kit and mobile stand and it was over $1400 with tax and I don't see how it was going to be any better. The salesman was not impressed with my comparison

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan in Md.

[Tim Morton]

I am building the box today using MDF and I have a motor mount/link belt question. I planned on either building a small box inside the box for the motor to sit on, or possibly build a divider and hang the motor sideways as is the case with the OEM delta closed box. But in reading he delta manual I see that some bandsaws are actually using a hanging system for the motor ala a contractor saw. Is this something I need to investigate further, or can I just build the thing using a ridgid mount and take a link out from time to time if needed>

[Scott Loven]

I also have one on order from Redmond, should be here by Wednesday or so!
Scott

[Tim Morton]

I also have one on order from Redmond, should be here by Wednesday or so!
Scott

Thats what they told me too...so how are you completing yours?

[Tim Morton]

r possibly build a divider and hang the motor sideways as is the case with the OEM delta closed box

I think I have answered my own question. I am designing it now to mount the motor on a side wall divider. But i am going to make a channel for a mounting board to slide up and down on and I will have a couple of bolts that will squeeze it together at the right tension. If the belt loosens i can let the mounting board drop down a bit and retighten. Might be over kill...but i would not think you guys would accept anything less

[Jim Becker]

Tim, you definitely need a method for tensioning the belt, so a pivoting mount that you can secure is likely what you want to make. Be sure to use some scrap plywood to provide secure mounting points for the same as the MDF doesn't have the same strength.

One nice thing about using the MDF for your cabinet is that you can round the corners a little, fill in the fuzzy areas with spackle and then paint to match the saw. It will look like metal if you wish!

[Tim Morton]

Tim, you definitely need a method for tensioning the belt, so a pivoting mount that you can secure is likely what you want to make. Be sure to use some scrap plywood to provide secure mounting points for the same as the MDF doesn't have the same strength.

One nice thing about using the MDF for your cabinet is that you can round the corners a little, fill in the fuzzy areas with spackle and then paint to match the saw. It will look like metal if you wish!

I think of tensioning as it is done on my contractor saw..where the weight of the motor is being carried by the link belt. But on my jointer the motor is fixed to a flat shelf...hence "no tensioning". I can envision a "semi-tensioning system"....but does the weight of the motor need to be carried by the belt to qualify as "tensioning" as you describe?

I am going to round off the corners and add a base trim piece to replicate the original base, and paint it to match the color of the bandsaw. And back in the "day" I used to build highend speaker systems for cars so I know the lack of holding with MDF. Although using my new impact driver(hidden gloat), i am finding that I am getting really close to what would be considered good gripping....but for the motor mount I am using plywood anyway. i will try and get some pictures posted later tonight to clear up this confusing description of the motor mount.

[Jim Becker]

Tim, if I recall clearly, the motor in the Jet 14" saw I used to own was on a platform that could be adjusted for tension and locked down, but it's been awhile and I could be mistaken. The weight of the motor would not be sufficient in this application, IMHO...you need to be able to get it pretty tight for good performance.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, if I recall clearly, the motor in the Jet 14" saw I used to own was on a platform that could be adjusted for tension and locked down, but it's been awhile and I could be mistaken. The weight of the motor would not be sufficient in this application, IMHO...you need to be able to get it pretty tight for good performance.

That's good to hear, because even if I'm not explaining myself that well..Using this design I plan on pushing the motor down until the belt is good and tight, and then locking it in place to hold that tension. And as the belt loosens up i can then loosen the clamping system and push the motor tighter and retighten.

[Jerry Olexa]

Tim I am impressed!! thats quite a project and good for you!! (Great website also). I don't have your "daring" attitude to plunge in and build a tool from almost scratch. Of course, you're probably spending some of your $ winnings from the RedSox and Patriots last year and last night, the Celtics blew out the Pacers. Tim, seriously, I respect your effort!! Great ingenuity! Keep us unworthy spectators posted!

[Tim Morton]

Tim I am impressed!! thats quite a project and good for you!! (Great website also). I don't have your "daring" attitude to plunge in and build a tool from almost scratch. Of course, you're probably spending some of your $ winnings from the RedSox and Patriots last year and last night, the Celtics blew out the Pacers. Tim, seriously, I respect your effort!! Great ingenuity! Keep us unworthy spectators posted!

I'm pretty beat from just building the base yesterday and I haven't even tried wrestling with the bandsaw yet. its still too early to see if I made the right decision. I was reading the "rockler" gloat thread just now and he spent about the same money for a jet 16 incher.......but I don't have a rockler near me, so that was not an option...and I hope this turns out to be just as nice a bandsaw.

Thanks for the encouragement!!!

[James Carmichael]

I think 1.5 would be sufficient, but, HP is something you can never have too much of. Since you're DIYing your BS, why not also go with Iturra's high-speed pulleys. They will increase blade speed to 4000 fpm, which will not only cut faster, but produce a better finish. If you go that route, your blade choices should probably be a Bi Metal or Carbide.

You might do better shopping a local motor repair shop, at least you would save the shipping.