Why buy a bandsaw when you can build one? Pre-Gloat

[Scott Loven]

Mine came in Monday, in perfect shape. The box was strapped to a pallet and then stretch wrapped. Redmond quoted me a price of $117 for delivery to Iowa. I checked with our shipping guy at work and he was able to get it delivered to me at work for $75 by one of the trucking companies that we use. He told me that I can ship anything up to 500 pounds in or out of here to anywhere in the US for the same price. I have a couple of RAS's that I am thinking of selling that way if I ever get around to it.
Scott

[Bill Lewis]

You know, since you guys are building these saws, there is one thing you might want to consider doing. Add Cone Pulleys to the setup to have allow for different saw speeds. After all you have to build the motor support and tensioning part anyway. It comes in real handy to slow it down to cut (ferrous) metals. I'm looking to do this with my saw one day (Delta 14").

[Tim Morton]

For anyone who has installedthe riser block, any hints? I was thinking that lifting the bandsaw to the stand during the install would make it a one man job? Is this possible or do i needto line up a neighbor? I already determined I need to buy TWO wrench's I don't have, but I will suck that up and call it a tool purchase.

[Jim Becker]

Tim, while I did my riser installation (on the Jet saw I used to own) by myself, it was difficult and I don't recomment it. That upper casting is both heavy and awkward...and you DON'T want to drop it...on your foot or on the floor. Having a second person to help you lift and balance things will make the installation go smoother and safer.

[Glen Blanchard]

For anyone who has installed the riser block, any hints?

Tim - One big suggestion. I would bet that it will work on your Delta the same way it did on my Jet. When you remove the original blade guard (by sliding the rod down and out) BE SURE to have the new rod in place RIGHT BEHIND the original so that AT NO TIME is there no rod in the holder. I have been told that there are some bearings in there that will indeed slip out if you merely remove the original rod with the intention of sliding in the new one as your next step. This will greatly complicate the upgrade.

I hope that makes sense.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, while I did my riser installation (on the Jet saw I used to own) by myself, it was difficult and I don't recomment it. That upper casting is both heavy and awkward...and you DON'T want to drop it...on your foot or on the floor. Having a second person to help you lift and balance things will make the installation go smoother and safer.

I have everything in place to assemble this thing over the weekend, motor is here as is the riser block and new blade. I will paint the base in the morning so i can turn it over and set it in the mobile base. Then I will clean up the shop and get a neighbor over once I understand the install procedure of the riser block. I'm getting pretty excited about all this, I know its only a 14" plain jane bandsaw...but still its cool to me.

Tim - One big suggestion. I would bet that it will work on your Delta the same way it did on my Jet. When you remove the original blade guard (by sliding the rod down and out) BE SURE to have the new rod in place RIGHT BEHIND the original so that AT NO TIME is there no rod in the holder. I have been told that there are some bearings in there that will indeed slip out if you merely remove the original rod with the intention of sliding in the new one as your next step. This will greatly complicate the upgrade.

<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> I hope that makes sense. __________________
Regards,

Glen

Thanks for that heads up, I do remember reading that once before about someones experience dropping a bearing. I will make sure I understand completely what you are saying before i remove anything. It seems that I do not remove that post until after the saw is back up on the new riser block, but i am still reading about this install.

[Tim Morton]

I seem to have miscalulated the placement of my motor and I have it about an 1" forward of the "left to right" center of the bandsaw if I were to center the bandsaw on the base. I don't think this will be a problem, but its giving me something to think about while I let the paint dry. Somehow I got confused and measured wrong. I have to decide If I want to position the driven pulley dead center on top of the motor pulley, or push the bandsaw back an inch or so to center it on the base. I think i am going to center the bandsaw cecause I can't imagine why it would affect anyting to have the pulley set back . Obviously they will be flush and coplaner where it matters. removing the motor at this point is not practical. Just rambling outloud. I am on schedule to have the saw on the base tomorrow. I did a paint match at the hardware store and to match the finish they sold me a P&L oil based gloss. I must say its a dead match if anyone is interested.

[Tim Morton]

I have a riser block question. Putting my riser block on the base unit using the guide pins does not let the riser block sit completely flush on the saw. I did the stupid thing and tapped it home with a wood block and hammer, but I still have a tad of daylight. I'm guessing the pins are a semi-important part of keeping the saw from twisting. Not sure if i can get the riser block off easily, not am I sure that the bolt will snuff it up tight, I'm going out to breakfast and waiting for your help. How can I get the riser block off without causing any damage?

[Jim Becker]

Tim, use a rubber mallet to slowly work it free. And then sand off all the paint from the four mating surfaces so you hopefully get better alignment and a tight joint. You should have no gaps when you tighten the bolts up.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, use a rubber mallet to slowly work it free. And then sand off all the paint from the four mating surfaces so you hopefully get better alignment and a tight joint. You should have no gaps when you tighten the bolts up.

Score!!! Thanks Jim..I had inspected it with these old man eyes and did not think it needed sanding, I guess it would be wise to sand it as SOP. it now sits flush and I am off to eat in a better frame of mind. Eggs benidict over hash sounds about right.

[Bill Lewis]

Funny, I was going to warn you about this very thing Tim, I too had a bur on my riser that needed filing to get it to sit flush. Sorry I spoke too late.

[Tim Morton]

Funny, I was going to warn you about this very thing Tim, I too had a bur on my riser that needed filing to get it to sit flush. Sorry I spoke too late.

Anything you want to warn me about before I hoist the top up and on the riser pins? Other than lift with your knees.

[Tim Morton]

Its up on the stand and bolted in place, so far so good. I scratched up the base coat pretty good but i will repaint the base tonight once I am done. Jim suggested a second person to help with the riser install. I thought it was light enough to tackle myself, but had LOML standing by in case. Glad she was there as it is very important like he said to have somone hold and balance the machine when tightening the bolt. Another funny story....she asked me what i would be using the bandsaw for and I told her it owuld be to cut curved radius's(sp) on things like the garden bench she wanted me to build. She looked down at my jigsaw and asked why I couldn't just used that, rolling her eyes again she walked away. here are a few pictures to look at while I finish up the install.

[Tim Morton]

kind of getting complete....

[Tim Morton]

one more picture