Cedar lined chest

[Charlie Ross]

Has anyone built a Cedar lined blanket chest? I’m making the outside of the chest out of Walnut, and the inside out of Cedar. I’ve never done anything like this, and I’m a little unsure of myself, especially since I’m making this for someone else. My problem is; I’m not sure about what I’m going to do to attach the liner and walnut outside to make one chest? Would I have to worry about expansion/contraction if I glue, or brad-nail the cedar liner to the outside box? Appreciate any ideas… Thanks!!

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

[Dell Littlefield]

The last one I built, I installed a removable cedar bottom and made the sliding tray from cedar. This allows removal and resanding later to restore the aromatic quality.

[Charlie Ross]

The last one I built, I installed a removable cedar bottom and made the sliding tray from cedar. This allows removal and resanding later to restore the aromatic quality.

Thanks Dell, They want me to build it with all 6 inside walls cedar. I like the idea, but I don’t know how I would make all 6 walls removable, and also keep it solid? I also want to cap the top of the cedar boards with walnut at the top of the open box. I hope that makes sense… Hard to explain without pictures, sorry.

[Jim Rimmer]

I built one 40+ years ago. I made cedar sandwiches with the walnut in the middle and then resawed it to end up with two cedar boards with walnut on one side. If you have a band saw that can handle it, that would be one approach.

[Randy Henry]

I've built about 30 of these, with raised panel sides from Oak, Walnut, Cherry, etc., with the cedar lining. The borg carries the 4" cedar tongue and groove that is 1/4" thick. I use that, although I do not get it at the borg, my supplier sells it for about half of the borg's. I use a pin nailer to secure it to the sides. I take care to measure where I shoot the pins, as to not have one blow out of a profile. On the top row, I pin and glue it, to make a nicer looking seam where it joins the hardwood. On my trays, I just rip a couple strips of the cedar and glue/pin it to the existing cedar, to hold the tray, without having any issues.

[Charlie Ross]

Resawing sounds like a good idea, but I’m building it like Randy with the raised panel sides. Randy, I think I’ll be building like you explained and be careful not to blow the brads out the face of the box. I already have the ¾” cedar; but that should be ok.

[Charlie Ross]

I've built about 30 of these, with raised panel sides from Oak, Walnut, Cherry, etc., with the cedar lining. The borg carries the 4" cedar tongue and groove that is 1/4" thick. I use that, although I do not get it at the borg, my supplier sells it for about half of the borg's. I use a pin nailer to secure it to the sides. I take care to measure where I shoot the pins, as to not have one blow out of a profile. On the top row, I pin and glue it, to make a nicer looking seam where it joins the hardwood. On my trays, I just rip a couple strips of the cedar and glue/pin it to the existing cedar, to hold the tray, without having any issues.

I’m back to my Cedar chest again. I’m looking to put “soft down lid support” on this chest and ran into a problem. The “soft down lid support” hardware only can be used on a chest that has a ¾” back. I see there are hinges, like the (Rockler, 6”Medium-duty Quiet Action Lid Support) that may be ok, but I was wondering if anyone has used these hinges or any other ones with a heavy lid like my 1 ½” thick x40”x24” deep lid?

[Carl Beckett]

I have done three chests with a Rockler lid supports. These were all fairly good size chests - say a top 18" x 36" - oak, walnut, maple. In my experience these hinges are marginal in design and did not hold up well over time. I would not use them again. (Having said that I dont have an answer on what to use....)

[Mike Cutler]

Charlie

I know the thread has been going for a few months now, but here is a chest I built 6 years ago. I didn't use soft closures though, as none seems adequate. I had thought about using rear window/hatch shocks from a car, but didn't

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...unk&highlight=

[Lee Schierer]

Thanks Dell, They want me to build it with all 6 inside walls cedar. I like the idea, but I don’t know how I would make all 6 walls removable, and also keep it solid? I also want to cap the top of the cedar boards with walnut at the top of the open box. I hope that makes sense… Hard to explain without pictures, sorry.

Attach your caps with screws and drop in the bottom. The walls set on the bottom. Cut 45's on the edges of the ends and sides and slide them down into the box the miters will hold them all in place. The caps will hold the sides down and hide the gap.